A pale green-straw colour in the glass, with prickly, zesty aromatics of mandarin, blanched almond, lime, dried peach and lemon blossom. A lightness of touch and an initial song of energy into the palate where a saline acidity breezes into that pure fruit. Then there is a turn towards a quieter focus and balance to this wine that defies modern definitions of quality like ‘concentration’ and ‘power’. This wine doesn’t look to that, rather it slows you down and makes you aware of the serenely calm flavours that whisper rather than shout, and the spaces and relationships between the elements. Like a liquid form of meditation. The long finish is beautifully detailed and poised. 96pts
Kusuda Riesling 2021
