{"id":3461,"date":"2021-05-13T08:11:32","date_gmt":"2021-05-13T08:11:32","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3461"},"modified":"2021-05-13T08:50:53","modified_gmt":"2021-05-13T08:50:53","slug":"winemaker-series-amy-olly-halcyon-days","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3461","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Amy & Olly – Halcyon Days"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Meeting up with Olly and Amy from Halcyon Days<\/strong> in the trendy part of Hastings at Cupple Cafe\u0301<\/strong>, I do start off with a little apprehension..<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: I\u2019ve heard you guys are good, but can I say \u2013 I\u2019ve never tried your wine. So I was a little worried when you suggested we meet in a cafe\u0301, and I turn up and have no context or background to go on, and we\u2019d just discuss the \u2018concept\u2019 of your wine! So I\u2019m pleased to see you do have samples!! Hahaha.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: So, Halcyon Days is Olly and I. We met just over ten years ago in London. Olly was working for Decanter<\/strong> magazine. He came down to stay with me and we were making wine in Castilla y Leon<\/strong> in the northwest of Spain\u2013 big sky country – perfect weather, golden days, so much light. And that\u2019s what we also think is amazing about Hawke\u2019s Bay. There\u2019s this amazing light, the perfect weather, the perfect climate. So Halcyon Days is like a nostalgic remembering of the golden weather \u2013 hence the reason we\u2019re called Halcyon Days.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy<\/strong>:\u00a0What you\u2019re tasting is our \u2018Kotare\u2019<\/strong> \u2013 that\u2019s the sacred kingfisher, which is also part of the halcyon myth. We have a lot of them in this vineyard, in the Mangatahi<\/strong> sub-region. It\u2019s on river terraces of the Ngaruroro river, so there\u2019s a few kingfishers around. It\u2019s about 70% Sauvignon Blanc which is all fermented on its skins with quite a lot of whole bunch. In \u201919 we played around with the whole bunch and we really liked the texture and structure.<\/p>

We did more whole bunch in \u201920 than we did in \u201919, and it gets a handful of Gewurz on its skins as well, because we love Gewurz but it can be overpowering. We did a very selective pick and we ended up with a couple of crates. We think that sub region is really well suited to aromatics. So beautiful Pinot Gris, Sauvignon, Gewurz. And actually we great Sangiovese from there!<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

WF<\/strong>: Wow, really? Because people are always after stuff like that \u2013 Nebbiolo, Sangiovese..<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: Yes, wish there was more, it\u2019s so good.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy<\/strong>: And then the rest is remainder is Pinot Noir rose \u2013 just because we like the combination. And everything is off the same vineyard. There\u2019s a lot of diversity in that vineyard \u2013 it\u2019s awesome! We both love Sauvignon Blanc. It\u2019s one of Olly\u2019s main influences on the wine journey.<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: It\u2019s kind of a hard sell in New Zealand, because as soon as you say \u2018Sauvignon Blanc\u2019 it comes with a whole bunch of preconceptions. When people say \u2018what am I tasting?\u2019 I usually just pour it for them and let them taste first.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: Which is why we don\u2019t normally have the varieties on the labels. Also, we love what the skins does to Sauvignon \u2013 flavour and texture wise. And it\u2019s so different to what most people are expecting, that it\u2019s better just not to have it on the label. Ironically, we have more freedom here to put things on the label than in France. Everything we do is BioGro certified and zero additions of any kind. This is only our third vintage and one of the reasons that we want to do our own thing is that we can really play around and push the boundaries.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: so… who is this for?<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: Us! (laughing). People who are interested in wines that are focussed more on structure and texture. And that are interested in organics.<\/p>

I think there\u2019s no demographic that this appeals to. It\u2019s anyone who\u2019s interested in something a bit different. I showed this to my Uncle\u2019s tasting group who are all at the verge of retiring, and did them a whole Natural Wine tasting. I was a little bit nervous at first, and they loved all of the wines, and all commented to me afterwards: \u201cI so enjoyed that Kotare \u2013 my wine of the night!\u201d And I\u2019m like \u2013 that\u2019s not what I expected. We shouldn\u2019t have preconceptions based on background or age \u2013 it\u2019s for anyone who is interested.<\/p>

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We\u2019re involved with the vineyards but we don\u2019t own them. \u201919 was the first year we did Kotare, and it was much more austere, and I think that\u2019s reflection of the vintage. 2020 was much drier and the fruit was more generous.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s quite ethereal \u2013 wispy, and dances across the palate. I like it a lot.
Also, I wrote a bit recently about \u2018Cult\u2019 wines, and I think if I was showing someone this wine, that tastes like that \u2013 has those ingredients, and has a label like that.. they might think \u201ccult wine\u201d. Thoughts?<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: We could fit into that. We\u2019d resist it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: isn\u2019t that even better \u2013 if you don\u2019t want it? That makes you even more \u2018cult\u2019!! Accidentally cult?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy: <\/strong>\u2018Cult wine\u2019 just makes me think of Napa, and massive egos. Fingers crossed we don\u2019t end up like that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Where can people get it retail and what would it sell for?<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: around $35, and it\u2019s pretty much sold-out now. The small independent retailers, with personality, are good – we work with a lot of them. For retail in New Zealand, we\u2019re with Everyday Wine, Point Chev Organics, Caro\u2019s at Grey Lynn, Star Superette, and Bythebottle.co.nz.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m really glad that people like Gregory Collinge at The Supernatural<\/strong>, and Hayden, have looked after me here \u2013 as I\u2019m getting to spend time talking about wines that aren\u2019t mainstream \u2013 we spent all of last evening on natural wines for example.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy<\/strong>: It\u2019s a beautiful location too. Have you had the Gris Noir before? This is a skin-fermented Pinot Gris, which we love, and this vineyard has some really great Pinot Gris. In the past we\u2019ve blended it with some Pinot Noir rose but this year we\u2019ve played with syrah rose and that\u2019s what is giving it the crazy colour. This doesn\u2019t fit in a category that well \u2013 it could be orange, could be rose, it could even be a light red?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: So, I\u2019ve had a bit of skin-fermented Pinot Gris before and I like it. The Valli<\/strong> one is amazing, and the Supernatural one is good too.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: we\u2019re very careful with our extraction, it gets a gentle hand plunge if it needs it, and other than that we just leave it alone. About two and a half weeks on skins. And it does have a tiny bit of Pinot Noir rose in it, because we love blending stuff!! Everything is aged in tank other than one experiment ageing in an old barrel, which may or may not work \u2013 we\u2019ve got some of the Sauvignon ageing under flor at the moment. It aged quite oxidatively for a couple of months while we were trying to get the flor to grow. We likes wines under flor, so we wanted to try it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s that one with the young sherry that\u2019s released?<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: En Rama? Wish we had more of that in New Zealand.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy<\/strong>: We were spoilt being in Spain, and it wasn\u2019t a super popular category domestically in Spain, so we had access to whatever we wanted, at eye-wateringly affordable prices.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: You should do a Vermouth!<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

Amy<\/strong>: We are! Well, we have a friend who is working on a vermouth. We have an Italian friend, and we\u2019ve given him the base wine \u2013 it will be a red one – and they\u2019re going to do a foraged, organic vermouth.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you do other things than just Halcyon Days? Do you do any work for other winemakers?<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

Amy: We have two small children. I make wine, bring in barrels, a bit with coffee as well, and some consulting.<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: I still write, as well as being a winemaker. I keep telling myself I\u2019m going to do one vintage where it\u2019s going to be Halcyon and nothing else, and then I get dragged into doing other stuff. I was at Riverview this year.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s a great vineyard, I love it there.<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: It\u2019s beautiful. So… maybe next year.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: This is Luz, it\u2019s a \u2018joven\u2019 style wine. 6 month-old wine, un-oaked, fresh, primary, bright \u2013 a whole bunch Syrah with a little bit of Pinot.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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To be served chilled. We love this expression of Syrah as a vintage \u2013 2020 \u2013 picked when it\u2019s still super fresh. We didn\u2019t want any shrivel. Careful to get very gentle extraction, and it still came out with quite a lot of colour. We were quite surprised when we pressed this.\u00a0This is MS from the old block in Bridge Pa.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: If I was assuming that was a \u2018lighter red\u2019 it\u2019s got plenty of body to go with that exquisite perfume.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: It\u2019s a shame they don\u2019t export it much, because in Spain they drink a lot of \u2018joven\u2019 especially in the summer. You don\u2019t really want a massive 15% Tempranillo on a 40 degree day. Luz is \u2018light\u2019, as in sunlight, in Spanish.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well you want the right wine in the right place. These would be great food wines as well? And, hang on \u2013 \u2018may contain sulphites\u2019??<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: We have to legally put that on.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: We have the discussion every year whether we should, or not, put that on. And we\u2019ve always erred on the side of caution. Just because it\u2019s to do with allergies. The way they word it for the States is, I think, better. We haven\u2019t added anything.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And cork?<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Olly<\/strong>: We love cork! It\u2019s natural. We do have to weigh up what it costs to bring the cork here from Portugal, but then the screwcaps aren\u2019t made here either. Cork seems to be the best natural option that we have. I\u2019m really keen on Diam which is the reconstituted cork base, but the glue they use to put those together is synthetic.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

Amy<\/strong>: But they do have a natural, organic one coming out. But it\u2019s quite expensive. We\u2019ve got friends trialling them. We like how wine ages under cork, and the rest is all environmental. From an environmental point of view there\u2019s no perfect closure, so this is what works for us. We are always looking at our packaging through an environmental lens, as well as what\u2019s best for the quality.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And you do a Pet Nat?<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: We do normally but we didn\u2019t in 2020. It\u2019s the one thing we couldn\u2019t do because of lockdown. We did a trial – which didn\u2019t work (laughs). It got to exactly the correct sugar for bottling, the night we went to Level 4. And at that stage we hadn\u2019t been notified whether we were \u2018essential\u2019 or not. In the scheme of things it didn\u2019t seem like it was worth it, so. We\u2019ve got what we think are going to be really interesting grapes for next year. Oh \u2013 no \u2013 we did do one Pet Nat that\u2019s in a keg. So our friends over at Brave Brewer<\/strong>y, we\u2019ve always talked about putting some wines on the taps there. Regarding packaging we also really like keg \u2013 environmentally, and every glass is the same \u2013 really close the circle. They lent us two of their kegs and we finished the ferment in keg. So it is naturally sparkling in keg and then it aged for about 6 months on its lees \u2013 and they\u2019ve just hooked it up. But it\u2019s still quite cloudy and needs to settle for a couple of days. It\u2019s got quite a different aromatic profile as well.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Is there anything else in the pipeline?<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: Always, but also not trying too many things at once \u2013 rationalise it a bit. The Pinot Noir is a good example of that \u2013 you can\u2019t justify to just blend it away if you do it. We really like it but, bizarrely it turns out with much more body than our whites. And a freshness as well.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: We love it as a blending component \u2013 it\u2019s pretty much in all our wines. Especially Mangatahi<\/strong> \u2013 that\u2019s a great Pinot site.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m here today but tomorrow I\u2019m driving down south with Martinborough<\/strong> as my destination. Looking forward to some great Pinot Noir.<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: We both love Martinborough. That was our other choice when we were deciding where to settle.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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One of the things that\u2019s challenging here in Hawke\u2019s Bay is that we do have great diversity of wines (with no real flagship style) and there\u2019s a lot going on. Conversely, that\u2019s also a strength in some ways.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Yes, it\u2019s a \u2018fine wine region\u2019 not just a single varietal region isn\u2019t it? It does lots of things well, but it\u2019s easier to tell one story \u2013 like \u201cSyrah!\u201d or \u201cChardonnay!\u201d<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: A good example of the shortfall in that unique approach is to look at the way that Central Hawke\u2019s Bay<\/strong> is often left off the radar when you talk about Hawke\u2019s Bay. They have to fight for their slice of the pie. That also informs why we don\u2019t use varietals on our labels. It\u2019s too basic a shorthand. It\u2019s hard to explain us, but I like that!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: No, I agree. Your wines need to be found in the first place anyway, and then the real discovery is in the bottle. It\u2019s not like \u201cOh it\u2019s Syrah \u2013 I\u2019ve already made my mind up what it\u2019s going to taste like\u201d.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Amy<\/strong>: We really didn\u2019t want to put Syrah on this, because people will go \u2018Ok Hawke\u2019s Bay Syrah\u201d, and they\u2019ve already got something in their head. We don\u2019t set out to confuse people, but it\u2019s not that \u2018style\u2019.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Is there something about making wine here in Hawke\u2019s Bay that you couldn\u2019t do elsewhere?<\/p>

Amy<\/strong>: I literally think it\u2019s the best place in the world to make wine. It\u2019s an amazing region. The Heretaunga aquifer has this amazing like-giving force, but then there\u2019s this quite dry climate which is great for organics. Mountains, rivers, ocean \u2013 it\u2019s got it all. And a great community here, that\u2019s quite diverse, and isn\u2019t just about wine. We do have heritage, but it\u2019s still really young. The best is still to come.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And even if you are making wine that fits in the style of what your Father, or Grandfather made.. there\u2019s no guarantee that\u2019s what your children are going to make.<\/p>

Olly<\/strong>: The experimentation is what leads to ideas about what grapes work best, in terroir.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>

Amy<\/strong>: And diversity is our strength.<\/p><\/div><\/div><\/div><\/div>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Meeting up with Olly and Amy from Halcyon Days in the trendy part of Hastings at Cupple Cafe\u0301, I do start off with a little apprehension.. 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