{"id":6117,"date":"2022-07-18T10:35:21","date_gmt":"2022-07-17T22:35:21","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6117"},"modified":"2022-07-19T07:03:33","modified_gmt":"2022-07-18T19:03:33","slug":"a-visit-to-dry-river-estate-martinborough","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6117","title":{"rendered":"A visit to Dry River Estate, Martinborough"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"6117\" class=\"elementor elementor-6117\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-af0a5a4 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"af0a5a4\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-e128bfd\" data-id=\"e128bfd\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e09970d elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"e09970d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>I\u2019m at <b>Dry River<\/b> on an afternoon visit as part of the \u2018Pinot Day\u2019 weekend extravganaza. On our side there\u2019s John Ingles, Gabor Sarescky and Curt Thomas &#8211; and we\u2019re talking with <strong>Wilco Lam<\/strong>, the winemaker, and <strong>Sam Rouse<\/strong> his assistant, from the winery. It\u2019s been over a year since any of us has visited &#8211; so there are a bunch of whites that we haven\u2019t seen before.<\/p><p>The year in between has been great in Martinborough. They had a few frosts but nothing significant. And this year looks like it is going to be a pretty similar vintage. It has been slightly warmer in the evening this year &#8211; more nights over ten. Also showing quite a bit of heat early on, so the heat build up post-flowering was similar. First we get to see some whites from 2020 first. The riesling is Craighall. In 2020 they still had Block 5, so there was two parts &#8211; Craighall Block 5 and 6. We want to know if all the rieslings that are made come from the same vineyard &#8211; including their Late Harvest. The 2020 riesling is beautifully aromatic, with something like a honey flavour to it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-bb0a921 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"bb0a921\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-4f3daba\" data-id=\"4f3daba\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-fc1e5c9 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"fc1e5c9\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-whites-20-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6124\" alt=\"Dry River whites 20\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-whites-20-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-whites-20-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-whites-20.jpg 950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-5d4d211\" data-id=\"5d4d211\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-4ad3859 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"4ad3859\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Wilco explains: <i>\u201cLate Harvest usually the majority comes from here, because it is later ripening and due to the direction. But then there\u2019s always a little bit of 5 in there as well for better acidity. Block 6, in terms of Chardonnay, has always got more austerity to it than the Dry River Chardonnay. The Pinot has always got the graphitey, reductive note to it.<\/i><\/p><p><i>A lot of that honey character comes from Block 5. We always see it as a more herbal, fennel look. This sits at about a ten in residual sugar.\u00a0<\/i><i style=\"font-family: var( --e-global-typography-text-font-family ), Sans-serif; font-size: 1rem; caret-color: #000000; color: #000000;\">We were a little bit concerned when it was at ten, but then the balance was just so right.\u00a0<\/i><i style=\"font-family: var( --e-global-typography-text-font-family ), Sans-serif; font-size: 1rem; caret-color: #000000; color: #000000;\">And then trying to get something re-started at that level\u2026 We\u2019ve been doing so many long ferments. The \u201821s are just finishing now. Also, we don\u2019t do any botrytis on this wine. It is absolutely clean. If it happens in the Late Harvest that\u2019s fine\u201d<\/i><span style=\"caret-color: #000000; color: #000000; font-family: -webkit-standard; font-size: medium;\">.<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-493d707 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"493d707\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-5791c88\" data-id=\"5791c88\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-bc1d682 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"bc1d682\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>\u00a0<\/p><p>The comments from our group is that this is isn\u2019t necessarily a style we\u2019d expect from Dry River, but we\u2019re very happy with it!<\/p><p>Wilco has this to say about our perceived shift in style: <i>\u201cIt\u2019s not that we changed the style, but the style has changed. Our approach to viticulture and winemaking is so different now. The ferments now are so long and slow, with so much lees in suspension. Some of the wines partly go through malo, so you get a much more softer palate and a bit more buoyancy. We pick a little bit later because I start to get sick of that borderline tightness, for me. I like a little more ripeness, especially when they are going into these long ferments\u201d<\/i>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-3f67523 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"3f67523\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-9654444\" data-id=\"9654444\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-38ccf2a elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"38ccf2a\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Then Sam is swift to add: <i>\u201cWe are lucky that it does get cold enough to slow right down. We\u2019re super happy with how it all came out. Spring comes along and they start happening again. It has taken a few years to be comfortable with that, and happy that it\u2019s going to happen. We trust our fruit and our winemaking\u201d<\/i>.<\/p><p>Wilco goes off and gets a sample of the \u201921 riesling, returning with jug in hand &#8211; \u201c<i>This literally just finished a few weeks ago. This is quite dry &#8211; about 5 grams I think. Alcohol was around 12, I think. In the past we\u2019ve been quite Alsatian, and now there\u2019s a lot more roundness and finesse of palate. Sweetness really helps to bring out that fruit aromatic, and as it goes drier, it dulls it down a little more too. It looks a little more serious and the acidity is a little more firm.<\/i><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-36ba97e\" data-id=\"36ba97e\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e2dd7eb elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"e2dd7eb\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wilco-talking-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6128\" alt=\"Wilco Lam\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wilco-talking-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wilco-talking-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wilco-talking.jpg 950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-d7f0042 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"d7f0042\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f85f271\" data-id=\"f85f271\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-21346f5 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"21346f5\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><i>So &#8211; Pinot Gris! We are loving this. It\u2019s almost like we wished we made these steps of progression &#8211; how we see it &#8211; in the Pinot Noir as well. This evolution is a direction we\u2019d love to take the Pinot on as well. Maybe it is less obvious in the Pinot &#8211; the steps we are taking? With the Gewurztraminer and Pinot Gris we see more reward for those steps. With the Pinot it is perhaps more hidden behind the structure\u201d<\/i>.<\/p><p>As a regular drinker of the wines, I would say that the<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0 <\/span>progression I\u2019ve seen is quite dramatic &#8211; and perhaps more obvious even in the Pinots? I mean, I am talking about degrees of fineness &#8211; really fine-tuning &#8211; but, to my palate, quite obvious. The aromatics, the increase in length, the balance. Big is not better.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-6440409 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"6440409\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-18a1da2\" data-id=\"18a1da2\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-0ca4fdd elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"0ca4fdd\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-PGris-2020-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6119\" alt=\"Dry River estate PGris 2020\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-PGris-2020-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-PGris-2020-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-PGris-2020.jpg 950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-3766677\" data-id=\"3766677\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-55d4c2d elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"55d4c2d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Wilco seems happy to hear this. <i>\u201cOh, I\u2019m so pleased. Neil would never really say that, but his progression out of the 90s into 2000s and then now &#8211; it is definitely the direction in which he went. Bigger, bolder. He started with finesse and then he was chasing the light<\/i>.<\/p><p><i>We talk a lot about \u2018How do we see Pinot?\u2019 Is it typicity? What i think is really important is that when you taste a wine you have a \u2018wow factor\u2019 and you may not immediately think \u2018this is Pinot Gris\u2019 but you immediately think \u2018this is an amazing wine\u2019. That is the pre-requisite of a wine. In some ways it doesn\u2019t matter what variety it is\u201d<\/i>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-14f9095 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"14f9095\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-541372c\" data-id=\"541372c\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-27f0dde elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"27f0dde\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>But to put Martinborough on the map &#8211; one way to do that was to make blockbusters. Definitely a way of getting attraction. And then the guys in Central did the same thing. And the influence of Robert Parker &#8211; where bigger is always best. When I look at Italian wine, you just think \u2018Gosh this is good\u2019 and you don\u2019t know or much care what the varietal is?<\/p><p>The Pinot Gris we taste has lovely, yeast and lees characters, and a cinnamon bun, pastry note too, hiding amongst the texture &#8211; that\u2019s when and where I\u2019m finding it. I ask whether the slow fermentation helps that?<\/p><p>Wilco: <i>\u201cAgain, that really is the time. We\u2019d love to give it even more time. But we need to start selling the wines! Ideally we\u2019d keep it longer, in large format barrels. I do think that generally Pinot Gris outlasts something like Chardonnay. A lot of people just don\u2019t think about Pinot Gris in that way. If you go into some more serious Pinot Gris &#8211; especially say Alsace, the wines have so much body, phenolics and tannin that they have a tremendous capacity to evolve and age. Now, we\u2019ll try four wines. They<\/i>\u2019<i>re all unfiltered and unfined, and there is a theme. I\u2019ll push you through it\u201d<\/i>.<span class=\"Apple-converted-space\">\u00a0<\/span><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-b8a4f1b elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"b8a4f1b\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-b0d58ca\" data-id=\"b0d58ca\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c3b9b5f elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"c3b9b5f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"508\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-1024x708.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6125\" alt=\"Dry River\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-1024x708.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-300x208.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-768x531.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-1536x1063.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2-135x93.jpg 135w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Knowledge-2.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-992f33d elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"992f33d\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-afe886a\" data-id=\"afe886a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-9e58c02 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"9e58c02\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>I find the last one is quite different from the first in terms of style, but I\u2019d say that there is a tangible identity about the fruit and the provenance. I suggest that perhaps the theme is that they are all made by you guys from the same vineyard, and they\u2019re assessing the changes in the wine that they\u2019ve been making along the way?<\/p><p>Wilco: <i>\u201cYes! Our winemaking style and techniques have changed quite a bit, but the vineyard is the same. They are all Dry River Estate single vineyard Pinots. The last one was the \u201913. Then there was the \u201914, \u201917 and the first one that you tried was an \u201918. There was quite an old school approach before &#8211; shorter skin times; and now there is slower fermentation, different approach to extraction &#8211; a lot lower now, but having a slower extraction rather than a forced extraction with punch-downs and pump overs.<\/i><\/p><p><i>What we wanted to see here &#8211; we were thinking about winemaking techniques definitely, but then we also wanted to see the effect of the vineyard. What is our influence on one site, in terms of our evolution. How we are growing and treating the vines. Getting rid of any other noise and just look at Dry River Estate itself. And the impact for example of white reflective mulch?\u201d<\/i><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-ae44f80 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"ae44f80\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-213aaeb\" data-id=\"213aaeb\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-450be41 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"450be41\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinots-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6121\" alt=\"Dry River estate Pinots\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinots-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinots-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinots.jpg 950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-7262b0e\" data-id=\"7262b0e\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-e908f2f elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"e908f2f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>So, I want to know &#8211; what do they notice?<\/p><p>Again, Wilco is easy with an answer &#8211; <i>\u201cWe are so much happier now. The intensity of some of the aromatics, but also for me, I enjoy the fruit a lot more. A bit more \u2018decaying fruit\u2019. I can see why now, eight years on, people like that wine. But for me, I so clearly remember this wine in the winery and it was exactly what i was trying to see in a Pinot. I really do hope that in five years time, that this (the \u201918) is a better version of that (the \u201913)<\/i>.<i>It\u2019s fascinating. We can\u2019t just be sitting here making wines. We have to think about it. How do we evolve and progress and break through the mould\u201d.<\/i>\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-72bc5c2 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"72bc5c2\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-0fafe12\" data-id=\"0fafe12\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-a695b10 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"a695b10\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Now Sam has a question, not really for me, but one that he is asking out loud\u2026 <i>\u201cWhat is a Dry River wine? Like a Rousseau or a Daggenau. Those wines are signature of not only a beautiful terroir of where they\u2019re from, but they have a style\u201d<\/i>.<\/p><p>I answer with another question:<b> <i>\u201c<\/i><\/b><i>What do you think the customer is going to think of what you\u2019re doing though? I understand that you\u2019re happy with his development and it\u2019s what you want to do with it &#8211; but what about the consumer who has being buying Dry River for twenty years will think\u201d?<\/i><\/p><p><b>Wilco: <i>\u201c<\/i><\/b><i>So the whole approach to it all was like small steps. Not that in one night we\u2019re going to change things. But what I think really had to happen was an evolution of how we go, with the time. We are moving into biodynamic viticulture and we have to think like that as well. If that changes and we\u2019re staying the same, and trying to hold on to that \u2018this is what Neil used to do\u2019 philosophy, then we\u2019re probably going to lose a lot of customers as well. The idea of progressing and listening to feedback.<\/i><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-f04975a elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"f04975a\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-c71c0b2\" data-id=\"c71c0b2\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6dbe1a9 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"6dbe1a9\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"442\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2-1024x616.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6129\" alt=\"Dry River wine bottles\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2-1024x616.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2-300x180.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2-768x462.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2-1536x924.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-bottles-2.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-3e1e2f3 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"3e1e2f3\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f139bbd\" data-id=\"f139bbd\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-a9abac5 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"a9abac5\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><i>The best ever example was a Chardonnay tasting we did a few years back in Auckland. We were always about no malo, and someone made a comment \u201cbut the wines are the same &#8211; it hasn\u2019t really evolved\u201d. I think the malic acid stood out so much that people couldn\u2019t see how they had actually evolved, so I though \u2018that\u2019s a really good comment\u2019\u201d<\/i>.<\/p><p>Sometimes it only takes a single comment like that to set a line of dominos falling, that leads to real breakthroughs. Curt Thomas is a keen drinker of Dry River &#8211; and has some background on what\u2019s been going on\u2026<i>\u201cOne of the things that Wilco did behind the scenes, about 18 months ago, was that he picked out a selection of customers, and I was one of them. We were on the phone for about 45 minutes. Just about Dry River and what they were and what they might be in the future, and how I felt about that. If they introduced different varieties for example, or refine their offering. I thought that was incredibly respectful of their customers\u201d<\/i>.<\/p><p>I make the point that, really,<b> <\/b>everyone has to stop and think about what they\u2019re doing and why, to stay relevant.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-4cab672 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"4cab672\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-d492ec2\" data-id=\"d492ec2\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5b84930 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"5b84930\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>The final point comes from Wilco, again: <i>\u201cLike, if you have a Cellar Door. The worst thing you can do is to put someone in there who hasn\u2019t got any connection to the business. You\u2019re at the coal face and you have to get to know what people say, and like, and the feedback. You need to hear that. And across all categories, of what people have to say. That question &#8211; \u2018Why am I here and why am I doing this?\u2019 that\u2019s the thing that keeps you going, right? Like Sam coming on board. His role is quite different from the role that in the past. He\u2019s a lot more invested and involved in the really critical decisions. It\u2019s better to get all that input\u201d.<\/i><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-41ff33c\" data-id=\"41ff33c\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-ba8a968 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"ba8a968\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinot-Gris-93-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-6120\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinot-Gris-93-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinot-Gris-93-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Dry-River-estate-Pinot-Gris-93.jpg 950w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I\u2019m at Dry River on an afternoon visit as part of the \u2018Pinot Day\u2019 weekend extravganaza. On our side there\u2019s John Ingles, Gabor Sarescky and Curt Thomas &#8211; and we\u2019re &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":6151,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-6117","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>A visit to Dry River Estate, Martinborough - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6117\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"A visit to Dry River Estate, Martinborough - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"I\u2019m at Dry River on an afternoon visit as part of the \u2018Pinot Day\u2019 weekend extravganaza. On our side there\u2019s John Ingles, Gabor Sarescky and Curt Thomas &#8211; and we\u2019re &hellip;\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=6117\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/wine.folio.1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2022-07-17T22:35:21+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2022-07-18T19:03:33+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2022\/07\/Wilco-and-Sam-at-sorting-table-1.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"960\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"11 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"David Walker Bell\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/8b8706e15ba32f9782222c431fa75d9f\"},\"headline\":\"A visit to Dry River Estate, Martinborough\",\"datePublished\":\"2022-07-17T22:35:21+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2022-07-18T19:03:33+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117\"},\"wordCount\":2038,\"commentCount\":1,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2022\\\/07\\\/Wilco-and-Sam-at-sorting-table-1.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Features\",\"Winemaker Series\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=6117\",\"name\":\"A visit to Dry River Estate, Martinborough - 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