Wine Reviews 9th November

CRU Cantera 2017

CRU Cantera New Zealand wine

A Smith & Sheth wine, from Omahu, Hawke’s Bay, fashioned in the style of spanish red, with components of Cabernet Sauvignon, Tempranillo and Cabernet Franc. A densely ruby wine – almost inkly deep. A nose of cedary smokiness, crushed herbs and sweet, dark red fruits leads into a palate with more of the same. Some black fruits start to come through, wrapped in a blanket of vanilla oak, and underpinned with grippy tannins. Quite dense and young, but juicy and fresh to a full bodied depth. A persistant sweetness to the finish. Quite tight now, but with the structure and acidity to last a good ten years I would think.

Tongue in Groove Riesling 2015

From the Bedford Vineyard in Waipara, a deep golden yellow/lime in the glass; with a wonderful peppery and orange floral nose. Some of that phenolic kerosene creeps in but its not your straightforward Riesling-thing going on here at all. This has something of a champagne edge to it – decent acidity and a creamy, almost biscuit yeastiness to the rich and full palate. Some pepper balanced with a layer of honeyed melon and mandarin zest that’s not too sweet but edgy and pure at the same time. A long clean finish closes it out. A surprising wine – it has wisps of other styles going through it – a chardonnay drinker would find a lot to love in here, as much as the Riesling fanatics will.

Opawa Sauvignon Blanc 2019

The Opawa vineyard (‘smoky river‘ in Te Reo Maori) is on the old river bed in Marlborough with classic Rapaura gravel soils. A bright lemon colour with a pale intensity and hints of green edges. Presenting aromas of lemon, passionfruit and green capsicum with just a hint of smoky herbals. A crisply acidic palate of gooseberry, kaffir lime leaf and grapefruits is classic Marlborough Sav; but there’s a different textural element to this wine that suggests a light barrel and lees influence to the winemaking as well. Nicely balanced and ripe, it has a sweeping finish of juicy intensity. Under the well-respected Nautilus umbrella, this is treat of wine, from the fantastic 2019 vintage. I’ll be keeping one aside to see how it ages; but its drinking beautifully now for summer.

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