When I was in Central Otago this year, Malcolm Rees-Francis, the winemaker at Rockburn, had just started doing his annual barrel selection. This is where he tastes every separate barrel that has been fermented from the individual vineyards, looking for the ones that speak most eloquently of the “expression of site” that he’s looking for. It is probably the goal of every winemaker in the country – to produce a wine that is a pure expression of a vineyard. Malcolm explains: “I am more excited about the 2019 than I think any vintage previously. It really just was one of those perfect storms” These are the pinnacles of Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir.
Rockburn Eight Barrels Gibbston Pinot Noir 2019
A single vineyard wine, from their Gibbston Back Road Vineyard. Broodingly dark purple, with an inky depth. Aromas of blackberry, lilac and musk rose florals, and smoky, almost peaty earthiness. On the palate are coltish, succulent cherry and raspberry fruits, underpinned with toasted spices. Plump tannins are balanced and nicely integrated, and add depth to the silken texture. A fair dab of oak seasoning comes in, along with a savoury, crème fraiche tang, to the long lingering finish. 95pts.
Rockburn Eleven Barrels Parkburn Pinot Noir 2019
Another single vineyard Pinot – this one from the Parkburn Vineyard in Pisa. Bright, deepest ruby in the glass, with damson, thyme and morello cherry notes emerging on the nose. Medium-bodied – saturated with ripe redcurrant, rosehip syrup, dried herbal and black tea flavours. Delicate but deep, with fine, lightly grippy tannins and a woody spiciness. Clearly youthful yet already showing focus and harmony. A touch of iron minerality at the long, powerful finish. 93pts.
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