From the Holdaway vineyard in Dillons Point, Marlborough, a Sauvignon Blanc in the fumé style – wild yeast, barrel ferment in seasoned oak – owing much to good white Bordeaux, and lots to like here for an ardent Chardonnay fan.
Pale, translucent lemon-green in the glass, with gorgeous almond, nectarine, pink grapefruit, blackcurrant and elderflower aromas. Mineral, saline and wet-stone, flinty characters precede a fine, taut palate of red apple, guava, greengage and preserved lemon. As much about a delicious savouriness as fruit; it is layered and balanced, whilst retaining a bright freshness and acidity.
Not typical for this varietal, there’s good weight, silken texture and a little toasty oak influence, that adds to the complexity and sets it in the top tier of NZ Sauvignons made in this style. To be a classic varietal, it has to age well, and this seems to have the structure and power to go a good distance. Character and flavour-packed, with a lengthy, drying finish. 94pts.
