{"id":6682,"date":"2022-09-28T07:17:05","date_gmt":"2022-09-27T18:17:05","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6682"},"modified":"2022-09-28T07:32:23","modified_gmt":"2022-09-27T18:32:23","slug":"winemaker-series-marty-pickering","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6682","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Marty Pickering"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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In the heart of the Onetangi Valley, I\u2019m catching up with Marty Pickering<\/b> at Stonyridge<\/b>. Best known for one of New Zealand\u2019s most celebrated wines – the Larose<\/b> Bordeaux blend red, but the first thing we get into is their Chardonnay – no surprises there, and we take a stroll down to the vineyards. From there we can see down to the old shed, where Stonyridge first started – which my colleague Gabor remembers\u2026<\/p>

Marty<\/b>: I\u2019ll show you downstairs some photos of the first harvest where they\u2019re rinsing out barrels just sitting on the grass. It was pretty basic, literally garageiste winemaking. A lot of people claim to be \u2018garageiste\u2019 but this actually was.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

I\u2019ve been here ten years now, and one of the only vintages we haven\u2019t made Larose is 2017 – where from the start of February to the middle of April we got 840 mm of rain, which is two thirds of the annual rainfall for Waiheke Island – and 1992 which was Mt Pinatubo, before my time.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/b>: How\u2019s this year looking?<\/p>

MP: <\/b>This season is well advanced and we\u2019ve got a good crop. Weather during flowering was really good. Nice sunshine last season, so quite fruitful buds. The earlier part of Spring was quite wet, so there\u2019s a couple of patches of issues with powdery, but not too bad. We had a lot of moisture in the ground which was good for canopy growth, and we\u2019re looking at a potentially early harvest.<\/p>

We can get up to about 36 degrees in the vineyard. Onetangi Valley is its own little microclimate, because it is a bit of a bowl and we\u2019re quite nicely surrounded. There\u2019s a lot of vineyards that run down to the road from this ridge here – you\u2019ve got Tantalus, the Shepherds Point block, Wild Estate, and the Carter Soho block up against that hill, which has quite a nice aspect as well. A lot of people, when Steven planted, looked at this place, and then went and bought blocks with spectacular ocean views. But wind is a real enemy of grape vines, and so they had these vineyards that looked spectacular but struggled. Look at Peninsula Estate – that got completely ripped out. They used to make some pretty nice wines in the good vintages, but in the average to poor vintages they really struggled – even just with fruit set.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Waiheke\u2019s got five or six different soil types throughout the island, so it is not just one type of clay. We have olive trees on the property and it all gets picked by Rangihuoa, and we get 50% of the oil back once it is processed. We also have cork trees. There\u2019s one just here and then a grove of them down further, and a big one next to the winery. Back when Stonyridge was first having tourists, they were told \u2018one of these days we\u2019ll be harvesting all our own cork\u2019 but it just isn\u2019t dry enough. One of our winery suppliers is Portuguese and he\u2019s worked in the cork industry for decades and he keeps saying that the next time he comes up he\u2019s going to bring his tools and peel the trees.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: That would be great, just to have a slab of it and say that it comes from this place. And, how many tonnes does the winery do in a year?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: In a big vintage we\u2019ll do 35-ish, but that is capacity. The Barrel room was really only set up to do twenty barrels a year, but you could do 18-month ageing. Now we fill it and plus some, so we have to do the bottling of the vintage every year.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Even the Larose? So do you use quite a bit of new oak?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: Yes, so the Larose gets about ten months in total. We do around about 60, some vintages 70\u2026 so it has got a tonne of new French oak. The cost of barrels seems to be creeping up every year, much higher than the rate of inflation.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: How did you end up working here?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: I was at Mudbrick as the Head Winemaker, and I\u2019d collected a few gongs over there. So when Summer, the winemaker here, was leaving they approached me, and I haven\u2019t looked back. We don\u2019t really enter competitions much. I enter things like the Pilgrim in a couple of competitions but we\u2019re not registered as a Sustainable Winery, so there\u2019s only a couple of competitions we\u2019re allowed to enter!\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Our winery is so old it would need some major upgrades. The vineyard is accredited sustainable and we used to run it organically although it was never registered. But we started to get a wet season disease in the Cabernet, which was really taking everything out, so we had to look at some of the more systemic chemicals to try to deal with that. Because if we don\u2019t pick Cabernet we\u2019re out of business basically. So that necessitated a bit of a change in thinking. There\u2019s no point in sticking to your principles as you\u2019re going out of business.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Irrigation?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: No, all dry farmed. Pretty good clay soils which holds the water. We get a lot of rain in the Winter and Spring.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We decant ourselves down to the barrels, in the oldest parts of the building<\/i>.<\/p>

MP<\/b>: We use a lot of new oak and we use thin staves as well, so the wines aren\u2019t getting too developed. We bottle the wines after ten months but they\u2019re really grippy and they\u2019re built to be cellared. We\u2019re getting the oak flavour that we\u2019re after, and I do like the wines as they are – quite big, quite a mouthful. And you\u2019re happy to leave them for ten, twenty years, which is what our customers do. We do have a few older members who complain that they have to leave them, and say \u201cI\u2019ll have to cut my allocation, because I\u2019ll be dead by the time it comes to drink them\u201d. Which is a very real problem.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: What\u2019s this in the glass, it\u2019s really nice?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: Have a guess.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: I\u2019d say it\u2019s got a lot of Malbec in it. And also a very distinctive blanched almond note.<\/p>

MP<\/b>: Yes, that\u2019s the Luna Negra<\/b>, it is Malbec. This particular cooperage, the Atelier, is newer, and the guy had worked really closely with Didier Dagueneau to develop the cigar-shaped barrels. The Cooperage is right in the middle of the Tron\u00e7ais forest. I love it with the Malbec. It\u2019s got a character about it that I think really works well.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Who else do you think is doing good things on the island?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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MP<\/b>: Goldie are starting to do some really good stuff these days, and at Mudbrick their top wines are good. I did see one of their other wines on the market six months after harvest though – i assume just to get some wine out. There\u2019s only so much earlier that you can release wines though – you can\u2019t do it every year, or you\u2019ll end up a week after harvest!! It doesn\u2019t make any sense. Just accept the fact that you\u2019re a winery and you\u2019re going to run out of the product. Source wines from elsewhere and do it like that rather than compromise the quality. The vast majority of wines are bottled under screwcap, so you\u2019re also not going to get much development.<\/p>

And this is Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon. Cabernet Franc is one of those varieties that can just look like absolute arse right through. It can be so leafy and foxy. 2014 was a really terrible year. Every time I stuck my nose in a tank, I thought \u201cI wonder if I could have an accident with this\u201d. But after a decent amount of time in barrel it just came right and lost that vegetal edge. Most of it went into the Airfield<\/b>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We also love our Petit Verdot. In 2017 when we pretty much lost all the Cabernet, the Petit Verdot was the thing that really saved us. We released another wine called Coeur de Lion<\/b>, because it wasn\u2019t Cabernet-based so we didn\u2019t want to call it Larose. That was principally Petit Verdot. They\u2019re loose bunches so they have a lot of airflow and it works really well in a wet vintage. Sometimes it can be close to 20% of the Larose. It\u2019s very floral and has a savouriness about it.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: Wow, what\u2019s this? That just leaps out of the glass. Sweet fruit, but amazing big tannin.<\/p>

MP<\/b>; That\u2019s mainly Cabernet, about 85%, with a little bit of Petit Verdot, a bit of Franc. We\u2019re a little limited by tank size – because of the crop we\u2019re bringing in I\u2019ve got to maximise volumes in tanks. That\u2019s why I\u2019ve got a few blends in tanks.<\/p>

WF<\/b>: And why is this one so amazing?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: That\u2019s the Cabernet! All these other bits and pieces\u2026 just supporting. For me, this year, the sugars were a little on the high side. 2019 was an example where the day we picked the cabernet, we\u2019d just had quite a lot of rain, but it was right at the point where it tasted really good, but it needed to be brought in right now. We hammered it and picked a third of the crop in one and a half days. The wine from 2019 was wonderful.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I prefer to pick with ripe flavour. If you talk about these wines with big extraction, big fruit – if they\u2019re 12.5% alcohol, they don\u2019t have the body to carry that. All front of the mouth, big tannin, without that richness in the mid palate.<\/p>

It\u2019s like the Chardonnay i produce here. There\u2019s lots of people on the island who pick their Chardonnay as soon as it is 19.5 or 20 brix. Because they want to keep freshness and elegance and all this kind of stuff. But all you\u2019re doing is picking green fruit. There\u2019s no goldenness about it. You\u2019re fighting nature. It\u2019s not ripe fruit, it\u2019s green fruit. It\u2019s just bullshit. If you wanna make Chablis, go to Central Otago. You\u2019ve got these lovely long, hot summers on Waiheke – which lends itself to richer, riper wines. I don\u2019t understand it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/b>: What would you be doing if you weren\u2019t a winemaker?<\/p>

MP<\/b>: Oh, God knows. I\u2019ve been doing it so long. I wasn\u2019t even legal drinking age when I first started at Goldwater. I did dairy farming for a while before I started with wine, because my Dad was a dairy farmer and had a farm. I worked for a while at another farm. I hated it. It was back breaking – and up at 4am, didn\u2019t finished until after six of an evening. Fall into bed. Just a grind. And I worked out what I was getting paid – you used to get a weekly wage and I worked out it was about $2.50 an hour. They took out accommodation and all those kinds of things. Happy I got into wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

In the heart of the Onetangi Valley, I\u2019m catching up with Marty Pickering at Stonyridge. 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