Yes, I know. This is becoming a regular thing now! But there is quite a lot to discover in the world of Laithwaites, and these mixed boxes are quite addictive! This time I’d manage to squeeze in a few bottles from a selection they have from New Zealand – as well as some other treats, from near and far.
We start with whites – a riesling from Marlborough. The Doctors’ Riesling 2020 is made by Forrest in Marlborough, a naturally lower alcohol wine (at a modest 9%) from one of the low-alcohol pioneers. A very pale green-straw colour in the glass, with a pop of crisp aromatics. Granny Smith apple, orange zest, honey an lemon sherbert on the nose. Light, clean and agile – dancing across across the palate. Well balanced sweetness (34.5 g/l RS) and a zing of juicy acidity giving a lovely, intricate balance. More stone fruit flavours and a stony minerality develop, adding a nudge of complexity to what is a fairly straightforward, easy-to-like, food-friendly wine. A succulent finish with a little pithy drying. Very good. 91pts
Keeping with the New Zealand theme, I moved on to reds, and a Monowai Merlot 2020. Not a label that’s as well known as I think it should be – their Chardonnay featured in the first of those Hawke’s Bay Annual Chardonnay Selections for example. This is a bright and fresh Merlot, from a classic vintage. A burst of summer berries is framed by well-judged oak, giving a spicy vanilla undertow. This is classy – an elegant, tight expression that steers its ripe fruit in the right direction – robust and generous. An elongated, sweetening finish. 91pts
Happy to get a Pinot Noir in the box – especially one from Te Muna Road in Martinborough – Big Sky Pinot Noir 2020. A deep crimson in the glass, with a herbaceous, bloody nose that shows both some freshness and earthiness. Cranberry, bramble, cloves, pepper and a violet, rose petal floral lift. Lots of savouriness, with yellow beetroot, fennel, olive and crushed-stone minerality. Texturally smooth and with fine, supple tannins. Finishes long, with a gentle harmony as the elements meld together. 93pts.
We head back across the ditch for the next two wines – The RedHeads Nobs and Snobs 2018 is a Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon blend. The Malbec contributes an inky purple to the colour and a rustic depth to the flavours in the glass. A deeply dark-fruited example, with a characterful minerality and smoky intensity that reminded me of some South American versions I’d tried recently. Plenty of tannin on show here and some muscle to the palate. Blueberry, mint, capsicum, cassis and rhubarb all feature in my tasting notes here! 91pts
Kilikanoon Settlement Block Shiraz 2020 from the Clare Valley – a dark ruby purple in the glass, with a black-fruited perfume of boysenberry and blackcurrant, pepper and sage. Following through onto the palate, with smoky spice, green herbs, and delicious chewy, forward tannins. Some interesting phenolics here, with a bitterness of raspberry seed – in a good way. There’s also a flavour of cape gooseberry, blood orange at the end. Not your usual Aussie Shiraz. 92pts
Finally, up last is a wine from Orange in Vaucluse – hands up who has drunk much wine from there? Willem the Silent 2020 is a Grenache/Syrah/Mouvedre blend (I think), made by Thierry Ferlay – a winemaker better known for his Chateau Neuf du Pape wines. So although it might seem a bit obscure, this has pedigree! A wickedly shining ruby colour in the glass. Smoky, with cigar, almond, blackberry and rosehip on the nose. A delicate balance of lightness and savoury. Some grippy tannin, leads to youthfully, pithy finish. 93pts
