On a cold early winter lunchtime, I get to meet the maker of one of my favourite wines this year – James Opie of Bryterlater wines. The wine is/was the Bryterlater Svelte Riesling 2023 – https://winefolio.co.nz/?p=10895. One of the first things I get to hear about the label is that it is named after a Nick Drake album – ‘Bryter Later’, from the early seventies. It’s widely described as “ethereal”, but it is actually the sort of crap hippy twaddle that punk music came about to cleanse people’s ears of. No such thoughts about the wines that James shows me today… even the labels are fab. They take one illustration of what look like hillsides, and apply various colour washes on each to evoke the wines inside, and portray the range to the consumer.
We start tasting through his current range – with a field blend Brambles Rosé made with Pinot Noir, Syrah and Riesling. The majority of grapes come from the Luxston Vineyard in the Eyrewell Forest, Oxford. In fact, 80% of the wine is 2023 vintage Pinot Noir, and 20% is 2022 Syrah/Riesling blend from North Canterbury, so it is non-vintage. It has the soft ripe flavours that a rosé needs to deliver, with a teasing tannin and mineral undertow that makes it interesting. Syrah adds a blueberry muffin note.
Still Life 2022 is made from Sauvignon Blanc, barrel fermented in old oak, and then sits on lees for ten months. Driven by a saline acidity, with flavours of orange peel, guava, dried pineapple and grapefruit. There is a veneer of ‘natural’ wine to this in its simplicity, but it is very focussed and tight. A great balance of interest and drinkability here. Hints of Chablis. The texture is silky and viscose. James describes it very well – “resolved”.
Pinots 2023 is sourced from Banks Peninsula and North Canterbury. Pinot Blanc and 25% Pinot Noir. It starts off with funky aromatics, quite skinsy but bright. A dry, pinchy acidity makes it quite toothsome. Lemon peel, cheesecake, white peach. There is a delicate frisson of energy to the palate, where minerals and oyster shell flavours emerge.
Brambles Orange 2023 is a blend of Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris picked on the same day. Fermented on skins in amphora for 6 months, then settled and blended with a separate barrel of pinot blanc. A clean, even wine where you definitely feel the skin-contact phenolics as well. Juicy acidity and quite a grip through the palate. A depth and sweetness – peach, ginger, pineapple lumps, and just a fruit salad of flavours.
Brambles Red Field Blend 2022 is a re-mix of the original 2020 Brambles. Carbonic-ferment Syrah got started then was messily de-stemmed after five days. It had some Riesling added and set off in a range of amphora and barrels. A pale, opaque ruby/dark pink colour with sour cherry, rhubard and custard, raspberry and salted liquorice flavours. Served chilled it starts with a tight, slightly brett-y entry, but then settles into a roundness that still retains plenty of spicy character.
Ernest Pinot Noir 2022 is made from Abel clone grapes. There is a touch of carbonic fermentation and whole bunch character here, with cloves, cotton candy, pickled cherries and orange peel – the perfume is terrific. Light on its feet, but building through the palate. The tannin that is here is long, fine and a touch prickly. Finishes with a chinotto dryness that contrasts well with the bloodiness of the fruit.
James said something of note about this last wine – “I want it to be bought by someone young to drink with someone old”.
