{"id":4003,"date":"2021-07-26T07:48:35","date_gmt":"2021-07-25T19:48:35","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4003"},"modified":"2021-07-26T08:03:05","modified_gmt":"2021-07-25T20:03:05","slug":"kumeu-river-2020-chardonnay-releases","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4003","title":{"rendered":"Kumeu River 2020 Chardonnay releases"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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As last year, I\u2019m at Kumeu River in late July, to taste the new release Estate and single Vineyard Chardonnays as part of their CRU initiative for keen supporters to buy the wines on allocation.\u00a0<\/p>

We\u2019re served a Kumeu River Cremant<\/strong> on arrival \u2013 this is now the fourth incarnation of their sparkling wine, with the first vintage made in 2012. Mostly from the 2015 vintage, spending three years on its yeast lees, and disgorged in December 2019. It\u2019s a blend of 60% Chardonnay and 40% Pinot Noir, with a dosage of around 3.5 grams per litre. The final wine has ended up at 5%. At disgorgement a little older Kumeu River Chardonnay is added \u2013 this time the 2010 Estate Chardonnay got the nod. It\u2019s a really delicious, refreshing dry sparkling wine, probably drier than many Brut-labelled Champagnes.<\/p>

The brand new 2020 releases are from \u201can fantastically outstanding Vintage\u201d. It was only 12 months ago that we heard from Paul, Milan and Michael about how wonderful the wines from 2019 were, but according to Paul \u201c2020 has probably pipped them at the post\u201d. A long, dry summer has added to the plushness in the wines on offer.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Everything at Kumeu River is made in a similar way \u2013 all hand-harvested, processed at the site at Kumeu, fermented using wild yeast, and most of the wines are put in oak barrels, with a varying degree of new oak. All go through 100% malolactic fermentation, and then aged on lees for about 11 months.<\/p>

The first wine in the line-up is the one that was the first Chardonnay that the Brajkovich family made, of this nature \u2013 in 1985, and the one that has probably made the label\u2019s international reputation \u2013 The Kumeu River Estate Chardonnay<\/strong>. This wine has always been a selection of the best of the Kumeu sites – the single vineyard expressions came later on. Not all the vineyards that go into the Estate are owned by Kumeu River, and one of the vineyards that used to provide fruit for the Estate, on Trig Road, has now been lost to property development.<\/p>

The 2020 sees 20% new oak, as in previous years, but shows it a little more than usual, with a spiced nose of cardamom, citrus, chamomile, elderflower and toasted cashews. Concentrated and slightly flinty with peach, yellow apple and greengage flavours. That oak warmth is tempered by a spritzy, grapefruit-edged acidity.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I\u2019m always on alert to taste the Rays Road Chardonnay<\/strong> \u2013 from their developing limestone vineyard, inland on a fairly remote hillside at Ruakaka in Hawke\u2019s Bay. Milan explains: \u201cWe have spent a bit of time over the last twenty years looking at spots, including in Hawke\u2019s bay, and been interested in limestone, so when Paul saw this we rushed down and took a look. Unfortunately it was mostly planted with Sauvignon Blanc, but we\u2019re fixing that problem!\u201d<\/p>

The vineyard now has 12 hectares replanted with Chardonnay, and is now being farmed without irrigation in an effort to drive the vine roots deep into the limestone to extract that mineral character. It\u2019s definitely the one in the line up to pay close attention to \u2013 the jump up in quality is quite marked from 2018 to now.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Fermented in mostly well-seasoned barrels, it shows a taut oyster-shell chalkiness on the nose, with lemon blossom and hazelnut. On the palate it shows more of that distinctive flintiness but with a lime zest and a fleshy peach character. Zingy acidity puts a real spring in its step.<\/p>

Mate\u2019s vineyard has always been a single vineyard wine, but it was only in 2006 that the Coddington<\/strong> vineyard fruit was bottled as a single vineyard wine. On heavy clay, a north-facing suntrap, it\u2019s a step up from the first two, with the ripest, richest character of all the wines. The yield in 2020 is down about 25% due to a frost event in November \u2013 and Paul explains \u2013 \u201cwith all the mixed cases that have been prepared for the CRU members in the last month, it\u2019s used up all the Coddington, so there\u2019s basically none left\u201d.<\/p>

It is a very ripe, forward style of Chardonnay. There\u2019s a vibrant acidity that balances the unctuous fruit character. Pear, stone fruit and a bright minerality. Good, obvious, toasty oak that suits the character. I\u2019m happy with it now, but it will harmonise more over time in bottle.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Hunting Hill<\/strong> is the vineyard that sits above Mates Vineyard, across the road from the winery, and elevated, so a slightly cooler site. A very fragrant style, with a distinctive lemon\/lime blossom fragrance. Long and persistant on the palate, it is often quite close-knit and taut at first, but this year seems supple and ready to go. Citrus, tarragon, crisp and linear, with roast chestnut, peach and crushed oyster shell minerality amongst the \u00a0layers of flavours. Leaner and less showy than both it\u2019s Kumeu neighbours, but with a finesse that often makes it people\u2019s favourite. The persistant floral character keep going right through to the long, slightly quartz-like finish.<\/p>

Originally thought of as a source block for the Estate Chardonnay, but from the first vintage of 1993 Paul describes Mate\u2019s Vineyard<\/strong> as being \u201csignificantly different, it warranted to be left on its own \u2013 and as it\u2019s gotten older, it\u2019s gotten better. After ten years we saw a step up and after twenty years another step up again. It\u2019s certainly the most densely concentrated Chardonnay of all the wines we make.\u201d<\/p>

It has usually been my favourite of the range with a brooding depth to it that even its siblings can\u2019t match. Michael notes that \u201cThis is 100% Mendoza, which has a propensity to have hen and chicken berries, with full size berries and tiny little intensely flavoured ones – and that\u2019s part of the concentration.\u201d<\/p>

Smoky and concentrated with notes of preserved lemon, biscotti and nectarine. Floral with spring flowers, and a powerful richness on the palate. Flinty, juicy with golden peach, oatmeal, nougat and freshly sliced pear. It shows real finesse \u2013 the oak is gorgeous and opulent, contrasting with the spine of tensely coiled acidity. Elegant, infinitely desireable. Happy to have decided on having a few of these in my CRU<\/strong> box.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We end the session with a trip down to the barrel hall to taste some of the 2021 wines. Last year there was a Mate’s from a single new barrel that blew me away with the power and personality – this year Michael has chosen samples from a few barrels in advance in order to present a more balanced view than can be gained from a single barrel example. However, the 2021 Hunting Hill<\/strong> was the wine that raised the hairs on the back of your arm this time. Given the growing popularity and notoreity of these Single Vineyard wines now, you might want to join the CRU to ensure you an access them in the future…<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

As last year, I\u2019m at Kumeu River in late July, to taste the new release Estate and single Vineyard Chardonnays as part of their CRU initiative for keen supporters to … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":4004,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-4003","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nKumeu River 2020 Chardonnay releases - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=4003\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Kumeu River 2020 Chardonnay releases - 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