Wine Reviews 24 November 2019

Mills Reef Elspeth Chardonnay 2016

A single vineyard Chardonnay from the Mere Road vineyard in the Gimblett Gravels. The Mills Reef ‘Elspeth’ wines are well established as one of the very best premium level ranges in NZ. A vibrant grassy lemon colour, with ripe floral and slightly flinty notes revealing. A fresh and mouthfilling flavour of rich peach and citrus meets an underlying cream-filled biscuit essence, the result of plenty of lees stirring during the 11 months in the (50% new) French oak. The ripe fruit is everywhere on the palate, layering with the smokey toast of the oak, and delivering excellent texture; leading to a softening and succulent finish. I have tried many vintages of this Hawke’s Bay wine over the years, and am yet to find one that’s not consistently classy and keenly priced.

Mills Reef Elspeth Syrah 2016

A single vineyard wine from the company vineyard in the famed Gimblett Gravels appellation. A well-regarded and award-winning Syrah, typically showing the best of what Hawke’s Bay reds can be. From an excellent vintage, the wine shows ruby red with a bright depth to the colouring. Scented with violet and ripe plum with a distinct savoury herbal undertow. The fruits jumps out in waves of liquorice, boysenberry with a lively pepperiness. Well-made with plenty of cold soaking and then a stretch of 17 months in fine French oak (50% new) gives great structure and a complex textural quality to this wine. It’s a brooding, supple example of a particularly varietal wine. A very NZ style of wine, but with nods to the grape’s classic Rhone origins. As with the best French versions, this should age very well indeed.

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