From a difficult vintage, comes the latest from this boutique label – one of the first Chardonnays of the 2023 vintage I’ve tasted. A vibrant pale green colour in the glass, with a perfume of citrus, pear, almond, cucumber and sorrel; then top floral notes of ginger flower and orchid. The signature saline /chalky acidity greets you… giving immediacy of energy and form to the palate, with a precision and linearity. A reined-in power – quite detailed and structured. Savoury elements and subtle spices emerge – tarragon, oyster shell, dried lemon and oatmeal. There’s a point where lush texture and tartness collide – in a good way, with youthful tension. The finish is pithy and crisp, showing good length. 94pts