From selected sites in Marlborough. A very pale green-gold colour in the glass. An energetic burst of flinty, wood smoke and struck match on the nose lies above the underlying, juicy flavours of nectarine, apple and white peach. Dry, full-bodied and taut into the palate. Acidity is pithy and chiselled, with some salinity and mineral notes of wet stone as the wine opens up to show a core of tropical fruit flavours – pineapple, apricot and dried papaya. I find a little greenness in a layer behind that as well – chamomile, sliced fennel and grapefruit, and then a warming note of toasty oak. Quite a complex and interesting wine, with a long, softer finish. 91pts