A refined nose – nothing too ballistic here – with a clean intensity and minerality. Aromas of sweet lemon, tarragon, chestnut, grapefruit peel, nougat and golden apple. A zesty, saline acidity gives a satisfying line and drive through the palate with a tart freshness. The ripe citrus-dominated flavours are sweet-fruited without being sweet. Good lees-influence that shows brioche and yeasty notes, and there is understated oak hidden underneath. A classy expression, with weight, spice, purity and character. Love that pithy, drying note on the finish. Different, in a good way. 93pts