{"id":4385,"date":"2021-09-26T15:45:51","date_gmt":"2021-09-26T03:45:51","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4385"},"modified":"2021-09-26T15:52:57","modified_gmt":"2021-09-26T03:52:57","slug":"winemaker-series-takahiro-koyama","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4385","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Takahiro Koyama"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"4385\" class=\"elementor elementor-4385\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-976e58d elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"976e58d\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-fa616e5\" data-id=\"fa616e5\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-ae62549 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"ae62549\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>I\u2019m in the beautiful Waipara Valley \u2013 here to have a chat with a winemaker who has made some of the most characterful and personality-filled wines (the Pinot Noir in particular) that I\u2019ve tried in recent times &#8211; <strong>Takahiro Koyama <\/strong>of<strong> Mountford Estate <\/strong>and<strong> Koyama.<\/strong> We start with a short stroll into the vineyard \u2013 short as it\u2019s a blustery autumn evening in North Canterbury and, as usual, I\u2019m not entirely dressed warmly enough for it.<\/p><p><strong>WineFolio<\/strong>: It\u2019s so beautiful here.<\/p><p><strong>Takahiro Koyama<\/strong>: It is, we are here hiding from State Highway and we just do the tasting by appointment only. Not that many visitors, but after lockdown more kiwis are coming, and usually we have more international visitors.<\/p><p>The reason why they chose this site is of course the gentle slope and then steeper \u2013 those blocks are named The Gradient, which was planted in 2000 and a single block \u2018The Rise\u2019 planted in 2004, behind the winery. We are slowly expanding the vineyard. On the right is a mixture of four different varieties from Alsace, so Pinot Gris, Riesling, Muscat and Gewuztraminer. We pick those together, ferment together and make one wine. The first vintage was 2009 for those wines.<\/p><p>The Rise is 26 years old but it is struggling. There\u2019s not much nutrient and not much water up there. It produces some really really good grapes but the vines are very small. With the quality we are happy, but the quantity\u2026 If we irrigate we could get more, but we haven\u2019t irrigated for 5-6 years now. Dry farming is good, but you never know \u2013 maybe a drought is coming \u2013 like 2019 and 2020 was so dry. This year wasn\u2019t too bad but they are still struggling. The irrigation is there now and we just have to restore the pump.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-b911704 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"b911704\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-b7b46d4\" data-id=\"b7b46d4\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5974086 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"5974086\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Frost fighting is a mission as well. Here it\u2019s better than the bottom of the slope. This year we used a helicopter and it worked, but not perfect. We lost 50% but some people were worse off. We are going to buy a machine &#8211; a new tow and blow \u2013 that\u2019s our best solution.<\/p><p>In front is our Chardonnay \u2013 mainly Mendoza. We stopped using herbicide, and are doing organic, although we are not certified. We\u2019ll look at the paperwork in the future. I think it\u2019s good for the market as well.<\/p><p><em>We decant to the gorgeous property that sits below the hill and with the lower vineyards spread out in front. I\u2019m keen to try some of the wines and see what Takahiro has been working on.<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-ded483a\" data-id=\"ded483a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-34e9036 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"34e9036\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"980\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/239872399_10159453734437840_6643946040798917985_n-768x1024.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4388\" alt=\"Koyama vineyard\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/239872399_10159453734437840_6643946040798917985_n-768x1024.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/239872399_10159453734437840_6643946040798917985_n-225x300.jpg 225w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/239872399_10159453734437840_6643946040798917985_n.jpg 850w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-3656c14 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"3656c14\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-6345fdb\" data-id=\"6345fdb\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-66a9226 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"66a9226\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I have a couple of bottles of 2011 Mountford Chardonnay and I like to surprise people with it, because I find not many people have had a Chardonnay from Waipara, and certainly not many people have tried Mountford, at all. It\u2019s a really good wine, and the reaction is always \u201cwhoa, that\u2019s amazing\u201d.<\/p><p>Before we get started on the wines &#8211; who built this incredible house by the way?<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: This was Mike and Buffy. This was an old train storage building, and they bought it, pick it up on a truck and brought it here, turned it into a house. I think it was built here in \u201992 or \u201993. It looks older. Michael was a painter and he used to teach art at school, and Buffy is an interior designer. Before they came here it was just bare land, grazing sheep.<\/p><p>Right, this is the <strong>2015 Chardonnay<\/strong> \u2013 actually from before we purchased the property.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m a Chardonnay fan, and some people will say that New Zealand has an identifiable style of it. I think that there is some truth to that, but I also believe that there\u2019s a difference as you come down through Gisborne, then Hawke\u2019s Bay, Wairarapa and into the South island. And when you get to North Canterbury, I find them more alike to Martinborough ones than anything else in the South Island \u2013 other than perhaps the Waikari ones which have their own thing.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-c95b139 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"c95b139\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-73a533b\" data-id=\"73a533b\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f39c509 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"f39c509\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"406\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o-1024x565.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4389\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o-1024x565.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o-300x166.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o-768x424.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o-1536x848.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/31910594_10156344283302840_2152691029558427648_o.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-77d36fa elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"77d36fa\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f789e2a\" data-id=\"f789e2a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-eb0876d elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"eb0876d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>TK<\/strong>: I think Martinborough is a North-South valley. So when they get frosted, we get frosted. It\u2019s a slightly similar climate sometimes. The soil is so different, but climate. Same with the Pinot when we do the blind tasting. It\u2019s easy to tell the difference between Marlborough and here and Central, but sometimes we confuse Martinborough and Waipara.<\/p><p>For everything, we hand harvest and do the sorting in the winery. Chardonnay was whole bunch pressed, then, now, we don\u2019t even settle \u2013 just straight into barrel. And barrel ferment with solids. After the fermentation is finished we start stirring the lees &#8211; once every two weeks. And then Malo is natural. Chardonnay we just keep in the barrel for about eighteen months or so. For whites we like to filter, but we don\u2019t have to.<\/p><p>Lots of people confuse the Koyama and the Mountford label \u2013 it\u2019s under the same company now. I came to New Zealand in 2003 and went to Lincoln to study winemaking. I started working here as a Cellar hand and in the Cellar Door, and then after I graduated, became the assistant winemaker to <strong>CP Lin<\/strong>. And then in 2009 I established my private label whilst I was still working here. In 2007 Michael and Buffy retired as they turned 70, so the second owners Kees and Kathryn took the place over. I left this property in 2012 and was making wine at <strong>The Crater Rim<\/strong> with <strong>Theo Coles<\/strong>, and the Koyama wine for myself. And then, in 2013, CP Lin left here and they were looking for a winemaker.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-9e211a6 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"9e211a6\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-b92f94e\" data-id=\"b92f94e\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-aeeb1df elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"aeeb1df\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"720\" height=\"960\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/166700803_10159145255347840_6982309091334105034_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4390\" alt=\"Koyama winemaking\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/166700803_10159145255347840_6982309091334105034_n.jpg 720w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/166700803_10159145255347840_6982309091334105034_n-225x300.jpg 225w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 720px) 100vw, 720px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-ef138b9\" data-id=\"ef138b9\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-ae2c9d6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"ae2c9d6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Theo Coles\u2019 family used to own 100% share of The Crater Rim, having established the brand. But in 2009 there\u2019s a fire and the whole winery is burnt out. They lost all the wines and all the equipment of course, so although they claimed for the insurance they couldn\u2019t get 100% of the value back. So there was a guy who invested more money in the company and Theo became an employee winemaker, and he didn\u2019t like it of course! And he left, and he came here. And I stayed at The Crater Rim. And then in 2017 Kees and Kathryn wanted to sell this property having been here for ten years but the business not doing well.<\/p><p>I got investment from Japan, so my company decided to purchase this property.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-4e916da elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"4e916da\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-eacf641\" data-id=\"eacf641\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-3ca3ad3 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"3ca3ad3\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>The first couple of years we made wine together with Theo until he found another place and moved out. So now, from 2017, <strong>Koyama Wines<\/strong> owns the Mountford Estate. We decided to keep both brands because there\u2019s a different market.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: OK \u2013 I wasn\u2019t sure quite how that puzzle fitted together. I\u2019ve heard some of the names that you mention. Has it been hard putting your mark on it?<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: Yes. Not just my name or anything, but Mountford Estate had disappeared from the market for a while. And when we took this place over, none of the wines had an export certificate, which means that they didn\u2019t export anything at all. We are still quite strong in the UK, China and Japan also, so when we contacted those distributors they started taking it again. So now we are exporting to seven different countries. Before COVID we exported quite a lot \u2013 60-70% and then 30-40% domestic, but right now it\u2019s the other way round.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Back to the wine \u2013 this is quite different from the wines I drank recently \u2013 those 2011 Chardonnays.<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: Yes, it\u2019s a different winemaker. CP is quite classic in his winemaking; Theo is in a more natural kind of way.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: It has quite a bit of character, whereas I think those 2011s were classic \u2013 juicy, fruity, with a nice dry finish. Everything I\u2019m looking for in a good New Zealand Chardonnay. This has that smell of a winery, a barrel hall \u2013 it\u2019s a \u2018place\u2019 wine. I\u2019ve been exploring the world of natural wines and I find that ones that have a good amount of skin contact are very appealing to me \u2013 this has a little of that.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-876a42a elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"876a42a\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-7034f99\" data-id=\"7034f99\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-419b956 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"419b956\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"551\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/87436323_10158056692427840_7408011157518155776_n.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4391\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/87436323_10158056692427840_7408011157518155776_n.jpg 960w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/87436323_10158056692427840_7408011157518155776_n-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/87436323_10158056692427840_7408011157518155776_n-768x576.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-0c45323 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"0c45323\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-7ebc925\" data-id=\"7ebc925\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-dde0b55 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"dde0b55\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>TK<\/strong>: The Chardonnay is selling really well, and we have a second tier wine from young vines called <strong>Liasion Chardonnay<\/strong> so now we are onto selling that as we run out of the Estate wine. Before they expanded this vineyard in 2009, we used to buy the grapes from other growers, but once this block started producing grapes we stopped buying. Now under the Mountford label it is 100% from here.<\/p><p>This Pinot Noir is from 2017 and from the <strong>Williams Vineyard<\/strong> next door. It has the same soil type but faces more directly north, so slightly warmer than here. A little bit of a wet vintage in 2017, although 2018 was really, really wet. I like the 2018 wine because it\u2019s a pinot-ish Pinot. Not really dark and fruity &#8211; a bit different from normal.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: For me the colour of a Pinot isn\u2019t what really informs me, it\u2019s the smell of it.<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: I agree. If you do the blind tasting and you smell it, you already know. If you don\u2019t know, then you don\u2019t\u2026 but the smell would tell you a lot.<\/p><p>We pick by hand and for this one, we used a bit of whole bunch. Up on the hill, the stems get ripe. Normally we use about 30%. I don\u2019t like carbonic macerations so when we use whole bunch someone has to jump in and crush all the grapes. And then de-stemmed on top. Do the pump over at this stage until the fermentation starts. Once fermentation starts we do the plunging twice a day. Post ferment is not too long \u2013 about a week, ten days maybe. Then press it off, settle overnight and into barrel. Natural malo and, for this one, in barrel for eighteen months. Rack it off, settle again in tank and then straight into bottle.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-8f70685 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"8f70685\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-143c508\" data-id=\"143c508\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-9666b2f elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"9666b2f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"289\" height=\"1024\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-289x1024.png\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4392\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-289x1024.png 289w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-85x300.png 85w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-768x2724.png 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-433x1536.png 433w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18-578x2048.png 578w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-S-Pinot-Noir-18.png 800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 289px) 100vw, 289px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-fd23d8c\" data-id=\"fd23d8c\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7f3d0ba elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"7f3d0ba\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>I don\u2019t want to call it a natural wine, but naturally made! The grapes from this block on the Gradient are always really nice. The Gradient is more north facing so a little bit bigger wine usually.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: It has a smoky earthiness to it, and a beautiful acidity.<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: Climate wise, even if it gets over thirty degrees in the day in January \u2013 the night time temperature is around ten to fifteen degrees. The season is getting a little bit shorter over these last three years.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I see you have \u2018North Canterbury\u2019 on your labels \u2013 how do you see that new style of regional definition going forward, because you would have been \u2018Waipara\u2019 for a long time?<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: We have to \u2013 New Zealand Winegrowers told us to change the name. We can still put the Waipara name on there. When we are talking about the wine we always say Waipara.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Well it\u2019s both isn\u2019t it. It is as well. You are Waipara, North Canterbury.<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: This one has about 50% whole bunch.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-d2c4314 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"d2c4314\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f2896cb\" data-id=\"f2896cb\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-65d1dc8 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"65d1dc8\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"551\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4393\" alt=\"Koyama Winery\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/IMG_4276.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-83048ef elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"83048ef\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-fd5ff46\" data-id=\"fd5ff46\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c44aef7 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"c44aef7\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Richer, broader, and the tannin has bit more grip. Nice balance between the acidity and the tannin. Sometimes I find Pinot is one or the other \u2013 built on acidity or built on tannin, and it\u2019s rare to find something where you could say it was either, or both.<\/p><p>Have you had good reviews and scores for the wines?<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: Yes, Bob likes our wine. This one was chosen for \u2018Wine of the Week\u2019. It helps (laughs). It\u2019s nearly sold out now.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: This wine (the Williams Vineyard Pinot Noir) is 100% destemmed? There\u2019s a real purity to this one and a power that comes from that. Lovely driving acidity.<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: Yes, it\u2019s a really nice vineyard &#8211; we buy the grapes for this one. Try to make a lower alcohol, like 14%. One thing that changed from 2000 to 2010 is that winemakers were interested in ripeness \u2013 always riper, riper. So when they pick the brix are high. And then most of the wine is over 14.5% alcohol. In 2009 people say it\u2019s a fantastic, perfect vintage, but you end up with 15% alcohol. I start thinking \u2013 this is not right.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: So looking forward, what\u2019s the future for you?<\/p><p><strong>TK<\/strong>: To be honest, when we took over this place, the condition of some of the vineyard was so bad and it took 2-3 years to come back to normal. Of course then to stop using herbicide, put in a proper spraying programme and everything. But we\u2019re not quite there yet, I think. Vine health is coming back but it might take another two or three years. And then we\u2019ve got to start producing good quality, good volume wine from here. But at the same time we have to think about our climate changing as well. And that\u2019s why we planted the nebbiolo on the hill. It might work, it might not, we\u2019ll see.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-7053516 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"7053516\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-8fa68b8\" data-id=\"8fa68b8\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-5f9fc89 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"5f9fc89\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>We have a spring on the hill, and it is naturally flowing so we don\u2019t have to use a pump. That\u2019s the water that we use, and the other thing to consider is our carbon footprint as well. We use a lot of corks, and carbon footprint-wise that\u2019s much better than a screwcap. Now they are even producing a cork called Lanaditech that is 100% TCA-free, which we might bring in\u2026 but it\u2019s expensive! Right now we can only use corks for expensive wines. But in the future we might bring everything back to cork \u2013 against the trend. I believe cork is more ecological. We\u2019re also looking at smaller things \u2013 we put solar panels on our warehouse, so we can save energy.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-9c8d00c\" data-id=\"9c8d00c\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-434bcf0 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"434bcf0\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Last year we had really bad frosts. Winter was warm and then suddenly Spring came and it was minus three degrees for nine hours. Of course everybody did everything to protect the vines but sometimes it\u2019s not enough. And the same thing happened in France this year. That kind of thing is happening, so we have to prepare for that. We\u2019ll do whatever we can.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: What else do you think is going to be a big thing for New Zealand?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-2931246 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"2931246\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-2d3aa68\" data-id=\"2d3aa68\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-cc81fb9 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"cc81fb9\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"442\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017-1024x616.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-4384\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017-1024x616.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017-300x181.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017-768x462.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017-1536x924.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/09\/Koyama-Williams-V-PNoir-2017.jpg 1600w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-432c727 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"432c727\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-f4ce419\" data-id=\"f4ce419\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-7e59f19 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"7e59f19\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>TK<\/strong>: I think there will be a wine shortage, with France and New Zealand 50% down. Maybe the model for the wine industry will change. Buyers are usually stronger than producers, but I think that\u2019s going to change. It\u2019s difficult for New Zealand because compared to somewhere like California, the weather is not stable. Especially in Waipara, Central and Martinborough where apart from 2020 there have been a run of small crops \u2013 \u201917, \u201918 and \u201919, and now. Even in Bordeaux \u2013 they added some new varieties that they are now allowed to grow.<\/p>\n<p><strong>WF<\/strong>: And who would have thought they would make good wine in England? You mentioned that to me when I lived there\u2026 I would have laughed about it! And now it\u2019s $100 a bottle.<\/p>\n<p>Do you think that young people will continue to drink the types of wines that our fathers made, and that our generation still drink now?<\/p>\n<p><strong>TK<\/strong>: I think it depends on the country. In Japan people stopped drinking alcohol, including wine, but also stopped driving cars and motorbikes; stopped travelling overseas. For wine drinking I think that education is quite important.<\/p>\n<p>I think that for New Zealand, fine wine is the best way to survive in a global market. Price and volume we cannot compete with Australia, Chile and Argentina. The weakness of Waipara is that our wine marketing is not good compared to Marlborough Winegrowers and Central Winegrowers. Of course in Marlborough there are some big companies. The Japanese market was big for us \u2013 ten years ago it was the best market &#8211; but now it isn\u2019t growing. Now China is number 1, Hong Kong number 2, Singapore number 3, and Japan is number 4. When we talk to the non-wine drinking people they always say that \u201cwine is difficult and I don\u2019t understand it\u201d. But I don\u2019t think you have to understand it, to drink wine. If you like wine, just drink the wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>I\u2019m in the beautiful Waipara Valley \u2013 here to have a chat with a winemaker who has made some of the most characterful and personality-filled wines (the Pinot Noir in &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4386,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4385","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Winemaker series: Takahiro Koyama - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4385\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Takahiro Koyama - 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