{"id":7796,"date":"2023-02-17T08:07:31","date_gmt":"2023-02-16T19:07:31","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=7796"},"modified":"2023-02-17T08:20:01","modified_gmt":"2023-02-16T19:20:01","slug":"a-visit-to-mishas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=7796","title":{"rendered":"A visit to Misha\u2019s"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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On my latest trip to Central, I finally found time to drop into the Tasting Room, in Cromwell, of Misha\u2019s Vineyard. I\u2019d been up in Bendigo that morning with my Pinot advisor Curt Thomas in tow, and driven past the vineyard. First thing I do is apologise to the owner – Misha Wilkinson (after whom the vineyard is named) for not having enough time to actually get up to the site.<\/p>

Misha is happy to see us, but does advise \u201cNext time you come down here, make the time to go and see the vineyard. It is the one site and it is the hero of what we do. It\u2019s distinctly different from other vineyards and it is dramatically steep. It\u2019s got the real wow factor. It really is worth seeing – quite breathtaking\u201d.<\/p>

Curt – as a first time visitor to Bendigo – was amazed by Prophet\u2019s Rock. It\u2019s just such a dramatic landscape. The fortitude and imagination, if you like, of someone to develop a vineyard in a place like that is just mind-boggling. At Misha\u2019s Vineyard they have a 3.5 km driveway, with a sheer drop off the side, where you drive up through a moonscape, up to 350 metres high, facing the lake. Andy and Misha Wilkinson were the first to be on the lake-facing terraces of Bendigo. And at first they had no water. The first thing to be done was to install an irrigation scheme. A huge pump on the floor of Lake Dunstan, and then horizontal drilled under State Highway 8. Then a 200m lift of the water, and five 30,000 litre tanks. The neighbouring vineyards also draw water from the scheme.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The pair had Robin Dicey as a Viticultural Advisor and got the land verified by Dr Richard Smart, a leading global consultant on viticulture who came and looked at 32 soil pits on the vineyard. Along the Bendigo slopes, there\u2019s been a lot of changes in ownership over the years, with the land next to them being sold a couple of times. Now, to the south of the vineyard is the big Scapegrace distillery development, whilst to the north of are lots of lifestyle blocks, but with some people putting in the likes of small vineyards, and cherry orchards.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Misha gets us started while we wait for winemaker Olly Masters to arrive. \u201cWe do three Pinots and I\u2019m feeling flippant I tell people they\u2019re for \u2018Lunch, Dinner, and Special Occasions\u2019. Apart from the Verismo block, we\u2019re managing the vineyard so that all the fruit is on its way to create The High Note<\/b> Pinot. Just in terms of cropping level and leaf plucking. Everything is done by hand, and hand harvested, which takes a month to harvest.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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When Olly tastes through all the barrels, every barrel is different, and he basically puts together a blend of all the barrels that have just got a bit more fruit forward and plushness \u2013 that\u2019s for Cantata. And this barrel selection is mainly for on-premise, as a premium-by-the-glass. It helps to make \u2018The High Note\u2019 even better because we\u2019re taking out just the juicier barrels, but it works really well\u201d.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

The market for Misha\u2019s Vineyard is predominantly on-premise and they talked to many restauranteurs, who said\u00a0 <\/span>\u2018We need an affordable, good quality Pinot, but we don\u2019t want to have something that is a second label that\u2019s in all the supermarkets and retail\u2019. In reality, it isn\u2019t farmed and produced as a lower-grade Pinot. Negociants, who distribute the wines in New Zealand, have found this really hits the mark in terms of price and quality.<\/p>

I ask Misha if those early years starting out in Central were hard?<\/p>

Misha explains those early years and gives us a short run through of their history: \u201cIt\u2019s never easy when you\u2019re starting out. We approached Olly and he initially didn\u2019t want to move from Ata Rangi, but we persuaded him to come down here. It was Steve Smith who suggested we get Olly. And I think it was just at that stage when people were starting to notice Central. It had been Martinborough that had been the place for Pinot – and it still makes amazing Pinots, but in terms of that tipping point of where the Pinots were coming from\u2026<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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He joined in 2006. We did a trial vintage in 2007, and our first commercial vintage in 2008. The trial vintage we called\u00a0 <\/span>The Audition<\/b>. The vines were three years old. We always say we were auditioning the winemaker – Olly – to see if he knew anything about making Pinot! We just did a tonne and a half – a hundred cases. I still have \u2018The Audition\u2019 which is interesting to taste. Just made from one clone at the top of the vineyard – we wanted to go through the process and let Olly get his hands on the fruit a little bit before we started in 2008.<\/p>

2008 was quite a big vintage in Central Otago. An abundant year. Our vines were four years old and we cut more than 60% of the fruit off pre-veraison. And that\u2019s the hardest thing. You\u2019ve waited four years to take your first crop and \u201cReally – we\u2019re cutting that much fruit off?!\u201d But I\u2019m really happy with the \u201908. Central had had small crops in \u201906 and \u201907, and some people kept the bigger crops on for \u201908 but then found it was a little bit diluted. A couple then didn\u2019t do their top brand.<\/p>

\u2018The Audition\u2019 from 2007 became \u2018The High Note\u2019 and that is our main Estate Pinot. Those early vintages do really well – in fact we\u2019ve been supplying Cassia Restaurant with all of our library vintages that we were happy to part with. We\u2019ve done sixteen vintages now, and in the first ten vintages all the Pinots needed time. It took a while for the vineyard to achieve its potential. Some of our earliest Pinots – \u201908, \u201909 and \u201910 – they are drinking beautifully now, but they were very tight and unforgiving early on.<\/p>

We held a showcase events\u00a0 <\/span>in Wellington and Auckland to show the ageability of our Pinot Noirs. We showed \u2018even vintages\u2019 – \u201910, \u201912, \u201914 and \u201916, but I gave all the attendees a little book which had the reviews of all the vintages. I thought people are going to say \u201cOh you\u2019ve only showed us the even vintages, not the odd vintages so are they\u00a0<\/span>not as good?\u201d. Before we did those showcase events, we had Cameron Douglas MS and Olly sit in the back room and we opened everything. I said to Olly \u201cyou\u2019re sitting here now as a judge and you\u2019ve got to taste, review and score\u201d. We were looking for lots of things – like should they still be in the cellar, or past their drinking window\u201d. We were all excited about the Pinot Noirs during that tasting exercise so it was great to be able to demonstrate the ageability of our wines to media and trade at the showcase events”.<\/p>

Olly arrives from the winery, with samples of the components of \u2018Verismo\u2019 and we settle into tasting the various wines and having a round-table discussion.<\/i><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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David WB<\/b>: Is it a challenge to have to section things up, for different parts of what is being produced – the different markets you\u2019re going for with the wines?<\/p>

Olly Masters<\/b>: The thing is, with our site, you\u2019ve got a reasonable variation in terms of vigour and aspect and there\u2019s a lot to play with even though it is one block. We start picking down at the lakefront and we\u2019re still picking a month later, at the top. Then there are clonal differences and that makes a huge difference. The Abel is right down at the bottom, for example, but that\u2019s a late clone. And there\u2019s two sections, even within the row down the bottom – the bottom half is quite vigorous and gives us quite a high crop as Abel will carry a lot of crop.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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But the top half of those rows is much lower vigour and we get to pick the low-cropping part of that parcel early. The bottom half can carry twice as much fruit.<\/p>

DWB<\/b>: Do you keep things separated as they come in? How many various ferments would you have going on?<\/p>

OM<\/b>: Where there\u2019s an obvious difference like that, where we pick half of the row – we keep that separately and we\u2019ll go back when the rest is ready. This season we had about 15 ferments. A lot of larger four-tonne lots, but then those \u2018Verismo\u2019 picks are more like 1.5 tonnes.<\/p>

DWB<\/b>: What was the deciding factor is coming down here to make wine?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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OM<\/b>: Well, initially I said no. I was still consulting to Ata Rangi, and I got a phone call one day from Misha whilst I was driving around Martinborough. She wanted to know if I was interested in coming down and seeing what they were going to do. Back then it wasn\u2019t so busy and now the flights have got a lot easier! So it is more achievable logistically to come down here than it used to be.<\/p>

DWB<\/b>: I spoke to Larry McKenna just before he retired from Escarpment, and he did say that he kind of wished he\u2019d found a way to take up some of the opportunities he\u2019d seen in Central.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: The block right next to us, we call the McKenna block, because Larry had been down and said \u201cThat\u2019s what I want\u201d. He had come down and picked it out.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

DWB<\/b>: Right – well, I hadn\u2019t heard that before? And Curt has a connection with Martinborough – he\u2019s known Clive for a long time.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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OM<\/b>: I was down there at the end of \u201989, and when I worked there my first vintage was \u201990. Worked for Ata Rangi for ten years after that. Martinborough was a vastly different town back then. Martinborough has always been a little bit on the edge cropping-wise. A bit like Waipara and Canterbury. One of the advantages that Central has – whilst the weather can be challenging, it is a lot more reliable. I still commute. I\u2019ve got one hectare of fruit that I generally sell to Ata Rangi, and consult to a few people around town. And down here about half the time.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: This is the \u2018Verismo\u2019 2016.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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DWB<\/b>: That\u2019s pretty seductive isn\u2019t it? Very generous through the middle, and a bite of acidity at the finish.<\/p>

OM<\/b>: That freshness and the fruit is the key – it is Central\u2019s point of difference. Martinborough has a warmer, broader slightly more mature fruit character. That bright, pure cherry, plum\u2026 is Central.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: Olly used to say when he was asked what is the difference between Wairarapa and Central – that in Martinborough it has structure but you\u2019re looking for the fruit; and down here you have to be a fruit tamer. It\u2019s a cool climate wine so the fruit should be fresh.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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DWB<\/b>: So was it the opportunity to do something different that appealed?<\/p>

OM<\/b>: They took me around the site and you feel that history. You come here and drive down the gorge and you see those huts, thinking how the gold miners struggled over winter in a stone hut in the middle of that gorge. The challenge that it would have been to earn a living off that dirt.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

I think that vine age, which everyone talks about, is real. I got to see that in Martinborough. Central has always got fruit, but in terms of palate – length, line, and not having to throw a lot of oak at it, or other ways. It takes a while where you can rely just on that piece of ground. This vintage the vines will be twenty years old. We always said that ten years was a good start. It feels like the last five years, the wines have just got easier to make – and better and better.<\/p>

I was going through samples today. The whole vineyard could deliver $55 Pinot wines. But in terms of finding a place in the market, and selling that – where there is a million and one labels. In reality that\u2019s not easy. You have to have an entry-level, approachable wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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MW<\/b>: I\u2019m almost a bit scared pouring this, as it was your number one ros\u00e9 last year. That one was about four and a bit grams, and this is three grams – but you\u2019ve got a bit more barrel portion in this.<\/p>

OM<\/b>: Yes, one more barrel. Which, on a small volume, makes a big difference percentage-wise.<\/p>

Two clones – 114, which is one that we don\u2019t necessarily like for the main Pinots. And six. We\u2019re looking for something that ripens earlier. It\u2019s ready two weeks earlier than everything else, so it actually works well to be able to pick it and turn it into ros\u00e9. We always want to pick fruit early, but that\u2019s easier said than done. Keeping that purity of fruit, but it still has texture and weight in it.<\/p>

David and I just judged ros\u00e9 together at a show, and it was the most consistent colour of ros\u00e9 I\u2019ve ever seen.<\/p>

DWB<\/b>: Yes, there was hardly any that stood out were there? There were maybe two that were the old school, darker ros\u00e9 colour. This one has lots of fruit to it – almost full flavoured in terms of a ros\u00e9. The acidity gives you that lovely snap to the finish, clean and fresh. And a distinctive flavour I\u2019d call \u2018Christmas nougat\u2019 – with cranberry, macadamia and a nip of honey.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: And we just tweaked our label for the \u201922 vintage. We\u2019ve always had our vine with the eight bunches of gold. What we\u2019ve added now is schist down at the bottom. Everything is single vineyard and so influenced by the schist – so we added that. We\u2019re trying to show the site as much as we can.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I\u2019ll get the Sauvignon, and we\u2019ll change glasses. This is planted on the ski slope block, and if I\u2019m looking across the vineyard from the lake – that\u2019s it, and it\u2019s a little bit steep! (laughs) The left hand portion is the Pinot that goes into the ros\u00e9 and the rest is the Sauvignon. You can only pick walking down the hill, and when the pickers get to the bottom of the hill, they get in a minibus and we drive them back up to the top of the hill. The fruit gets quite a lot of colour, because we\u2019re not quite at the optimal angle, and one side of the canopy gets more sunshine than the other. Olly has had us pick one side of the canopy and go back and pick the other side. But normally now we pick it together. The sunny side goes gold and the other side is still green Sauvignon, but it can also happen on the bunch – you get a tropical side and a lemon-lime side. In Sauvignon that works really well. On the sunny side we don\u2019t do any leaf plucking and leave all the canopy there, and on the more shaded side we take all the leaves off.<\/p>

DWB<\/b>: It has that white Bordeaux style to it.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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OM<\/b>: Yes, that liquorice and jellybean. Sometimes it has a bit more passionfruit to it. Typically there will be about 30-40% old wood, wild ferment. It adds more texture, but you don\u2019t see it on the nose. It softens and broadens the back of the palate.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: It is interesting from a Tasting Room perspective. When people come in here, we give them this list and say \u201cPick any five on there\u201d and they don\u2019t do the Sauvignon. And you say \u201cPlease try the Sauvignon – it\u2019s a different expression\u201d. And what we\u2019ll tend to get is a positive reaction.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

We export to fifteen countries, including Asia; and although we only have two hectares, when going into some of their markets – they ask if we have Sauvignon. And we can say \u201cYes – and can we talk about the other wines..\u201d And what was nice is we had a couple of listings like the Paddock Bar at the Singapore Grand Prix which is a $10,000 three-day pass to the Paddock Club right behind the pits. What they liked about the Sauvignon is that it is from New Zealand so will satisfy the people who like that fruit-forward style, but it still has enough of that minerality that will keep the old world happy.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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DWB<\/b>: How are you finding your time on the New Zealand Winegrowers board? Last time I saw you, you\u2019d just been elected onto it.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: I\u2019m two years into that. It\u2019s interesting and challenging. Maybe ten to twelve hours a week, so it\u2019s very time-consuming. You have to think about the industry from so many different perspectives and you\u2019re really aware that it\u2019s a two-speed industry. 90% of the wine is produced by half a dozen people, and the other 680 players are small. The reality is it\u2019s a Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc story. You look at our exports – 96.5% of what we export to the US is Sauvignon.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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And this is the Lyric Riesling<\/b>\u2026We\u2019re a reasonable size producer of Riesling for down here. In a good vintage we\u2019ll do 7-800 cases of \u2018Limelight\u2019 and 2-300 of \u2018Lyric\u2019. In the Tasting Room we pour the two Rieslings, and this one is the number one wine we sell. Overall we sell more Pinot, but there are three different versions of that.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

We also have a wine – thank you Air New Zealand – that is served on Business Premier – our 2021 Dress Circle<\/b> Pinot Gris. They knew about us because the Limelight Riesling<\/b> was a Fine Wine of New Zealand and was in Business Premier a couple of times. The 2021 is drinking beautifully right now.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We had a discussion recently about the ageability of Pinot Gris. A critic, Ian D\u2019Agata of Terroirsense, said of our \u20182015 Dress Circle\u2019 – \u201cIf this isn\u2019t the best New World Pinot Gris wine I have ever had, it comes real close to being numero uno\u201d\u00a0<\/p>

We also have a Gewurztraminer<\/b> – quite often the residual sugar is about ten, but this is about six. It\u2019s always in that 6-10 range. This is very drinkable, that you can put with anything. It is your dry white wine match.<\/p>

CT<\/b>: One thing I don\u2019t like in Gewurz is when it gets soapy, or especially that pot pourri vibe to it – it makes my skin crawl! Someone described that perfectly as \u2018the smell of your grandma\u2019s lingerie drawer\u2019<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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OM<\/b>: We try to keep that brightness and freshness. Gewurz has such a low acid, potentially.<\/p>

MW<\/b>: And The Cadenza<\/strong> <\/b>– this is our foray into a refreshing dessert wine, and not too many people can say that. I think you would serve it with anything fruit-based, but as an aperitif as well, with chicken or pat\u00e9. This was picked on the 8th of June! We finish harvest at the end of April.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

CT<\/b>: You get that cinnamon spice, but it doesn\u2019t seem like straight Gewurz. It\u2019s got a different flavour spectrum than what I\u2019m used to. I\u2019m loving that.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tReview of 2008 'Verismo' Pinot Noir here >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tResults of our Top 10 Tasting of Ros\u00e9 here >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tReview of 'The Dress Circle' Pinot Gris here >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tThe 2021 Vertical Tasting article, here >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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On my latest trip to Central, I finally found time to drop into the Tasting Room, in Cromwell, of Misha\u2019s Vineyard. 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