To make it down the end of the road, past ancient farm machinery and buildings then onto the Hyperion land is intriguing. To then meet the elegant character that is the owner and beguiling creator of Hyperion Wines, John Crone, is just perfect. This is just what a visitor would be after. A real sense of place – literally miles away from corporate winemaking – with a rustic honesty that is pretty hard to find these days.
John is the epitome of a boutique winemaker; and this was a fascinating and enlightening tasting. Flushed with knowledge of the history, the vines, land and the area’s wines as a whole – with a wall full of plaques, and a story or two up his sleeve waiting to be told. The wine flowed. I had a Pinot Gris and an excellent Chardonnay – the first 2019 version I’ve tried. When I expressed surprise at it being available already, John explained with a gallic shrug that “after 6 months in barrel it was ready” and it was a beautiful wine. Very characterful – lots of spicy oak, and some fig, melon and cashew notes amongst the peach and citrus in a very full bodied palate.
I’ve not had a Pinot Noir from Matakana before – or a Chambourcin outside of Europe. Both were lovely, lighter examples of red wines – not heavy whoppers that leave you reeling; but lithe, with gentle tannins and a cherry/plum combo of fruity finish. My favourite was probably the straight Malbec that they produce. Named ‘Midas’ it is, again, a vibrant but succulent version – nothing like the South Americans produce – with a touch of espresso and liquorice hiding in there somewhere. A 2018, I suspect this could be one to put away and see what unfolds in a few years time.
I’m really pleased to have met John Crone. I don’t often ask for a photo, but I got one of me and John, before going back to having a yarn. And a bit of wine.
