The current vintage of a wine I’ve encountered many times before (and reviewed on the site) From the estate vineyards in Gladstone, Wairarapa. A deep burgundy colour in the glass. Classic Wairarapa perfume, with mushroom, raw steak and autumn leaves on the nose alongside black cherry, raspberry and blood orange. Richly concentrated, with the oak upfront, and tannin quite firm and chewy. More savoury, umami elements prevail – olive, nori and sumac come to mind. An integrated acidity gives good flow and the fruit notes sweeten the finish. A well-made expression of the region, from an under-rated producer. 93pts