After scoring a hugely creditable second place, podium finish, in the WineFolio Top 10 tasting with their Reserve Pinot Gris… we were committed to trying the other wines from this tier in the Mills Reef portfolio. It’s no secret that I believe that this label is one of the under-rated gems of our local wines – the Elspeth series in particular is seriously top value. Reviewed below are the Reserve Chardonnay, plus three Reserve reds. Was a good night!
Mills Reef Reserve Chardonnay 2018
A Hawke’s Bay wine, from a selection of vineyards across the region – each pick barrel fermented separately, and blended together to produce this bright lemon-green and hugely aromatic chardonnay. With lively, fresh citrus, and peach notes on the nose that flow through to a juicy palate of melon, ripe pear and just a sting of grapefruit with the finely balanced acidity. Spicy and concentrated, with just the right creamy texture not to be cloying. The finish brings in the toasty butterscotch – long, sweetening and succulent.
Mills Reef Reserve Syrah 2018
Mostly from the Mere Road vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels, seeing 11 months in 26% new oak. A vibrant, deep ruby colour; the aroma of violet, bramble and redcurrant is refined and perfumed. Mid-weighted but lithe and elegant – whilst retaining some clearly varietal notes of spice and damson, and weaves in a fine acidity and svelte tannins. It’s concentrated but harmonic, and already showing some impressive complexity. I like that more of New Zealand’s cooler climate Syrah are treading this route – well away from the peppered jamminess of Australia, and into a Rhone-like suppleness.
Mills Reef Reserve Cabernet Merlot 2018
Another Gimblett Gravels wine of Bordeaux blend varieties. Deepest red coloured in the glass with a concentrated but lively herbal, blackcurrant and spice notes on the nose. Weighty and muscular through the palate of black doris, cassis and old leather; framed with fine tannins and influences of nutty, savoury oak. Velvet smooth and a vanilla, lingering finish. Great ageing potential, and delicious with our platter of salami, cheese and sweet, dried fruits.
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