{"id":3495,"date":"2021-05-18T06:35:03","date_gmt":"2021-05-18T06:35:03","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3495"},"modified":"2021-05-18T06:58:06","modified_gmt":"2021-05-18T06:58:06","slug":"soljans-estate-winery-kumeu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3495","title":{"rendered":"Soljans Estate Winery, Kumeu"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Soljans Estate Winery<\/strong> is one of those amazing local wineries that everyone you know has been to. And everyone\u2019s got something good to say about it. Family-run, fifth generation \u2013 a classic West Auckland place. Except there\u2019s not so many of them around now. And on a day when I hear news of another one of our great wineries being in trouble, it\u2019s good to see that the Soljans out in Kumeu<\/strong> are still doing what they know best, and doing well. I caught up with Tyler Soljan<\/strong> out at the Cellar Door for a chat and a glass of wine.<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: Tyler, obviously I\u2019ve been here before \u2013 more than once \u2013 we came I remember on one of the open days from Wineries out West and those of us who came still talk about the riddling boards and the Methode wines. So. I\u2019d say you\u2019re still kind of old school. You\u2019re known for the heritage and that you\u2019re now 5th<\/sup>\u00a0generation?<\/p>

Tyler Soljan<\/strong>: Yes, still do things traditionally as much as we can with some modern adaptations I suppose. People come for a bit of everything. Because we\u2019ve got the caf\u00e9, you\u2019ll get some people come in and not actually realise about the wine side! They\u2019re just coming in because it\u2019s a neat place to come to in the area. Some will come specifically because they\u2019ve heard of the brand, or they\u2019ve seen our port somewhere. Tried it and realised we\u2019re pretty close to Auckland so they can pop out and see us. A bit of everything.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve heard of people who\u2019ve come out to lunch and said \u2018yeah the wine\u2019s really good\u2019\u2026 and I\u2019m like \u2018umm, yes, you\u2019d think so \u2013 didn\u2019t you go because of the wine?\u2019 But they had just been invited out for lunch and hadn\u2019t known.<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Yes, the caf\u00e9 has become sort of its own thing. We started out doing only wine, but slowly built on the caf\u00e9. We were originally on Lincoln Road<\/strong>, and that was rural once. It was a big trek out from Auckland city once. Now you\u2019d never have thought that it was full of vineyards. But now Kumeu is developing very very quickly and lots going on. A few wineries still out here which is good.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: And I think the redevelopment of that site into the Hunting Lodge<\/strong>, which a lot of people have heard of now, is good. People I know, who aren\u2019t particularly into wine, like to go there because it\u2019s a cool Sunday afternoon thing to do. Westbrook<\/strong> seems to be doing well too. And of course Kumeu River<\/strong> up the road. What\u2019s your relationship with them? Do you two help each other out, or are you rivals?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Never rivals. If one fails we all fail. If we all succeed it\u2019s better for everyone. It stems back from Lincoln Road, 60 years ago, working together as families in the industry in the early days, and that\u2019s continued. My grandfather works closely with them and we each borrow machinery.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And you guys went back to Croatia for a trip \u2013 I\u2019m sure I saw a photo of you looking about 15 years old?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: That was about 2015. Grandparents took the whole family over. That was incredible going back, seeing where the family is from. Seeing the old house, it was a pretty cool experience to go round with the family. The land is the longest recorded continually cultivated place in the world. So winemaking goes back a long time in that part of the world.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: What do they think, now that you guys now make wine here in New Zealand? I mean if I tell people back in the UK that I write <\/em>a bit about wine \u2013 they\u2019re impressed! So, making wine \u2013 that would be very well received!<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: We are the third longest running family winemakers in the country. Babich<\/strong> are over a hundred years, and then Pleasant Valley<\/strong>. We have vineyards around the building here, and then we contract grow in Gisborne, Hawke\u2019s Bay and Marlborough, working with smaller growers. Typically it\u2019s the same people very year that we work with, and we find that works quite well.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: The wine that won our Top 10 Tasting<\/strong> of Pinot Gris \u2013 that was from here though wasn\u2019t it? That was cool. Once again, there was a slight reaction of \u201cwell I knew they made wine\u2026 but this is really, really good!!\u201d<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Over the generations I think we\u2019ve slowly built our reputations on making good wines, with a couple of standouts. But generally there\u2019s a really good standard level. And then recently we\u2019re trying to make those more outstanding wines as well, to be noticed a bit more.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Now, you were saying there\u2019s a story behind your malbec?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: We do themed dinners \u2013 a cuisine from around the world once a month. We started off with Croatia, being our heritage. One of our Japanese chefs was really keen so we did a Japanese dinner. We then did an Argentinian style BBQ here. And of course Argentina is known for their Malbec<\/strong>. But we don\u2019t make a straight Malbec, so I asked my grandad if we could bring down a barrel of our Hawke\u2019s Bay Malbec and people could taste it on the night. We sold it on the night by the glass. It was a real big popular seller, as you would expect, but probably better than we\u2019d thought! We then convinced my grandad to let us bottle off a couple of barrels \u2013 so we did \u2013 unfined, unfiltered. And just the neck tag is the label, and it\u2019s been a very popular seller here since we\u2019ve had it.<\/p>

When you\u2019ve got the opportunity to do something new like that \u2013 why not!? We could have just blended it in, but then that\u2019s lost and nothing special comes of it \u2013 other than the wines that we usually produce. Being a small run, there\u2019s a bit of risk, but as far as the reward \u2013 as well as the ability to have it yourself \u2013 I love a straight malbec which is one of the reasons I wanted to do it!! (laughs).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: With your growers are you down there often talking about what it is you\u2019re after?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: It\u2019s been developed over the years, where we understand the grower and they get to know what we want. My grandad visits countless times, and I\u2019m starting to go down a bit more. Talked about picking and harvest because we work together.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s your part in the business \u2013 are you learning all aspects of the family trade?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: a bit of everywhere. I do everything from helping with vintage and harvest, help with winemaking, to wine sales, marketing, Cellar Door, helping with events. You\u2019ve got to do everything in a smaller family business.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Eventually I\u2019d like to make more of the wine. I\u2019m always interested in that. I like the science side of that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well that\u2019s a good start, because I think a lot of people think it\u2019s going to be flamboyant and artistic.<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: My grandad always says: \u201850% art 50% science\u2019 Without one or the other you\u2019re not going to succeed too much. Styles and things always change in the industry and in New Zealand I think, because we are quite a new wine part of the world, we are quicker to develop than other places. With stainless steel and screwcaps \u2013 we\u2019ve been very quick to take those changes on. You\u2019ll notice as well with Chardonnay \u2013 how it\u2019s gone from loads of oak to no oak at all.<\/p>

Even with ros\u00e9 you\u2019ll have seen a style change. Historically there weren\u2019t many ros\u00e9s available on the market. It was viewed in a relatively negative light, being seen as a throwaway blend, but it\u2019s never been that way for a lot of wineries. It used to be reasonably sweet, easy drinking and not a lot of it being consumed. Now of course ros\u00e9 is growing faster than any other segment in wine. And a lot of the styles now are in the Provence style. So you\u2019ve got a light, pale pink colour, nice and crisp and dry. That seems to be the typical style and trend. Made with Pinot Noir. And of course we do things a bit differently here. Our base wine is Malbec, adding a touch of Gewurz separately to give a nice floral component.<\/p>

(we got through the winery doors to a pair of enormous barrels)<\/p>

And our port still goes extremely well. It is amazing how well it\u2019s gone. We\u2019ll keep making that for many, many years. So these Totara barrels are what we blend our ports in. 500 gallon, and these are all full. Made in the 1940s and that was the standard size back then, and when you could make things out of totara. They\u2019ve had port ageing in them ever since. So they\u2019re very special to have. They\u2019re like a solera system \u2013 we only ever take a small amount out and then top it up. My grandad always says \u201cthere\u2019s a bit of this wine that\u2019s sixty years old. I can\u2019t tell you which bit\u2026\u201d We say it\u2019s at least ten years old by the time the wine gets bottled.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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There used to be coopers here and we used to make barrels \u2013 a lot were used in the brewing industry as well. Before stainless steel, wooden vats were one of the few ways you could store liquids. So it was common to make barrels, but now it\u2019s not and all our oak comes from France.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Have you seen those eggs that people are using now? Almost like going back to amphora?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Yes, quite interesting. It makes a difference I suppose. I\u2019d be interested to try those wines.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And Kumeu \u2013 obviously Auckland is constantly changing. Any pressures from where you are? Will it be here in 50 years?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Always something to think about. We\u2019re pretty stubborn so we\u2019re planning to stay where we are. My grandad\u2019s got no intention of moving again in his lifetime.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We\u2019ve already moved once which was a big thing to move from Lincoln Road. And that was 2002, so reasonably recently. This place is still pretty new. We can\u2019t move further out west, we\u2019d be on the beach if we try again. We\u2019re keen to stay as long as we realistically can.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I suppose the threat is more obvious to something like a vineyard. That\u2019s a field that\u2019s growing stuff, and a developer looks at that and thinks \u2018well I can get this much money per square hectare for houses\u2019 It\u2019s nice to think that there\u2019s still a wine region within an easy drive of Auckland, without having to go over the water to Waiheke. And some of the wines from Kumeu wineries are as good as anything.<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: And it\u2019s where the bigger industry started out with the Croatian immigrants of the time. It\u2019s important to keep that \u2013 it would be disappointing if we lost that heritage in this area. There used to be 37 wineries out west, so a lot have gone. On Lincoln Road you\u2019ve still got Mazurans, and Babich are still out there but its nothing like it used to be. A lot of the brands and families have either sold and moved, or\u00a0sold altogether and now they don\u2019t have anything to do with it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And do you think people will still be drinking wine in the near future? Like our generation or our parents did?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Everything is changing with consumers and what they drink. Within wine as well. I think there\u2019s a trend, both from the sales side as from the consumer side, to drink less volume but higher quality. You see it with brands like Constellation. They\u2019re selling their lower tier $10 supermarket brands, and trying to get those higher value brands. With the younger generation, I think their consumption is less. We\u2019re trying to steer clear of the bulk stuff \u2013 not doing it as cheap as you can do. I hope people don\u2019t stop drinking wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Me too. I have actively sought out the wines that are coming through and a bit different though – \u00a0like natural wines, orange wines, and some \u2018young\u2019 wines where it\u2019s had no oak, red wines released within 6 months of harvest, to be drunk from the fridge.<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: I haven\u2019t had a lot myself. I\u2019ve tried a few. It\u2019s not something we\u2019ve ever done, so I don\u2019t have any experience of making them.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve had some in places that you probably wouldn\u2019t think, and they probably weren\u2019t described as natural wines. I\u2019ve seen it in kegs, in bars, that you just get a glass of wine, and no bottle is involved. Or wine in cans..do you think that a change is coming?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: I think that will be driven by consumers ultimately. Kegs is a good example. It\u2019s a good way to store wine, and to get it out for quick consumptions to restaurants. New Zealand however probably doesn\u2019t view that you can get a nice wine from a keg. It doesn\u2019t sound as nice, or as romantic as having a nice bottle of wine, with a cork. If there\u2019s enough consumer acceptance and drive for having more premium wines, from alternative sources \u2013 a keg for example, that would be a good change. If you reduce the number of bottles, labels and everything that\u2019s only going to be good.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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But it will take a while for people to come around. Wine in cans is a completely different market as well. Traditionally wine in cans aren\u2019t the same wines that are going to be in a fine wine store, in a bottle. Quite a different target.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Low alcohol, or alcohol free?<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: Definitely growing, becoming more important. You\u2019re seeing it with spirits as well. Alcohol does add a lot to a wine. It\u2019s 85% water, so it\u2019s the other 15% that counts. Alcohol is a part of that mouthfeel, texture and body. With lower alcohol wines \u2013 my grandad always says \u201cif you want a lower alcohol wine just water it down a bit\u201d. The winemaker can still make it exactly how they want, so you still get those flavours.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: do you get that knock on from the craft beer explosion, where people are now always after something new. You don\u2019t walk into a craft beer bar and order the same thing you\u2019ve always had \u2013 you want to try a new version. Do you get that with wines? People don\u2019t want the \u2018old varieties\u2019 \u2013 still a place for gewurz and Riesling?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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TS<\/strong>: I\u2019m a bit biased by my own views on that, because I\u2019m very much into trying new things. I love craft beer, and I wouldn\u2019t buy a 12-pack of the same one. Personally I\u2019m the same with wine. I wouldn\u2019t buy a crazy amount of one wine, I\u2019ll always try different brands and varieties. I always want to change it up, and I think there\u2019s a lot of people who stick to their same Sauvignon Blanc every time. Same brand, same wine. And there are other people who aren\u2019t worried about trying new things and are happy to stick with what they know. They enjoy that safe option. People are interested in a straight Malbec though, or still like a Gewurz and other varietals.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I was surprised recently, I went into a brand new liquor store in my area, and I asked where their Riesling was \u2013 thinking there was a small section that I just couldn\u2019t see\u2026 and the guy took me over and showed the one single bottle they had, of Riesling! Even in established places, I find the shelves are stocked with established wines, and yet you go somewhere \u2013 Hawke\u2019s bay for example \u2013 and it\u2019s amazing how many different, new things there are around there now. Yes, even if you were touring around Hawke\u2019s Bay you could just go to the well-known places, but there are a few new, or smaller places that are well worth a look.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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TS<\/strong>: Easy to go and visit Church Road and Mission Estate down there and be happy with your visit. You don\u2019t have to pop into De la Terre or Brookfields, or those slightly smaller wineries that don\u2019t have that big flash expensive outlay, but you\u2019ll get a different experience there.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Yes, I was pleased when I went to Askerne<\/strong>. You could easily go to Te Mata, Black Barn and then down to Craggy Range \u2013 all excellent places – and miss them out. But it was brilliant at Askerne. Laura, the youngest daughter, was in the Cellar Door for my visit and she\u2019s like a walking encyclopedia of Hawke\u2019s Bay wine! She\u2019d say to me \u201chave you had so-and-so wine?\u201d and I\u2019d say, \u2018well, yes I have \u2013 that\u2019s my job \u2013 how have you had that?\u2019 and she\u2019s say \u201cwell, me too, and I\u2019m interested in things \u2013 and did you know… that so-and-so does this and that\u2026\u201d she was so passionate about wine and it made my visit just fabulous. It\u2019s everything you want at a Cellar Door.<\/p>

TS<\/strong>: A bit like our Cellar Door here \u2013 you will likely meet a family member of the family-run winery, and could ask us anything and we\u2019d probably know, because this is our life!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Soljans Estate Winery is one of those amazing local wineries that everyone you know has been to. And everyone\u2019s got something good to say about it. 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