A return to taste a wine that, in December 2020, had me scampering for the superlatives – that vintage (a 2018) was of course in my list of ‘Best wines of 2020’. This current vintage is an example of that Wairarapa style of Pinot Noir that hangs more on tannin, and shows a ‘meaty’ savouriness from perfume to palate. An imposing bouquet, filled with cranberry, cherry, mocha, black tea, musk, peat and forest floor. A real presence as you delve into the palate – elegant and lighter than the nose suggests, but with a depth, rather than concentration, of flavour that is glossy and complex. Earthy, with a stony minerality. Acidity, tannin and oak are all in support – supple and integrated. Give yourself a bit of time with this – it unfurls nicely over an hour and has a long, harmonious finish. 96pts
Urlar Gladstone Pinot Noir 2021
