A bold opening, with its near-trademark struck-match reductive flintiness, orange peel, roast cashew, peach and a lift of heady citrus blossom. More elegant on the palate than the nose suggests, if still a little jazzy and piquant. A silvery, acid freshness kickstarts the drive through multiple, complex layers. Grapefruit and lime develops into more tropical flavours of pineapple, nectarine and honeydew. The oak is still quite overt, needing more time to integrate, but the nutty, smoky vanilla and salted caramel notes are quite appealing, adding depth and richness. Generous and luscious – the texture builds and lends a smoother edge to the decent finish. 92pts. All there, just needing time.