Here, in New Zealand there are great hopes for Syrah. The world loves our Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc, and the best-recognised red variety is arguably Pinot Noir. Unlike the wide swathes of Pinot Noir across South Island, Syrah isn’t grown everywhere – South island only has a little. In fact Syrah tends to be the red varietal of choice (after the Bordeaux varietals) where Pinot is not grown. It certainly seems that areas such Hawke’s Bay in particular is backing the grape to gain acclaim – but Northland, and places like Waiheke Island, are also putting their money on Syrah.
Across the globe, the scents in a Syrah will show earthy, smoky, and savoury notes, but also black pepper, violet, and leather. The fruit profile is usually quite dark, with bramble and blackcurrant leading the way. Often well structured and age-worthy, with a balance between fruit, spice, and earthiness. Some producers will often blend in a small percentage of Viognier, which adds floral notes to the perfume.
The natural path for New Zealand Syrah tends to be a bit more restrained and elegant with a lighter touch, and often with a lighter colour. Much is made of the fragrance. Usually showing good acidity, I saw flavours of blackberries, plums, and cherries, often balanced with subtle spices, floral notes, and some earthy characters. A couple of wines showed a distinctive white pepper character (compared to the black pepper in Aussie Shiraz).
Whilst some of the examples that made the Top 10 list are at the higher end of the market, we did see plenty of entry-level wines that provide great bang for your buck – in both varietal typicity and sheer ‘drink now’ enjoyability. Read to the end of the article for some ideas of best-for-a-budget options.
Our winner was a wine I’d only tried a couple of times – and a few years ago, but from a source that made me stand up and take notice when they produced a stand-out Chardonnay at a recent tasting in Hawke’s Bay. Rod Easthope has this to say about the winning wine from the Easthope Family Winegrowers label:
“From our elevated inland vineyard at Mangatahi, the Home Block Syrah is always a little different—thanks to its 165-metre altitude, north-facing slope, and deep red gravel soils. It’s a site that delivers distinction year after year. In 2024, nature made us work for it. Spring came late and windblown, with a poor fruit set slashing yields. But the payoff came in summer: a long, warm ripening that concentrated flavour into every small, dark berry.
Grapes (100% Baileys clone on 3309 rootstock) were picked on 4th April 2024. Fermentation was 100% whole bunch, hand plunged – on skins for two weeks. 14 months in seasoned Chassin French Oak Puncheons. Finished with no fining, fine pad filtration, and bottled on site.
A vintage to delight critics and worry bank managers.”
Here’s our thoughts on all the winning wines…
Easthope Family Winegrowers Home Block 2024
Blueberry, cranberry, plum, root beer, orange peel, date and floral top notes of pot pourri, rose petal and flowering herbs. The balancing act here is exquisite. Whole bunch gives that clove spice and delicate dry floral, but there is a delicate oak as well – it is densely packed, with a dry, intensity. The aromatics seem to accent the flavours here too – with savoury coming ahead of sweet. Layers of ‘sous bois’, black pepper, fennel and graphite sit neatly between those pliant, spicy tannins. A balanced acidity gives a tremendous line into a tension, power and harmony at the back of the palate. That final element was the differentiator between good, and first, today.
Radburnd Cellars 2021
Generously perfumed with blueberry, doris plum, balsam, bramble, resin, cardamom and a floral vibe of lavender and violet. The dark fruit on the nose reverberates through the palate, nestling in the arms of dense tannin and a seasoning of french oak. It’s got a delicacy to it, despite the ripeness of the fruit. Plenty of exotic spice, but not really peppery – more earthy and savoury towards the dry, persistent finish. “Seamless – very well made” added our tasting notes.
Bilancia La Collina 2024
As I’ve experienced before – this wine has a simplicity and elegance that begins in the bouquet – subtle, classic and quintessentially varietal. A touch of nettle green, then redcurrant, cranberry, black plum, white wood smoke and a lift of rose florals. There palate leads with sinewy tannins and there is a coiled power. Not overly extracted or unnecessarily complex, the beauty is in the balance and linearity.
Trinity Hill Homage 2021
The perfume has a nip to it, with plenty of peppery spice matched to a broodingly dark and inky fruit profile. In the palate, it is both fluid and yet grippy with long tannins and fresh acidity providing a contrasting core. Red plums, boysenberry and a terracotta/earthy savouriness balance well. The palate is long and it turns richer as you go about the journey through it, with every sip showing something more.
Clearview Estate Reserve 2024
A definitive varietal aroma of Syrah, with bramble, damson, fig, star anise, black cherry and floral notes of violets. Well concentrated on the palate, where the oak makes itself known – smoky and toasted, adding richness. Quite dense, with a seasoning of white pepper, spice and a mossy herbal element that is woven through the layers of ripe fruit. Tannin is fine and elegant, and the crisp acidity offers good direction and length.
Chateau Garage Two Terraces 2024
Rich flavours of mulberry and liquorice, sit alongside fresher notes of blackberry and redcurrant, plus savoury olive and peat – and then more…thyme, sage and violet florals. Quite the maypole of flavours! Beyond the juice is a pleasantly simple structure, with fine tannin, vibrant acidity and background oak. The finish is smooth but still energetic and vibrant, benefitting from that lack of over-polishing. “It’s different, in a good way” according to our notes.
The Landing Madre 2022
The perfume is a delight – exotic and ripe. “I could smell this all day” featured in one note. Plum, blackberry, cherry, cassis, mocha, sumac, and graphite on the nose. Medium-bodied, toned and energetic – the various elements bouncing off each other, adding tension and interest. The fine tannins show just a little grip and a smoky smudge of oak lingers as a background note. Throughout, the fruit is rich, concentrated and succulent.
Schubert 2022
Perhaps not surprisingly – considering the producer – this expression is not unlike a spicy Pinot. Cinnamon, clove, pepper, herbal and balsam overlay the ripe fruit. In the palate there is savoury to balance the lush, and an iron-earth loamy quality underlying those flavours. Our notes add “Generous, with chewy tannin”, plus spice and enticing acidity all neatly woven in.
Trinity Hill Gimblett Estate 2021
A second entry for this Syrah specialist producer – this time a single vineyard wine from down in the gravel soils. The tasting notes add ‘there’s a distinct graphite minerality’ to this one. Quite tight and youthful, with a rasp of tannin adding to that iron-earth quality as a counterpoint to dark, ripe fruit flavours. Buoyant acidity completes the picture – this has huge potential for future drinking.
Paritua 2024
The aroma is jam-packed with complex notes of plum, root beer, cranberry, star anise, cherry and that signature floral top note of violets that I saw throughout the tasting. The palate has just as much going on – where a savoury, autumn-leaf element gives contrast to that lush fruit flavour. A bristling line of acidity keeps the palate light on its feet, and both chalky tannin and toasty oak add weight and structure.
As well as the excellent wines that made the Top 10 list, I’d like to make mention of a handful that were just outside the list, but as well as having the quality to compete with the others, do also offer excellent value for money.
Sileni Cellar Selection Syrah 2024
An inky purple colour with a bouquet to match. Blueberry, cherry and liquorice, with cinnamon, paprika and a touch of bonfire smoke. Youthful, juicy and vibrant, with the crisp acidity on point. The fruit bleeds through the plate, with just enough oak to add depth. Around $23
Askerne Syrah 2024
Bright and perky aromatics of boysenberry, plum, bramble, mocha and baking spices on the nose. Medium-weight and well balanced with a viscous flow through the palate. Big on character and long on glossy flavour. The finish is sleek and has good length. Around $25
Soljans Barrique Reserve Syrah 2021
This one starts with a lovely cherry cola note, then roasted plums, a medicinal herbal edge and some floral top notes. Bold and quite full-bodied in the palate where the ripe fruit is wedded to a bounce of acidity and plenty of chalky tannin. Toasty barrel spice develops into the finish. Around $35
