Starting off 2023 with a selection of new stuff to try from Laithwaites. The last year was punctuated by these ace boxes of discovery, and I’m more than happy to start the first days of January delving into the delights of the new delivery. As usual, there’s the ones that I have to scratch my head a bit – it is either a label I’ve never heard of, a blend that’s something new, a region, or just a weird name! hahaha.
I start by dipping my toes into the popular style that is rosé – Leconfield La Sevillana Rosé 2021. A rosé made from Merlot grown in one of Australia’s great wine regions – Coonawarra. A gorgeously pale watermelon pink in the glass. Delicately perfumed with melon, pink apple, redcurrant, strawberry, and a note of crushed rose petals. Dry and crisp with mouthwatering acidity blowing through the palate dripping with crunchy summer berries. There’s a supple textural finish, with some creamy vanilla yoghurt flavours to round out that initial brightness, and have you reaching for another glass. Elegant presentation, with a tall, designer bottle to brighten any summer lunch table. 90pts
Then we have a couple of big reds from a label in Italy – Pillastro Puglia Rosso 2021. A classic example of a big, chunky red from southern Italy. I’m not sure what the blend is, but it feels warm, ripe and fleshy. Spiced plum, blueberry and raspberry. A richness to the structure with soft velvety tannins and a smooth texture, make it not only an easy-going red, but with enough interest to step beyond your basic, fruit-forward quaffer. The finish has a little pepper and good length. 89pts
Following smartly on its heels is another – Pillastro Susmaniello 2020. Now, I have tried this wine before, and this re-visit does confirm what I’d liked about it first time around. It comes in a substantial bottle that echoes the stature of the wine within. A smoky, oaky perfume that is loaded with flavour and spice. Dense, up-front and robust. Cherry, black plum and rosehip with a touch of good bitterness that serves to offset the ripe intensity. Look for a decent, lengthy finish with sweet and sour nuances coming back in. 91pts
Back to the Aussie wines with the creative names – with Marauding Vintners Captain Cabernet Sauvignon 2020. This is from Langhorne Creek, which is a region of South Australia that I have heard of – south east of Adelaide. A dense dark claret colour in the glass, with a perfume that speaks of plum, cassis, cedar, leather, graphite and sour cherry. Full bodied and with plenty of oak influence – vanilla, smoky cigar box and pencil shavings. A bold wine, but with fairly relaxed tannins and a sweeter liquorice-scented mid-palate. A green herbal note comes in at the finish. Good stuff, easy to like. 91pts
The final wine took me back to Europe – Martinez Bujanda Rioja Crianza 2016 from Spain. Rioja is often not my thing – too much dusty oak and raspy tannin, but this one is the Crianza style, which pulls back on the process that leads to the expressions I’m not partial to. Still made from Tempranillo (which I do like) – aged for two years, with one year in barrel – leading to a wine with more freshness and zip. Spicy, with cloves and cinnamon on the nose, and with a deep, ripe ‘redness’ to the palate. Not just fruit, but plenty of savoury character – tomato, capsicum and pumpkin. A bright acid line and enough grip of tannin to give interest – a well-rounded and ready-to-go wine with a great lingering finish. 92pts
