A pale lemon-green in the glass, with lively aromatics of white peach, greengage, cardamom, roast cashew nut, lemon zest and elderflower florals. Just the hint of flinty reductivity, and a generous minerality – more crisply saline than in previous vintages. Acidity is pure, focussed, giving fabulous line through the palate. An elegant expression with equal parts concentration and tension as well as warmth and spice. Oak is subtle and restrained, just supporting in the wings. Texture is always important in the Kumeu River Chardonnays, and this has a delicious creamy, oatmeal suppleness. The finish is drying, harmonious and persistent. The best ‘Estate’ yet? 94pts