From their vineyard on the Karikari Peninsula, way up north, this Chardonnay is an appealing lemon-gold colour in the glass. A slightly old-school set of aromas, with a rich, oatmeal, cashew, peach vanilla and popcorn on the nose. Elegant and showing an immediate mineral edge with an oyster shell flintiness, that complements the riper melon, nectarine and white cherry flavours that flood the palate. Acidity is crisp and gives great line, and I like the balanced use of oak.
It obviously has sweet new oak there, but it shows in a spiced, ginger-biscuit and brioche layer that complements rather than intrudes. At first go (in the Cellar Door) I thought this was a reserved, elegant style, but it really blooms given time, and shows much more intensity, vibrancy and concentration. Still not a show-off wine, but a finely crafted and considered example, showing what Northland can do from some great sites. 93pts.
