A 2000 vintage Gisborne wine – ‘cellar for up to five years’ (oops). Vivid orange-gold in the glass, with a nose of ripe melon, apricot, lychee, orange rind and rose petals. Acidity is still holding on, muted but clinging on. Dry, with a texture that has, however, blossomed into an oily, caramel unctuousness. Fruit flavours like grilled pineapple and peach also have an underlying savoury element that I like, and adds further complexity. Dried papaya, fennel, toasted almond praline and bitter orange marmalade. 90pts.