Dry River in Martinborough started out as an aromatic white wine producer in 1979 before becoming perhaps better-known for their Pinot Noir. For me, those whites are still their best wines which, importantly, can age beautifully for over two decades. A pale straw/green in the glass, the nose is elegant, with restrained citrus, green apple and grapefruit flavours. There’s a hint of honey, but a swell of minerality is the key here. The acidity is also a driver, with a nip of salinity that together with the mineral gives an energy, flow and freshness to the palate. Ripe fruit gives a hint of sweetness throughout – you could call this a ‘Spatlese’ off-dry expression? It finishes lengthy, pithy and with plenty of character. 95pts