{"id":5728,"date":"2022-05-26T07:30:19","date_gmt":"2022-05-25T19:30:19","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=5728"},"modified":"2022-05-26T07:38:08","modified_gmt":"2022-05-25T19:38:08","slug":"dancing-petrel-vineyard-northland","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=5728","title":{"rendered":"Dancing Petrel Vineyard, Northland"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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One of the furthest-north vineyards I\u2019ve visited is at Dancing Petrel<\/strong> up in Northland – where I visited Kim Gilkison after a tip-off from Rod McIvor at Marsden Estate (who makes their wines) that this was a trip not to be missed \u2014 if I was up for a drive. It\u2019s a good few kilometres up the road from Kerikeri, at Paewhenua Island; but the views from the Tasting Room, overlooking the water across to Mangonui, are breathtaking. The vineyard is pretty easy on the eye too \u2014 check out the photos on their website at www.dancingpetrel.co.nz<\/p>

I start off discussing how we\u2019d met at Winetopia one time, before I knew much about them, as Kim gets out a selection of wines for tasting…<\/p>

Kim Gilkison<\/strong>: This is our Arneis – did we have this at Winetopia?<\/p>

Winefolio<\/strong>: If you did, I didn\u2019t try it. You don\u2019t see much of it around, so I think I\u2019d have remembered it.<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: It was already here and I really didn\u2019t know anything about it. We took the vineyard over in 2019, so we didn\u2019t plant any of the grapes \u2014 they were planted in 2006. We took Rod\u2019s advice and used wild yeast to ferment it. It\u2019s a bit different from the other people\u2019s Arneis I\u2019ve tried.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It must be a couple of years since I\u2019ve had one. I know Villa Maria were doing one for a while, but they\u2019ve stopped, I think. It was really good. I reckon Arneis is a really bright and fresh, food-friendly white wine. A twist on the \u2018usual\u2019 thing that you\u2019d get \u2014 like Albarino is?<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: When I first tried it I thought \u2018hmm, yeah, I don\u2019t know – I\u2019ll have to think about that!\u2019 But I think it has quite a bit of body for what it is. It\u2019s a bit different and it has been popular, so we\u2019ve been happy with that. It looks scrawny in the vineyard. Compared to the other vines that have been in for the same length of time. But we\u2019ve started spur-pruning it and it is making a huge difference. One of the people that\u2019s helping in the vineyard, he\u2019s taken a particular interest in it.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: So what made you want to take over a vineyard up here?<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: We had an engineering company, and we bought the house in 2012 – it was the original cottage. We sold our business in \u201913 and then we had three years to work through that. I renovated the cottage in between going to Brisbane, and it was about 2017 when I was up here and I realised \u201cI\u2019d moved\u201d (laughs). And I love it up here. The people who were here wanted to sell the vineyard, and I looked at it and it seemed such a pity to see it disappear, so I took it over. I didn\u2019t have anything to do at that time \u2014 for two weeks (more laughing). Been pretty busy ever since, but I have really enjoyed it.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Does it help having someone like Rod on hand?<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

KG<\/strong>: Yes, it does, but we were really lucky as well that Monty has been in the industry for such a long time, and he\u2019s downsizing his vineyard, so I got a couple of his workers. People that actually know what they\u2019re doing. And Joe who has been his Manager for ever comes over every week and we go through what we should be doing. Plus the Wine Group in Northland is really supportive. If you\u2019ve got a problem with something you can ask them. Mark Nobilo comes up and he\u2019s sitting here and he says \u201cWell, I did advise someone else not to buy the vineyard, because it\u2019s a lot of work\u201d<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve heard a few points of view recently, from people who are happy just to be growers and ask themselves \u201cwhy would I then bother with all of the making of the wine, and then the sales, marketing, distribution and so on?\u201d<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: I guess for us though \u2014 having a label that is just ours is quite cool. Locally, there\u2019s Carrington estate and there\u2019s Monty over at Kaitaia; and so in some ways it is quite a good market because we\u2019re getting a lot of local loyalty and they\u2019re enjoying the wine which is good. Our Tannat is sold out after Michael Cooper gave it a five star review. Normally we have three reds \u2014 the Cabernet Franc, Syrah and Tannat. There\u2019s not much Tannat in the country so it\u2019s been very popular. The Duke of Marlborough have been very good with that, so we get people heading our way specifically for our Tannat and our Viognier.<\/p>

We have a few unusual wines, which is good and bad. It\u2019s good in the Tasting room because people quite enjoy trying something different. The local restaurants like the Pinot Gris, Cabernet Franc and the Rose\u0301, and a bit of Viognier. They don\u2019t tend to get into the different wines so much, and that\u2019s fine as those are our biggest crops anyway.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: They have a great local flavour up there. Considering how busy it is and they could probably just pump out anonymous wine bottle after bottle. It\u2019s really good to see them championing the local flavours. I like that a lot. You get the local support, but I suppose you get the tourists who hopefully come up on their holidays and take a case back with the stories?<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: I put some Chambourcin in last year, but then my father got sick and I forgot to get people to water it whilst I was away in Auckland. We\u2019ve also planted some Chardonnay, more Syrah and some Gewurz. Mark said \u2018Whatever you do, don\u2019t plant something just because you like it\u2019 (laughs) So I\u2019m telling him what I\u2019ve done \u2014 \u2018I\u2019ve planted the Gewurz just because I like it!!\u2019 As Rod said \u2014 you\u2019ve gotta have fun.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And we\u2019ve been pretty lucky because since we took over every season has been good. Up here has been good for visitors because people have been coming here rather than overseas. We\u2019ve had visitors coming here, from South Island who have never been here, and they can\u2019t believe how nice it is! We\u2019ve done quite well out of it, and some restaurants are busier than ever.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I just had lunch at Marsden and it\u2019s absolutely heaving. But is the wine going well?<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>

KG<\/strong>: It is going well. We have quite a bit of our Pinot Gris and Viognier, so I do need to get it further afield. Now is a push to do more distribution. That side of it is not easy. And we\u2019re thinking of putting a Tasting Room up at the top.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: And why wouldn\u2019t you? It is ridiculously easy on the eye. That view from up there is quite special.<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: We get a lot of people coming from referrals now, which is great. Some of it is that we just have this really informal sitting around a table doing a tasting way, and that would change. But the other side of it is people are always wanting to have a light lunch or platters and so on.\u00a0So far people have to make a bit of effort to come. Which is fine because then they buy a bit of wine!<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve heard quite a bit of chatter about Viognier recently which is good, and also Pinot Gris – which I\u2019m keener on than a lot of people. People who haven\u2019t really bothered with those before are drinking and buying quite a bit of it now.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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KG<\/strong>: You should try our Pinot Gris then! What do you think the move is, for Pinot Gris, as far as the style goes?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think for it to be taken seriously \u2014 it\u2019s that bigger, weightier style, with a subtle oak influence. Needs to be able to put some age on if it is a serious wine. Still with a nice mineral line. I had this conversation though recently with another winemaker, and they have definitely gone for drier.<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: That\u2019s interesting, because I\u2019ve been going for a drier style. What I like is when people try it at a restaurant and then come over and buy it.<\/p>

I didn\u2019t enter these at the shows this year, I got a bit disillusioned. We only got Bronze medals. The timing wasn\u2019t really right for our wines this year. We\u2019ll do it next year. We\u2019re lucky we have Rod making our wine.<\/div>
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WF<\/strong>: I actually think that Northland is under-rated for its wine. There are some magnificent sites, and you\u2019ve got so much going on up here; and then the bigger places now with Omata, Marsden and The Landing. There must surely come a tipping point where you do start to win a truck load of awards.<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: You\u2019ve got to start with a product don\u2019t you? An experienced winemaker learns to do less to the grapes. I quite like \u2018vintage variation\u2019 for example. Rod will probably get sick of asking thirty different growers, but he does ask you how you would like your wine.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: In bottles, preferably, hahahaha.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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KG<\/strong>: He certainly tells you how he thinks it should go, but he listens to the styles that you like.\u00a0Our personal preference is drier wines.<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Aha – so this is your red. The single offering?<\/p>

KG<\/strong>: Yes, our Cabernet Franc. The Tannat is all gone. We got it two days before lockdown so spent some time deciding which one was better. There are apparently high levels of\u00a0those very good red wine benefits in it.<\/span><\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I understand that Cab Franc is a very good blending wine, and when I see that a red blend is 15% Cabernet Franc, I do anticipate that it will be good. And I love it on its own. I refer to it having an umami balsam, resinous quality to it.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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KG: We played around with doing a Tannat-Cab Franc blend but in the end we preferred them as single wines, so we\u2019ve left them alone. The Syrah this year will be fantastic \u2014 like last years. In our first year we didn\u2019t do a Syrah. I\u2019d said to the pickers \u201cDon\u2019t pick past row 50\u201d as we were picking Tannat, but the Syrah was still at 22 brix. But I came back and they\u2019d picked it; so we turned it into a rose\u0301 which was lovely, to be honest. We picked our Pinot Gris as there was a 100mm Rain Warning, and our Gris is the one that gets affected \u2014 so we picked that the day before, and sure enough, there was 100mm of rain. Viognier doesn\u2019t care \u2014 it\u2019s got thick skins and it just carries on. And the Arneis we picked that week, because I looked at it and it was starting to flag. So we got it off and it was good. And reds just took off. It was like a new lease of life.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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So the vineyard is looking good, and the people we\u2019ve got helping are just fantastic. It can be tough up here \u2014 people say \u201coh people don\u2019t want to work, or do this or that…\u201d but so much of that seasonal work is very hard. It can be hard to manage, and to live on; so consistency of workers is a real issue. They take a personal interest in it, and it is all local employment!<\/p>

NOTE – since this interview, Dancing Petrel have won the Trophy for Best Viognier at the NZIWS, with their Double Gold winning Reserve Viognier!<\/strong><\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

One of the furthest-north vineyards I\u2019ve visited is at Dancing Petrel up in Northland – where I visited Kim Gilkison after a tip-off from Rod McIvor at Marsden Estate (who … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":5740,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-5728","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nDancing Petrel Vineyard, Northland - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=5728\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Dancing Petrel Vineyard, Northland - 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