{"id":3779,"date":"2021-06-25T05:37:32","date_gmt":"2021-06-25T05:37:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3779"},"modified":"2021-06-25T05:43:24","modified_gmt":"2021-06-25T05:43:24","slug":"johner-estate-wairarapa","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3779","title":{"rendered":"Johner Estate, Wairarapa"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Late afternoon, I drive down to the end of Dakins Road in Gladstone and spend an hour at the Cellar Door of Johner Estate<\/strong>. This was a place suggested to me by Jim at Finer Wines<\/strong> in Katikati after we had a chat about some Pinot Noir that I was looking at. I mentioned I\u2019d be in the region and Johner came with his strong recommendation. With border restrictions, the owner, Karl is still overseas, and Raphael has just returned. At the Cellar Door however, Kat McCaw is a fantastic host who takes me through a range of the current releases.<\/p>

Kat McCaw<\/strong>: What do you do with WineFolio \u2013 you seem to have a lot of different articles on there?<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: I\u2019m a writer, rather than a reviewer, or a critic. Since I\u2019ve lived in New Zealand I\u2019ve done a lot of Tourism work, including things like Cycling and Touring Route type products for tourists. Now I have a focus on wine, and with a background in Tourism, I apply that to wine and tell the stories of the wine regions and talk to the people. A bit of what I do would still be considered tourism, just looking at wine. I take the time to come and visit. And people genuinely seem keen to have people come and see them.<\/p>

KM<\/strong>: Wairarapa tends to get overlooked. Everyone talks about Hawke\u2019s Bay and Marlborough of course, and Wairarapa gets a bit left out which is a shame.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I don\u2019t think that\u2019s a reflection on your wines though. Queenstown, which with Central Otago arguably as your biggest competition in wine – because the perception is that both regions are key producers of Pinot Noir \u2013 just blasts everywhere out of the water. Just looking at the wine, there\u2019s nothing between the two regions \u2013 you just take your pick which wines your prefer, but when it comes to the perception of Central Otago versus Wairarapa? That\u2019s a contest you\u2019re not winning. I would think that Wairarapa was as popular as Hawke\u2019s Bay – with Wellington on your doorstep? You\u2019re seen as the Waiheke Island of the Lower North Island. Where Aucklanders go there, Wellingtonians come to Wairarapa.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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KM<\/strong>: We\u2019ve got a lot of sheep! We\u2019re quite small fry. Karl has a winery in Germany and a lot of money has been spent on that, and this is the New Zealand branch, which is quite modest. Our views here are probably one of the best around though. You go to Martinborough and a lot of them are quite closed in, and you don\u2019t get the views. We do have quite a bit of beautiful scenery within easy distance \u2013 Cape Palliser is lovely, and Castlepoint is considered a go-to place. There\u2019s some beautiful vineyards and wineries to see, as well as things like hiking trails.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m following the Great New Zealand Wine Route \u2013 I\u2019ve driven down here from Napier and Martinborough is my end destination. No-one pays me to do this \u2013 I\u2019m not sponsored to come down by a Wine or a Regional Tourism body, so I\u2019m totally independent. You\u2019ll get some writers who\u2019ll only come if someone pays them to.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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KM: Here, try this wine \u2013 it\u2019s our new Pinot Gris. Obviously as you\u2019ll have heard, the 2020 vintage was fantastic in most of New Zealand. \u201919 was really good too as they were both hot summers. 2019 was slower to start and the berries were small. We didn\u2019t get as much juice but it was good quality. 2020 we got everything \u2013 quantity and quality. People who love their Pinot Gris, love this. It\u2019s got so much flavour. It comes from this vineyard but also we got some from a neighbouring vineyard as well. The soils are similar and climate is the same. We only lease one other vineyard, just out of Masterton. If our label has Wairarapa on it, then it\u2019s from the two vineyards. If it has Gladstone on it, it\u2019s just from this one \u2013 Gladstone Block we call it. A lot of stone in our soil because this was an old river bed a long time ago. It drives the vineyard workers crazy when they\u2019re trying to get a tractor down there, as it\u2019s so rocky.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Everything is hand-picked here \u2013 used to be students, and I don\u2019t know what we\u2019re going to do next year. We\u2019ll have to cobble together a few people to do picking. They used to come out from Germany, stay on site and be such a great asset for us.<\/p>

Of course you\u2019ve got to have a Riesling if you\u2019re a German-owned vineyard. This is an off-dry style with a bit of citrus coming through, which makes it quite refreshing. We have two Rieslings and the other one is a low-alcohol one. Great with fish and seafood that one. When you first open it, it has a little effervescence in it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you get busy down here at the Cellar Door?<\/p>

KM<\/strong>: Saturdays are quite busy, but Karl made the call that we wouldn\u2019t open on Sundays, because we\u2019re quite short staffed. During the week it tends to be the odd person comes along. We used to have a lot of foreign tourists in the week, but not now. Commercially we\u2019re doing really well \u2013 busy with sales to supermarkets like New World in Wellington and Wairarapa, and a lot of restaurants and bottle stores. We\u2019re busier than this time last year, and a lot of people have found that. That keeps us going. We wouldn\u2019t be here if we relied on the Cellar Door. Do you have a favourite wine style that you like?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Chardonnay is my favourite wine, at all, so that\u2019s what I\u2019ll turn to if I\u2019m just having a wine. And for reds, it definitely used to be Pinot Noir. But I\u2019m really getting into New Zealand Syrahs now, and I\u2019m finding they are becoming quite Pinot like as well, so maybe that\u2019s something to do with that? I don\u2019t tend to go for the really big reds; they\u2019re just not for me.<\/p>

KM<\/strong>: You\u2019ll have to try our Syrah. This first Pinot Noir is from Wairarapa and from younger vines. So it\u2019s a light, easy-drinking Pinot Noir, and can be chilled in summer to be quite refreshing. One of our biggest sellers, and I guess price point comes into that as well. But the Gladstone, the next one up, is my favourite, and a lot of people once they taste it, they can tell the difference! The Pinots down here can vary quite a bit.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I don\u2019t always prefer the ones as you go up the steps. Quite often I\u2019ll be given the full range, and I will like the entry level ones best; or I\u2019ll like the one that is a blend from across sites, rather than a single site expression.<\/p>

KM<\/strong>: And they can be quite different. Central Otago ones can be quite sweet cherry, whereas ours are more savoury. I think it\u2019s such a great grape because as a wine it just goes with anything and it\u2019s so versatile. I think that\u2019s why it\u2019s so popular. A lot of the other, heavier reds you\u2019ve got to have with meat or something.<\/p>

Here are my notes on the wines I tasted \u2013 below:<\/em><\/p>

Chardonnay 2019<\/strong><\/p>

Appetising, elegantly presented roast cashew, mandarin, lemon peel, and oatmeal on the nose. Rich, with good concentration and tension. Citrus and stonefruits, a little tropical emerging with air \u2013 melon and pineapple. Full to medium bodied, quite plush and rounded. Nutty oak influence and a creamy texture.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Pinot Gris 2020<\/strong><\/p>

Approachable with lots of drink young appeal. Classic nose of pear, ginger and elderflower. Almost a candied, roasted concentration to the pear \u2013 syrupy and opulent. Medium bodied, rich, luscious style. Honeyed sweetness and a light marzipan on the finish.<\/p>

Riesling 2019<\/strong><\/p>

Aromatic, showing mineral, almond, red apple and citrus zest aromas. Playful and lively, dancing across the palate – fresh and crisp. Off-dry with the acidity enhanced with a delicate ripe sweetness. Waxy texture, and a lemon meringue pie note coming in towards the finish \u2013 citrus, baking spice and a creamy viscosity.<\/p>

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Wairarapa Pinot Noir 2018<\/strong><\/p>

Lighter colour ruby red, with bright cherry, lilac and redcurrant on the nose. Fruit-driven, with an exuberance and coltish charm. Succulent, ripe and clean \u2013 Campari, cranberry and a dusting of spice.<\/p>

Gladstone Pinot Noir 2017<\/strong><\/p>

Bold and punchy, with a little barnyard funk on the nose. Earthy, with smoked, peaty savoury flavours sitting over the red fruited, damson plum and liquorice in the palate. A dense core and layered complexity. Tannins are chewy, with a little grip, but not dominating. The finish is dry, elegant and shows an oyster shell minerality. Wine of the day.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Gladstone Syrah 2019<\/strong><\/p>

Floral, with violets and thyme, sage on the nose. Elderberry, plum and bramble \u2013 sweet-fruited but precise and poised. Spiced with cinnamon and a sprinkling of toasty oak. Tannins complement the juicy core and lead to a dry, spicy finish.<\/p>

Noble Syrah 2017<\/strong><\/p>

The sweetest on offer at 154 grams of residual sugar, a rare treat. Intense, candied fruits, date, fig, plum, fruit cake flavours. Spice and even a little white pepper character comes through from the fruit. Weighty, mouth-coating and succulent. Well rounded, persistent finish.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Late afternoon, I drive down to the end of Dakins Road in Gladstone and spend an hour at the Cellar Door of Johner Estate. 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