{"id":3428,"date":"2021-05-10T02:25:16","date_gmt":"2021-05-10T02:25:16","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3428"},"modified":"2021-05-10T05:10:31","modified_gmt":"2021-05-10T05:10:31","slug":"winemaker-series-paul-mooney","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3428","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Paul Mooney"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Wine Folio<\/strong>: Mission is one of my favourite places. I remember coming here early on when we\u2019d moved here from the UK in 2003, and just thinking what a fabulous place. It\u2019s a fantastic winery experience.<\/p>

Paul Mooney<\/strong>: We\u2019ve got the history and tradition. My predecessor, Brother John<\/strong> was trained in Bordeaux, so came from there in the \u201860s, and developed the first Methode \u2013 \u2018Fontanelle\u2019<\/strong>. There\u2019s a bottle in the doorway at the top. The next guy to do it was Mate Selak<\/strong>. When he came back he brought a handbook \u2013 4 tomes, one on viticulture, one on processing and so on.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you have to speak French as part of the job?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: No, but I used to use those books with a dictionary, you know. They\u2019ve got a lot of detail and expertise in the technique.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Is it quite different from how you would have learnt to make wine if you\u2019d gone to school in Roseworthy, for example?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: Definitely. It was different back then, a different approach. A lot of kiwis do their vintages in France, in Bordeaux these days. See the French approach to things.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you mean a French approach to winemaking, or a view of life, and how wine fits into that?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: Perhaps both. We have a heritage, but most of our wines are what you would call \u2018supermarket\u2019 wines. We don\u2019t have a huge marketing budget, or are owned by billionaires. We make a lot of different varieties \u2013 like Gewurztraminer and Riesling, and from $150 down to our Estate range at around $13-14. We acquired the Ngatarawa brands about three years ago, so we got a bit more scale. That gives more sustainability as a wine producer in Hawke\u2019s Bay and certain advantages in costs and things like that. Also distribution \u2013 that can be hard work.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s one thing making it, but getting it out there with marketing, sales and distribution\u2026<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: We now have an opportunity to fully utilise this production facility \u2013 given us scale and efficiencies. We put in a new bottling line so we put all our production through there. As an integrated wine company that does everything from growing, making the wine, bottling, sales, marketing, distribution – all from the one site, we are fairly unique company in Hawke\u2019s Bay. We\u2019re also very flexible, so we do a lot of third party work \u2013 some bulk processing for people who\u2019ve got customers in the UK and some bottling.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And we do batches of fine wines. Our icon brand is Huchet<\/strong>, named after the first professionally-trained winemaker in New Zealand \u2013 that\u2019s Cyprian Huchet<\/strong>. So as well as doing all that other stuff, we are working at the fine wine end. And we really wish to develop that. We\u2019ve got very high quality vineyards now, including Gimblett Gravels<\/strong>. But on the other hand, our biggest vineyard holding is in Marlborough. So we\u2019ve got a 73 hectare vineyard in Marlborough<\/strong>, which gives us the scope to develop export markets.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s different about the fine wine end of it?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: It\u2019s very targeted, so we started back in 2007 and did a NDDI map of our best vineyard, that grows Syrah and Merlot. Mapped it and looked at the variability of the vineyard, and target the best parts for our top wines. Then apply special techniques \u2013 more thinning or shoot positioning for example. So the first Huchet wine that we made was from about a quarter of a hectare. Hand harvested and fermented individually, kept in barrel specifically for that wine. We aspire to make something that\u2019s really a reflection of the site. That ties back to the French idea of \u2018terroir\u2019, so it\u2019s not about the winemaking so much as the site. The same goes for Cable Station<\/strong>, that\u2019s a single vineyard in the Awatere Valley<\/strong>, near Lake Grasmere \u2013 it has quite unique flavours, a definite herbal aspect.<\/p>

In Hawke\u2019s Bay you find that wines from the Bridge Pa Triangle<\/strong> for example, have a different texture profile and aroma to that of the Gimblett Gravels. Parts of the Triangle \u2013 over near Sileni<\/strong> that are as warm as the Gravels, but bits over by Roys Hill<\/strong> that are cooler. The Gimblett Gravels does quite a bit of promotion \u2013 so every year they choose a dozen wines from the Gimblett Gravels. This year, our top Cabernet blend, named \u2018Antoine\u2019<\/strong> is in the 2018 ABS selection.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Aspiring to make those better, barrel-aged wines is what being a winemaker is about, for me. We\u2019ve got about 700 barrels in our barrel hall \u2013 probably less than 10% of our production. I think if you are in Hawke\u2019s Bay and just making barrel-aged wines, going for the top end, it\u2019s pretty hard going. You\u2019re up against Bordeaux and California, and who\u2019s likely to have heard of Hawke\u2019s Bay if you\u2019re in New York or somewhere like that? It\u2019s pretty hard because for one thing we just haven\u2019t got the mass, the size, the production. As a wine company we\u2019ve got broad distribution in New Zealand, and a good range \u2013 we have the \u2018Reserve\u2019<\/strong> range that sells up to $30 and then the \u2018Jewelstone\u2019<\/strong> range up around $50. Which some say, considering the quality, they\u2019re too cheap. We\u2019re having a crack at the fine wine end.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Are things like \u2018vine age\u2019 having an effect too?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: Our blocks in the Gimblett Gravels were put in in 2003, so they\u2019re 17 years old. That crop load has settled down and we have more consistency from year to year.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Any thoughts on the Show system \u2013 or critics and writers \u2013 people like me who write about the wines people make?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: I don\u2019t know. I\u2019m not sure how relevant it is. Twenty years ago if you got a Gold Medal it was a heck of a big deal. That wine would sell out. We just got a Gold at the International Wine Show for Cable Station Sauvignon Blanc, and it\u2019s a big production \u2013 over 100,000 litres. But I don\u2019t think it\u2019s made any difference to sales. People go to buy and they buy a brand.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I recently wrote an article about \u2018what makes a cult wine\u2019 which is partly down to brands. What do you think of that \u2013 what makes a cult wine?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: Probably a combination of many factors. Obviously from great dedication and throwing everything at it, to a point where money is not the consideration. There\u2019s Mouton Rothschild<\/strong> that comes to mind. That guy \u2013 Baron Phillipe worked on that project for 30-40-50 years and finally got an accredited First Growth, and now that wine is up there with all the other First Growths. That\u2019s like a lifetime\u2019s project. As a company we don\u2019t have the money or resources to throw at that.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Talking of resources \u2013 how was the COVID situation for you, here?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: It was a bit of a pain but we got through it OK. It was awkward because different people had different bubbles. Looks like a great vintage though \u2013 reminds me of \u201909 really, which was one of the best vintages I\u2019ve ever seen. Last year was very good too \u2013 \u201919.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: OK, well I have to say that I was a bit disappointed with the 2019 Hawke\u2019s Bay Chardonnays at first \u2013 they seemed a little shy?<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: I\u2019ll get you one \u2013 I\u2019d be interested in your comments. This is a Chardonnay we did in 2013 and \u201918 \u2013 a Huchet Chardonnay. This is a \u201919 version still to be bottled up. It\u2019s a blend from a couple of vineyards and the barrel choice is particular \u2013 Troncais barrels. And extended maturation in barrel so about 18 months on lees in barrel. Everyone\u2019s got their idea of what a Chardonnay should taste like.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Great balance. Obviously got a bit of new oak in it, but integrated. Nice floral on the nose, blanched almond \u2013 marzipan and nougat notes. Peach, apricot and tropical \u2013 melon; \u00a0but it\u2019s not excessively fruity \u2013 fairly savoury with tarragon and spices. Concentrated \u2013 but again, it\u2019s a bit shy on the nose \u2013 again! Good texture, but not overpowering \u2013 where some.. it\u2019s all about the texture.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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PM<\/strong>: The background of that wine is basically a blend of two vineyards. We\u2019ve got a vineyard out here with the old Mendoza<\/strong> clones, from around 1995. They\u2019ve got virus, quite badly, so we have to hang the fruit longer \u2013 about two weeks longer to get it ripe. But, at the end, it seems to have a depth, a dimension. And then the other vineyard, partly Gimblett Gravels, has this block with that riper spectrum and a bit more grunt and depth. It\u2019s all hand picked and whole bunch pressed. This vineyard here we always get really high, citrussy acidity.<\/p>

Even back in the 1990s I was reading papers about lees ageing \u2013 in France its common to use lees age for up to two years. So I started back then in \u201991 experimenting with extensive lees ageing \u2013 in barrel for 18 months. We didn\u2019t really pursue that too much, but in the past few years we have, because I think it helps with the ageability. We did a \u201913 like that \u2013 in that style, and that\u2019s aged really, really well.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I don\u2019t know the technical details, but I do find that lees ageing adds \u2018personality\u2019 to a wine. That\u2019s hard to define and pick apart, but for me, it just adds something extra and gives more character to a wine.<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: This is the Huchet Syrah. An interesting variety and it can be difficult in some years. If you get too much rain.. you\u2019re really better off with a dry settled autumn. About 8 years ago, in our Mere Road<\/strong> vineyard, two thirds of our two acres of Syrah was converted to organics. Last year was a very good Syrah vintage, and this fruit is from a specific area. This is our real effort to make a top, iconic wine. We\u2019ve just pulled it out of the barrel, so we\u2019ll bottle it in a month or so.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Well, I thought the Chardonnay was floral \u2013 this is off the chart floral! Really aromatic isn\u2019t it? I think the Syrah here is the one varietal that really expresses site \u2013 other than perhaps coastal Chardonnay from somewhere like Te Awanga<\/strong>. And I think it\u2019s the best expression of Hawke\u2019s Bay as a regional identity. You can say the Chardonnay here is really good \u2013 and I\u2019d agree. And I love the Cabernet Franc from Hawke\u2019s Bay. This one, I think because it\u2019s ripe \u2013 it\u2019s not too peppery. It\u2019s a reasonably big wine \u2013 got good tannins. Treading a line between both red and blue fruits \u2013 blueberry, raspberry and cranberry. And a slight resinous note to it \u2013 cedar, sandalwood, but I\u2019m not getting any of that cinnamon or green-ness from whole bunch \u2013 is there any?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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PM<\/strong>: The block it\u2019s from has a bit more silt over the gravels, and I think that helps the texture of this wine. No whole bunch, we aren\u2019t really set up for that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: This Huchet Syrah is really developing whilst we\u2019re talking, as well. I\u2019m getting chocolate, black tea and that greeny lightly roasted coffee bean note as well.<\/p>

PM<\/strong>: We use a specific barrel for this too, that we\u2019ve figured out that we really like. It\u2019s a Taransaud 119 \u2013 pretty well their most expensive barrel. The only thing more expensive is one that\u2019s about 1500 euros each. It\u2019s a particular style and it gives a lot of wood tannin, so you\u2019ve got to have the right wine but it seems to work really well with this vineyard. It\u2019s just something you discover.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It can be hard as a writer to be given something that you have to write about right now, without sounding like an idiot and trying to predict its future. You can only review it right now \u2013 I don\u2019t know that it\u2019s going to become this or that. So I quite often do the reviews of things like this with a little introduction and some context \u2013 then the review \u2013 and then some afterthoughts that might say \u201cI think this deserves to be cellared for years before drinking, even though I\u2019m drinking it now\u2019.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And I used to do restaurant reviews, which people assume is the greatest job ever. And it is good, but it\u2019s also kind of spoiling something that you really love \u2013 having to analyse and pick things apart. It\u2019s sort of fun to review wines. But it could also end up spoiling something that you\u2019re just supposed to enjoy \u2013 not dissect it constantly. And when I wrote restaurant reviews you\u2019d be trying to see the best in the experience \u2013 I remember once not really liking the food, so I focussed on writing about the fabulous view from the venue!<\/p>

I\u2019ve had your \u2018Antoine\u2019 and \u2018Huchet\u2019 wines before but they haven\u2019t always leapt out at me \u2013 at that level. Clearly against other estate-level wines they look great.<\/p>

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PM<\/strong>: In defence of our styles \u2013 we had one of our wines \u2013 a Jewelstone Cabernet-Merlot 09<\/strong> put on a tasting in Hong Kong against half a dozen top French wines and half a dozen Gimblett Gravels in the line up. The tasting was done \u2018double blind\u2019 and our wine was third. I\u2019ll defend it. Our wines do stack up.<\/p>

For the Huchet Cabernet<\/strong>, we\u2019ve got a really stony block in the Gimblett Gravels where we grow our Cabernet. It\u2019s spent twelve months in 100% new oak, but then we\u2019ve transferred into six 2-3 year old barrels, and we\u2019ll give this another nine months. Just to give that oak time to integrate.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Wine Folio: Mission is one of my favourite places. I remember coming here early on when we\u2019d moved here from the UK in 2003, and just thinking what a fabulous … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3429,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3428","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Paul Mooney - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3428\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Paul Mooney - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Wine Folio: Mission is one of my favourite places. 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