Made in the Wairarapa, but from fruit in Bridge Pa, Hawke’s Bay – Mendoza and Clone 15 grapes from a single vineyard. A brilliant pale straw colour in the glass with fresh, ripe aromas of roast chestnut, orange blossom, nectarine, grapefruit and salted caramel. Medium bodied and with a dense concentration of sweet stonefruit and citrus flavours on the palate. A crisp, linear, acidity gives nice drive. The key note, for me, is the enveloping texture that builds at the back of the palate – silken and opulent – built, I expect, by stirring the lees in barrel post-fermentation. This is a complex and refined Chardonnay – already generous and accessible, but built to last (if you can keep your hands off it). 92pts. Great buying at the current price of $23 on the Matahiwi website.