Made by Ashleigh Barrowman, using fruit from the biodynamic Wrekin Vineyard in the Brancott Valley, Marlborough. Bottled under cork and wax. Unfined and unfiltered – a bright golden straw colour in the glass, but expect some cloudiness at the bottom of the bottle. Aromas of grapefruit, apple, preserved lemon, cashew, apricot and orange blossom. A balance between that citrussy clean purity and some funky phenolics into the palate. Brimming with briney, linear acidity, it races along on a wave of energy and remains piquant and mineral. There is texture that sidles in from the wings, adding a silky element and interest. I don’t see oak, but there’s an oatmeal and spice note in the back somewhere, and the whole package is very characterful – from the labelling to the dry, persistent finish. 94pts