{"id":9729,"date":"2023-11-07T07:38:05","date_gmt":"2023-11-06T18:38:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9729"},"modified":"2023-11-07T07:38:05","modified_gmt":"2023-11-06T18:38:05","slug":"winemaker-series-emily-mcnally","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9729","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Emily McNally"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Jasper Hill was planted in 1975 – when there really wasn\u2019t much in the ground at Heathcote. It is undoubtedly one of Australia\u2019s great Shiraz producers. When we arrive at the family-run property, we look at a large poster on the wall inside, of the Langton Classification. Both the Georgia\u2019s Paddock and the Emily\u2019s Paddock Shiraz are on the list. Our host – daughter of founders Ron and Elva Laughton – Emily McNally – says \u201cIt is an honour to be included on such a fabulous range of Australian wines. I think on the last list they included a Sparkling Shiraz, which is great\u201d<\/p>

Emily McNally<\/b>: You\u2019ve come at the time of year when I\u2019m pretty much sold out of everything. I only have the \u2018Georgia & Friends\u2019 from our last release, and there\u2019s no Riesling. The last two years – the 2020 and 2021 vintages were affected by the Summer that we had in \u201919 going into \u201920 where we had the East coast of Australia on fire. We weren\u2019t affected by smoke taint but we just had no fruit. Our vineyards had very hot and windy weather during flowering. We had a very poor fruit set to start with and we ended up with very short cane growth as well. I had a little bit of Georgia\u2019s Paddock, so I purchased fruit and made a \u2018Georgia & Friends\u2019, but there\u2019s no Emily\u2019s or Nebbiolo and I made 25 dozen riesling.<\/p>

I got you a 2017 Georgia\u2019s Riesling to taste. I\u2019m after a riesling that is weighted and textural. Where we grow it helps. The soil and the microclimate, and I do sit it on lees – and I do stir it every now and again. It\u2019s all natural ferment as well – the acidity is all natural – it hangs on. During the ripening phase, the sugar goes up and the acid drops off a little, but I don\u2019t add acid out of a bag. This is all natural. We have warm days up here but we have these lovely cool changes that come through and we have cool nights. That in itself allows the vines to recover and recuperate overnight.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/b>: Are you having to make many changes in the vineyards?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: We pulled the Semillon out and are just leaving the land fallow for now, planting a few native grasses. We will plant new vines on rootstock, because all of our vineyards are on natural rootstock, and we really want to be here for another forty years. I will take some vines from here and get them checked and grafted. The continuation of the vineyard will still be true to itself. It might be a particular clone, but it has had time to be that clone, in that place, which is why we\u2019ll work on doing that.<\/p>

We\u2019ve got a few things to do! The last few years we\u2019ve been very heavy on changing our pruning techniques and helping our vineyards recover. After the 2020 vintage that smashed us, we got a viticultural consultant called Tim Brown in.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mum and Dad are in that retirement phase, but they\u2019re still part of the business. But they see things through rose-tinted glasses – from a distance. Whereas Nick and I are on the ground and can see how bad things were. Having Tim come in gave the whole idea an independent perspective. Nick and I knew things were stuffed, but knew we could get it back. Having someone work with us has been fabulous.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: So was there quite a lot of compromise?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: No, because no-one wins in compromising. Mum and Dad have had to say \u201cYes – there are sections of the vineyard you can pull out\u201d. And in the ones we\u2019ll keep we\u2019ll try this new pruning technique. We\u2019ve always been doing cane-pruning, but now instead of having two canes and two random spurs, we\u2019re going to be running off those spurs the whole time. The bottom bud will always be our spur, and the top bud will always be our cane. So when we do our cut, it is always above the sap flow of what is going to grow elsewhere in the cane.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: What, for you, is the best part of the year?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: Pruning is the most important part of the year, and I do enjoy doing it. We\u2019ve had several years of a bad-looking vineyard. I\u2019ve been out picking a lot – I was looking at all this beautiful fruit that I was happy to have, but still looking at where my spur cane was! I get a lot of joy out of the winemaking too, definitely. There\u2019s different parts of things that mean things to me. The smell when you first walk into the winery and you can smell that fermentation has started. To me, that\u2019s a connection to my Dad. Because as I\u2019ve grown up, there\u2019s so many times, over my lifetime where I\u2019ve heard Dad go \u201cCan you smell it Em? It\u2019s started.\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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For me, there\u2019s so many things. We live, breathe this stuff. Sometimes we ignore our families because of it. I can\u2019t think of one thing, and say \u2018that\u2019s the thing\u2019. There\u2019s so many times I think \u201cSod this, why are we doing this!\u201d – that\u2019s the other side of it. Because you work so many hours, for so long, and you just think \u2018God, got another bruise or a cut, or whatever\u2019. But the customers that I have\u2026we don\u2019t make a lot of wine\u2026 but the ones that come here and taste our wine, seek us out. And the majority are just gorgeous customers.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: You\u2019ll have seen a few changes over the years?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: In the 80\u2019s our wines were around 12% alcohol – sometimes 11.5% – it wasn\u2019t unheard of. Then all of a sudden it jumps up to 13%. Then up to 14% and there have been 15% wines. What I find is that even though it is high in alcohol, it hides it, and balances. These days I\u2019m picking earlier and picking just to keep those characters that we\u2019ve had over the years, but also to pare it back a little bit. When I made the Occam\u2019s it was a light to medium bodied red that still ended up being 15%.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

I ran into the warehouse and grabbed an Emily\u2019s Paddock Shiraz 2001. We\u2019ll start on that, and we\u2019ll try an \u201909 Georgia\u2019s Paddock next. I haven\u2019t had one in a while. Originally the wine was made here, well before I started in \u201901, but all the equipment we use now is bigger – the sorting table, the de-stemmer and so on. The eucalyptus leaves are what I look for the most off the sorting table. It depended on the year, but Heathcote wines would be described as a peppermint, or eucalypt character. I pulled six leaves out this year.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: Is there anything that you wouldn\u2019t do again, if you could rewind?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: If I was to make a Grenache again I wouldn\u2019t let it hang on the vine so long. Personally I\u2019d go for a lighter, brighter Grenache. I did feel that ours ended up more on that over-ripe, almost jammy style. To be honest I\u2019m not in a hurry to put Grenache in the ground. It\u2019s variety that would be good with this warming climate, but at the moment my priorities will be putting Shiraz in, from budwood that we\u2019ve got. And also putting in Riesling, Nebbiolo and Fiano under American rootstock as well. They\u2019re the things that we need – that\u2019s what our label does!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And then after that maybe I\u2019ll look at doing something else, but Grenache – I don\u2019t know. There\u2019s something about Grenache. I\u2019m not as enamoured with it as much as others. I find it very one-dimensional. Give me a Nebbiolo any day. I can\u2019t grow Pinot here – but give me a Pinot. I prefer to drink other things than Grenache. We\u2019re not in Chateauneuf-du-Pape – I\u2019m talking about what we would do here.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Is there anything that you\u2019d like to have a go at?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: I don\u2019t know. I don\u2019t know. We take a long time to make decisions here. At the moment my brain is filled with the three years of trying to fix up what we\u2019re doing and we\u2019re halfway through the whole thing. I\u2019m in that mindset and can\u2019t think beyond that. The beauty of what we do is that you, the customer, aren\u2019t able to see any issues of this – in your glass. We\u2019ve got a changing climate and an old vineyard and if I want to have another forty years, then there are things that I\u2019m going to have to do.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Now\u2019s the time to do it otherwise when are we going to? It is a long game that we play. I want to make a wine that can be drunk young – and aged! I like it to be able to do both. A lot of our wines have been able to do both – where if you drink it in the first couple of years, you decant it and drink it as a young wine, and it still shows well. But as it ages it will also work its magic.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/b>: But the ageing in the wines is just beautiful – how they still have that sense of place, and signature of Jasper Hill, but just meld together so well, taking away that shine of youth and it is replaced with something still beautiful, but more elegant, less precocious. I was given a 2018 Emily\u2019s Paddock to try recently and I didn\u2019t fully \u2018get it\u2019, as it seemed so young – disjointed almost.<\/p>

EM<\/b>: I didn\u2019t like the \u201918 myself. It has a taste of Emily\u2019s tears in it – that vintage. I hated the vintage! Absolutely hated it. It was big. It went on forever. There was a lot of fruit, and I couldn\u2019t get it off fast enough. I had so many stuck tanks that I had to work on. Everything about it was just not pleasant and I think you can see in the end product. I think it needs fifteen years on it – I might love it more then. Every year I learn. I know I\u2019ve been doing it for 23 years, but every year I learn something.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I\u2019m not showing you wines that I think are our best vintages. If I was to do that I\u2019d have chosen different vintages. I\u2019d have pulled an \u201906 and a \u201915 out. I\u2019m also not a person that goes \u201cI\u2019ll only show the ones that I think are the best\u201d because what I think are the best might not be what you think are the best. I\u2019m going to show you that every vintage has a different story. There\u2019s a continuity of the place, but there\u2019s so many variables. The general punter has no idea about that there\u2019s so many variables that make the end product in the glass.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/b>: And I guess you don\u2019t have the option to declassify something and put it somewhere else?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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EM<\/b>: I have \u2018Georgia\u2019s Paddock\u2019 and that\u2019s it. If I don\u2019t like the barrel it doesn\u2019t go anywhere else. The only time I\u2019ve blended the Emily\u2019s and Georgia\u2019s together was in the \u201911. It was a very wet year and we made a wine called \u2018Sisters\u2019. I felt they were lovely wines on their own, but they complemented each other and were better together. We did also, for our 25th Anniversary, make magnums of the Georgia\u2019s and Emily\u2019s blended together.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/b>: Are there any stand-out years – you mentioned 2015?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: the \u201915 Georgia\u2019s got on the Wine Spectator\u2019s Top 100 Wines of the world. That was my first vintage that dad wasn\u2019t part of. Mum and Dad went to Europe and they said \u201cDon\u2019t worry, vintage will start when we get back!\u201d. And we\u2019d picked everything by the time they came back. That was a fun vintage. My friend Georgia – who I make the Fiano with – came and stayed and made the Shiraz with us as well. That was the start of Dad not being in the winery. They come and help us process sometimes. Last year they helped a lot! Mum picked fruit! But as far as all the decision making, from 2015, has been me. I include him in things like blending because we\u2019re a family, but at the end of the day the decisions are mine.<\/p>

I\u2019m getting ready for getting last years barrels out, and we had to get the alcohols done so that we\u2019ll have labels in time. I asked Dad if he had some time up his sleeve and could do the analysis on the alcohols for me. So he does it and comes back and I thought \u201cThat\u2019s a bit high\u201d. So we break it down into batches and we work out that there\u2019s a batch of wine that is 16.7% alcohol. As soon as school goes back I\u2019ll be emptying barrels, filling barrels, pressing wine, blends, and it will be right up to the wire.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: What do you think about reviewers who judge your product, and give it marks out of 100?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: You\u2019ve given it a number, but really it is just \u2018an experience that I have loved and will remember – for these reasons, in this moment\u2019. I have no interest or care about scoring. I don\u2019t, I never have. It\u2019s a thing in the moment, with the people you love. I make wine because I love growing grapes and love making wine. I have a terrible memory and always have to ask my husband what things were. But there was a Nebbiolo that we bought in Italy, and we didn\u2019t like it. We shoved a cork in it and put it in the car, and went to caves the next day with the kids. We sat at the river and ate a picnic. Shoved the wine in the river to cool down, and when we drank it we were like \u2018Holy shit, I don\u2019t know what we\u2019ve done with this wine, but it is now fabulous!!\u2019 It\u2019s that moment.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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You\u2019ve now got the 2021, our latest release, which came out in August last year. It is a \u2018Georgia and Friends\u2019. The 2020 vintage was devastating for us. Very little fruit and very limited cane growth. In that Winter we made the decision to sacrifice the \u201921 crop, and pruned the majority of the vineyard, not for fruit, but for vine health, to get us back on track. This wine does have a component of Georgia\u2019s in it, but half of it is from elsewhere. I think most people who have bought this over the last 12 months, will be drinking it as a younger wine.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Are there big differences across the region?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Heathcote GI is long and skinny and you\u2019ve got climatic changes between the southern part and the northern parts of the region. We\u2019re 300ft here and further north it is not that the elevation changes massively, but it is much warmer. And when it rains it can bucket down up in the north. In the southern part you\u2019ve got more of a granitic soil profile, as opposed to heading north it is that cambrian red soil.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

The Occam\u2019s Razor Shiraz was always very different from the Jasper Hill because it came from the south – with hungrier soils. The fruit always had different flavours, with more savoury notes. Here you do get an iron earthiness from the red soils. The Occam\u2019s that I make now doesn\u2019t come from there, and I didn\u2019t make any in 2019. I wasn\u2019t even sure if I would continue the label, but after that year, in 2020, I thought \u201cYou know what – I am going to\u201d. When I was looking for fruit to go into the Jasper Hill blend, I found it hard to find fruit from an organic vineyard, but that becomes part of the story of our forty-something years.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: I thought your life was all just sitting about in the vineyards, reciting poetry and having picnics?<\/p>

EM<\/b>: Hahaha. We\u2019re farmers and we are subject to what the environment throws at us. And the environment is changing. Next to Georgia\u2019s Paddock we have a vineyard that we plan to rip out two-thirds of, and re-establish the other third of it. It has some gullies all through it and it is prone to frost now that the climate has changed. We\u2019re not going to put the expense of a frost fan in – if we were going to do it we should have done it fifteen years ago, and it wasn\u2019t done. It has repeatedly been frosted in these gullies, so we\u2019re going to pull those out and re-jig that section which we\u2019ll keep.<\/p>

Vineyard management becomes even more important now, because what Mum and Dad started with is not what we\u2019ve got now. My brain goes \u201cDo we end up putting some sort of netting up over the vineyard to shade it?\u201d The winds over flowering time can be so much stronger now, so do we something about that? It\u2019s an interesting game we play.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Jasper Hill was planted in 1975 – when there really wasn\u2019t much in the ground at Heathcote. It is undoubtedly one of Australia\u2019s great Shiraz producers. When we arrive at … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9740,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9729","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Emily McNally - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9729\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Emily McNally - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Jasper Hill was planted in 1975 – when there really wasn\u2019t much in the ground at Heathcote. It is undoubtedly one of Australia\u2019s great Shiraz producers. 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