{"id":9567,"date":"2023-10-16T07:50:35","date_gmt":"2023-10-15T18:50:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9567"},"modified":"2023-10-16T13:07:55","modified_gmt":"2023-10-16T00:07:55","slug":"an-evening-of-chateauneuf-du-pape","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9567","title":{"rendered":"An evening of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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I\u2019m seeing a real renaissance in interest in Rh\u00f4ne wines this last 12 months. From the top wines of C\u00f4te Rotie and Condrieu in the north, down to Gigondas and Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape in the south. Chunky (and great value) C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne reds and the whites too, are showing up on tables everywhere I go – whether it is on winelists or at people\u2019s homes. It\u2019s definitely a thing. No surprise then that a fellow wine-lover invited our group for an evening\u2019s tasting of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape at his home in Auckland last week.<\/p>

Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape is one of those well-known appellations where drinkers don\u2019t always know what they\u2019re getting in their glass (unless they\u2019ve used the internet to investigate their bottle). The most important grape in Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape is Grenache. However, 13 different grape varieties are allowed to be used, by AOC laws: Cinsault, Counoise, Mourv\u00e8dre, Muscardin, Syrah, Terret Noir, Vaccar\u00e8se, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc, Clairette Blanche, Picardan, Roussanne, and Picpoul!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The reds are the obvious headliners in the region, but they do also make some very good whites. Now, my opinion has, over the years, been to age your Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape reds for ten years before drinking, but drink the whites young – within five years of release. That\u2019s a personal preference but I find it suits the wines, not just me. I\u2019d probably say the same of C\u00f4te Rotie and Condrieu. Drink the reds with a decade of age, and the Viognier fresh and young. The evening gets underway with an example of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape white – Domaine de Cristia 2021<\/b>. Made of 60% Clairette and 40% Roussanne, it\u2019s both fresh and crisp, and richly spicy. Stonefruit, honey, white chocolate and satsuma merge into a lovely rounded glassful. I\u2019m a fan of Roussanne generally, and this is a winner.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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A couple of 2020 Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape reds show up quite well considering their youth. To be fair, the Domaine la Roquete Piedlong 2020<\/b> was a wine that Maison Vauron advised as being probably the best of their stock to be \u2018drunk young\u2019 to the buyer who brought it along. And so it appeared. A good crunch of primary fruit – it is 90% Grenache and 10% Mourv\u00e8dre – with liquorice, bramble and dried herbal notes. I also like this balance of Grenache with a splash of Mourv\u00e8dre – it pops up again later this evening. I just think it has a simplicity, balance and focus that works. The other youngster – Domaine Charvin 2020<\/b> shows a more complex, but classic blend of 82% Grenache, 5% each of Syrah and Mourvedre, and the rest Vaccarese and Counoise. I have huge respect for the wines from Laurent Charvin, offering excellent value and quality for the price. The 2020 is a super wine, but difficult to really assess as it is so closed and austere right now. The potential is there – rich, minerally and textured, but a bit of a waste to open it now.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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A decent leap of age moves us into what I\u2019d think of as the prime drinking window for these. Domaine Pierre Usseglio & Fils 2013<\/b> is the first to have that wow of floral perfume from the glass. 60% Grenache, 25% Syrah, 10% Mourv\u00e8dre and the rest Cinsault sees a move away from the higher proportion of Grenache into what I\u2019d see as a more \u2018GSM\u2019 blend. But this is a cracking wine. Raspberry, plum, roasted spice, pepper and lashings of that distinctive Proven\u00e7al garrigue. Soft tannin and a quietly serious structure – this will go another ten years easily. Domaine Gal\u00e9van 2012<\/b> isn\u2019t from a well-known Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape producer – they only have a small 2-hectare plot in the appellation, and are better known for their C\u00f4tes du Rh\u00f4ne wines. But this 90% Grenache and 10% Mourv\u00e8dre blend sits up nicely. A balance between youthful fruit-forwardness and some secondary complexity emerging.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Domaine Charvin 2010<\/b> is the second showing from this producer, and, as I\u2019d expect, knocks it out of the park. Yes, you can pay more for Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape, but you\u2019ll not necessarily find better than Charvin. A heady, smoky perfume leads to a concentrated, exotic palate brimming with ripe fruit, spice, minerals but also a fresh sappiness that is just delicious. After this, it\u2019s just settling back and enjoying the evening, thinking about what else will make a podium finish. La Bastide Saint Dominique 2010<\/b> only suffers slightly from sitting directly after that Charvin in the line. 80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 5% Mourv\u00e8dre and 5% Cinsault seems to be the blend here. Superbly aromatic, and then silky smooth on the palate, with lots of interesting layers of flavour – rose petal, cherry, cinnamon and a ripe, punchy sweetness to the fruit – very nicely mature and ready. I think I found my runner-up.<\/p>

Domaine de la Janasse Chaupin 2009<\/b> also sits well in that 10-15 year drinking window. A full-bodied density and power is on show, with some quite heroic tannin in the mix. I like this, but it could easily be hidden away for another ten years before really showing its best. I\u2019m also going to have to skip over the oldest wine that was opened tonight – Domaine de Beaurenard \u2018Boisrenard\u2019 2005<\/b>, as, to my tastebuds, it was corked. That\u2019s the risk you take with any wine under cork – particularly an older vintage. Again, it is probably more my opinion than anything, but corks from five years at either side of the turn of the century – so from mid-90s through to around this time (2005) are notoriously faulty. That\u2019s a sweeping statement, but it is what I\u2019ve encountered. Thank God for the screwcap.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I\u2019m seeing a real renaissance in interest in Rh\u00f4ne wines this last 12 months. From the top wines of C\u00f4te Rotie and Condrieu in the north, down to Gigondas and … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":9575,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[12,3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-9567","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-other","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nAn evening of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=9567\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"An evening of Ch\u00e2teauneuf-du-Pape - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I\u2019m seeing a real renaissance in interest in Rh\u00f4ne wines this last 12 months. 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