{"id":3365,"date":"2021-04-27T20:25:48","date_gmt":"2021-04-27T20:25:48","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3365"},"modified":"2021-04-27T20:38:28","modified_gmt":"2021-04-27T20:38:28","slug":"winemaker-series-jannine-rickards","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3365","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Jannine Rickards"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"3365\" class=\"elementor elementor-3365\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-142175a elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"142175a\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-df09311\" data-id=\"df09311\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6df342d elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"6df342d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>When I dropped into Finer Wines recently and talked about a visit to Gladstone with Jim, he suggested a visit to Johner was essential, but that I should also definitely try and get an appointment at Urlar, who don\u2019t have a Cellar Door. Now I\u2019d tried a couple of Urlar wines, including the sumptuous Champion Sweet wine of Show at the Easter Show last year. But, more importantly, I\u2019d heard only great things about their winemaker, Jannine Rickards. I caught an Instagram-Live session with Candice Chan and Jannine last year in which she talked about her own label \u2018Huntress\u2019 and disappearing into the bush for days &#8211; which just reinforced my idea to find out more about this fascinating character!<\/p><p><strong>Jannine Rickards<\/strong>: Angus planted the vineyard in 2004. It\u2019s just directly out here in four big squares \u2013 we\u2019ve got quite a bit of heavy clay in the soils just through here. We\u2019ve got Sauvignon, Riesling, Pinot Gris and then over the far side next to Paddy Borthwick\u2019s driveway are different Pinot clones on various rootstocks. It\u2019s 30 hectares planted and we\u2019ve also got a paddock that currently has Highland cows and our compost-making area in it, that could be planted up. But we are looking at purchasing another 5 hectares of land in the future, where the soils are a bit lighter textured, down near the Cliffs vineyard.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-9392d2a elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"9392d2a\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-2f74655\" data-id=\"2f74655\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-0be8d97 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"0be8d97\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>We were purchased by <strong>Nishi Brewing<\/strong> two years ago. They\u2019re eighth generation Sochu producers and they have expanded in Japan &#8211; into sake, whisky and gin. All in independent locations but in the same area. We have a Japanese gentleman who manages Urlar \u2013 he\u2019s based in Nelson and he comes up when he needs to, but apart from that we\u2019re left to our own devices. We\u2019re a pretty small team. Bevan\u2019s been our vineyard manager for nearly seven years. We\u2019ve got a full time crew of ten of us including Kohei, the Manager.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-8beed9c\" data-id=\"8beed9c\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-a66bd0d elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"a66bd0d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>In the three years I\u2019ve been here, I\u2019ve seen what works and what doesn\u2019t a little bit more. Really looking forward to expansion of the winery, which starts after harvest in 2021. A bit more room to move. We have expanded into a lot of different wines that just go to Japan under the Manager\u2019s label. More natural, Pet-Nats, skin-fermented Pinot Gris and Sav. So I make about 8-10 different wines for him in small volumes. Never thought I\u2019d be making Pet-Nat.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-e48721d elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"e48721d\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-a4199cc\" data-id=\"a4199cc\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-b2e68ed elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"b2e68ed\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"490\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-3368\" alt=\"Jannine Rickards at Urlar\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-9-02-32-AM-copy.jpg 1776w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-a87d440 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"a87d440\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-505b08a\" data-id=\"505b08a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-191c554 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"191c554\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>WineFolio<\/strong>: I\u2019ve been over at <strong>The Supernatural<\/strong> and that has helped me get more of a handle on natural wines. Without some guidance that can be a bit daunting to someone used to \u2018traditional\u2019 wines.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: It\u2019s fun because it gives me a lot of freedom and expression, just to have a go at different things. And the Japanese market really likes that. They love natural wines \u2013 the cloudier the better. We don\u2019t disgorge our Pet-Nat or anything like that. They\u2019re happy with that solid content. My favourite Pet-Nat is probably <strong>Black Estate<\/strong> and they do disgorge it. I just like the clarity. It\u2019s fun and interesting to see what they do in different vintages.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: This Sauvignon Blanc is gorgeous! I\u2019m so pleased that <strong>Craggy Range<\/strong> are going to be putting in a decent amount of Sav on Te Muna Road, because I really like Wairarapa Sauvignon Blanc. It\u2019s identifiably Sauvignon Blanc \u2013 in fact, I\u2019d say it\u2019s obviously New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc. And it\u2019s just \u2018different\u2019 from the style that everyone knows from Marlborough. I love it, and this is excellent.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-a6e8d4a\" data-id=\"a6e8d4a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-bdf1641 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"bdf1641\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I really hadn\u2019t worked with Sauvignon for some time before I came here, and then we\u2019ve got such a huge amount planted. I carried on with what the previous winemaker had done a little bit; but I also brought in some skin fermentation. It was a few percent in \u201918. Just for the texture and the finish on the palate. It brings some interest. No matter what you use, the fruit always seems to express this real citrus, lime kinda salty character. I thought let\u2019s embrace that because that\u2019s way more interesting to drink.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I still really rate Sauvignon. I know a lot of people steer clear of it, but I like to give it go. Another one that I also think, done well, is an interesting wine, is Pinot Gris. I like interesting and character. I rate that over and above what things \u201care supposed to be\u201d, so skin-contact in whites like Gewurz and Sav is all good by me. I think that gradually, consumers are picking up on things like that \u2013 and also the \u201cwhole bunch\u201d idea that they are now hearing about in Pinot Noir? Can you talk us through that?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: Whole cluster is just hand picked Pinot Noir fruit in the bottom of the fermenter. You\u2019re bringing in a different tannin from the stems through the fermentation.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-d27af40 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"d27af40\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-1d4cf6b\" data-id=\"1d4cf6b\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-48f51a6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"48f51a6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>At the final stages of alcohol fermentation when the stems are sitting in the solution, you can pick up those greener whole-bunch characters. Generally when people use a higher amount of whole bunch components in their Pinots they press earlier just so you don\u2019t get that stemmier push. It brings in aromatics \u2013 you get floral lift, a concentration and density \u2013 depending on the fruit.<\/p><p>We didn\u2019t get to do much this year because we were pushed for space, and I do love the couple of portions that have whole bunch. I\u2019m definitely going to do a bit more if the season allows. I did some fun whole cluster carbonic stuff for a ros\u00e9 which we\u2019ll try.<\/p><p>Our barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc has a portion of skin fermentation in it. Traditionally it\u2019s all been old French oak barriques, but since 2018 we\u2019ve got a Fuder, a 1000 litre, which is quite lovely, and a few newer barrels in the overall blend. 10 months on gross lees, partial malo, sulphured on taste. They\u2019ve been making this wine since 2013 and I really like it. I think that barrel-fermented Sauvignon or Sauvignon-Semillon blends are some of the most amazing food matches I\u2019ve ever had. It\u2019s quite versatile and really shines when you get the right food pairing.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I love the different conversation that it allows you to have about Sauvignon Blanc. It\u2019s a serious wine. I think it adds complexity, interest and character. It adds depth, you\u2019re not just getting that upfront personality from the grape. And beautiful to age. When I was at <strong>Lime Rock<\/strong> earlier I picked up a 2005 Sauvignon Blanc.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-f4c68b0 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"f4c68b0\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-fbea79a\" data-id=\"fbea79a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-8b798d3 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"8b798d3\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"410\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020-1024x571.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2808\" alt=\"Urlar Pinot Ros\u00e9 2020\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020-1024x571.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020-300x167.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020-768x428.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020-1536x857.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Urlar-Pinot-Rose-2020.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-6085863 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"6085863\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-1c8f949\" data-id=\"1c8f949\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-05af4ca elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"05af4ca\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>JR: Isn\u2019t that such a great site. I remember their first vintage of Pinot when I was working at <strong>Sileni<\/strong>.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Can you talk me through the new label design?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: The owner has quite a clear direction in where he wants to go, and packaging is quite important to the Japanese. It\u2019s part of a story \u2013 there\u2019s a lot of writing on there. There\u2019s the horizon of the planet, and how long we expect to be on this land. Nishi is eighth generation, so he\u2019s looking forward and long term. We\u2019ve had mixed reactions \u2013 only the Pinot Noir has been shown in New Zealand, and people either love it or hate it &#8211; but that\u2019s often the way.<\/p><p>We\u2019ve also changed a little bit the amount of wines that we make. With the previous owner, we used <strong>The Mediator<\/strong> which is a Pinot Noir priced just over $30 retail. A lighter fruit concentration and just an introduction to Wairarapa Pinot I guess? And for 2020 we\u2019ve made a white, and it\u2019s a blend. The idea was to have something to match with the Pinot. We\u2019re leasing and converting to organics, the Cliffs vineyard. So I couldn\u2019t use that in our Urlar range which is all BioGro certified organic.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-9d5bd59\" data-id=\"9d5bd59\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-98f5267 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"98f5267\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>The Mediator white should be aromatic, fresh and energetic. It\u2019s Pinot Gris, Viognier, Riesling, touch of Chardonnay. A little bit of Viognier done on the skins. I make a white blend for my own label, and have had some interesting conversations about white blends, but that one is really different and all skin-fermented.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I think people like them when they have reason to come into contact with them. Like at a Cellar Door for example. But it\u2019s tricky one to get people to buy retail, or outside of that environment. They\u2019ll happily buy a blend of reds, but a white? It\u2019s not a thing here in New Zealand is it?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I fell in love with Viognier when I was working in Gisborne. <strong>Millton<\/strong> Viognier is incredibly full and rich &#8211; you have a couple of glasses and it\u2019s so powerful.<\/p><p>It\u2019s got a little pithiness, nice texture and a tonic-y refreshing finish.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Yes, that drying, slightly tart finish \u2013 with a bit of juniper almost to it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-10a1fd5 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"10a1fd5\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-cf39836\" data-id=\"cf39836\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d304b22 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"d304b22\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>JR: You should go and see <strong>Reid &amp; Reid<\/strong>, they\u2019ve got a distillery in Martinborough. They do a gin that\u2019s intensely junipery. Also in <strong>Martinborough<\/strong>, the wine merchants has an incredible range. And <strong>Mesita<\/strong> will be open tonight, they do small plates and have some interesting smaller producers on their list.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Is it central?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: (laughs) Yes everything\u2019s central \u2013 you\u2019ve been to Martinborough before?<\/p><p>Ros\u00e9. Urlar\u2019s first ros\u00e9! Everyone\u2019s making ros\u00e9, so I made one too. Pinot Noir certified organic, from our vineyard &#8211; 115 clone mostly, the clone 5 is the carbonic portion. Hand picked it, put it in the fermenter, gassed it up, wrapped it up, left it, then foot stomped it after 5 days. Then fermented it and aged in old french oak.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Glad to see that\u2019s a ros\u00e9 taken seriously. I\u2019ve heard some horrible stories about ros\u00e9. And that\u2019s a lovely, interesting, aromatic wine. I love that \u2013 I\u2019m a late starter with ros\u00e9. Has to be dry. Carbonic maceration sounds a bit scary! Tell me about that.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: It\u2019s how they used to make <strong>Beaujolais<\/strong>. Trust in the fruit, if it\u2019s clean. It\u2019s going to start fermenting within the berry, and then those bright, bouncy, strawberry aromatics. A really nice blending component. I wouldn\u2019t want a ros\u00e9 with too much more of that but it\u2019s a nice balance with the texture.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-e4dc5b3 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"e4dc5b3\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-2e96479\" data-id=\"2e96479\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-ad40911 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"ad40911\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"490\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM-1024x683.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-3369\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM-1024x683.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM-300x200.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM-768x512.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM-1536x1024.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/04\/Photo-Apr-22-8-56-22-AM.jpg 1776w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-a6d7d59 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"a6d7d59\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-306f918\" data-id=\"306f918\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-43793e3 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"43793e3\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s got a lovely dry finish, but has a sense of sweetness \u2013 particularly on the nose. That\u2019s got everything in the right place.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: This wine will go into the local market quite a bit, and we\u2019ve had a really good response to it. We put some on a keg in a new bar in Masterton called <strong>Saint Sebastian<\/strong>, and from there we\u2019ve had a lot of enquiries.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: There\u2019s a place in Hastings now with wine in a keg \u2013 <strong>Halcyon Days<\/strong> were saying they\u2019ve got one in there. I love that because it\u2019s local.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: And have you heard of <strong>Everyday Wine<\/strong>\u00a0on Cuba Street? Dan, who has Wine Diamonds and he also has quite a lot of wine on keg down there.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve heard of <strong>Cult Wine<\/strong>. Have you read Jules\u2019 book? You\u2019re in it! I was the first person to receive it, read it and review it. I read it the day I got it \u2013 well, it\u2019s about my favourite subject. I emailed him and said I\u2019d read it, but was thinking about what to say in a review. At the back of the book there\u2019s a section called something like \u2018The dark side of NZ wine\u2019 and he talks about things like sexism in the industry.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I was talking with a table full of fervent feminists last night actually and it came up. I\u2019ve had so many woman mentors through my career that it\u2019s never really been a thing for me to worry about. I\u2019ve seen it and experienced it \u2013 in France for example.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-5fa0f9a\" data-id=\"5fa0f9a\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-93eeb8f elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"93eeb8f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Let\u2019s do a few <strong>Huntress<\/strong> wines? I do three wines, very small volumes. Viognier, Riesling and Pinot Gris \u2013 80% fermented on skins and really pushing the textural, phenolic structure. Aromatic and textured. Something different to go with food, because I love eating. It\u2019s the second year making the Waikoa \u2013 which means \u2018happy waters\u2019. We looked at some of the whites from South Africa, through Planet Wine, and they\u2019ve got a real intensity and richness.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: An intriguing wine \u2013 one minute I\u2019ve getting a floral, and distinctively fennel note in there; and then it\u2019s got an old-fashioned sweetshop vibe to it \u2013 like marshmallow and those rhubarb and custard lollies.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: Just today it\u2019s got a pink smoko lolly flavour to it. Remember those? It\u2019s the first year we\u2019ve had the viognier and there was a little bit of variability within the vineyard. Some really ripe with the thick skins and quite dark berries. And then there was some larger, sauvignon-looking bunches. Quite a range.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Who\u2019s that wine for?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: At the moment I just sell it direct to restaurants and retail. Ortega, Salty Pidgen.. I only made 700 bottles or so of it. I filtered this because it had some malic acid, but in hindsight\u2026 it\u2019s got enough phenolic tension that I should have let it finish malo \u2013 been patient and let it settle. But then in some ways I like the filtration because it brightens the aromatics and you\u2019ve got that clarity. So I\u2019m kind of like \u2018what do I do?\u2019.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-e2ecf54 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"e2ecf54\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-dd1c985\" data-id=\"dd1c985\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-792ebd6 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"792ebd6\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"551\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018-1024x768.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2651\" alt=\"Urlar Pinot Noir 2918\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018-1024x768.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018-300x225.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018-768x576.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018-1536x1152.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/12\/Urlar-Gladstone-Pinot-Noir-2018.jpg 1800w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-1f67920 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"1f67920\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>I\u2019m lucky enough to get my Pinot Noir fruit from <strong>On Giants Shoulders<\/strong>. He\u2019s a really talented, knowledgeable grower, and I he\u2019s working with Ata Rangi now as well. This \u201918 was all co-fermented &#8211; four clones: 10\/5, Abel, 828 and clone 5. 40% whole cluster, 28 days on skins. The Pinot shows that Martinborough restrained, aromatic, savoury. I was doing a trade thing and had a bottle open that I tried the second day, and I really thought it improved.<\/p><p>This year was a bit different with space being tight. I was lucky we had a small team \u2013 3 in the winery; and it was probably more stress for the Vineyard Manager, hand-picking, keeping distances and it was a pretty tense time. That first weekend we were right in the middle of our pick, and we also got 130mls of rain. Thankfully with the summer, and the drought there were really thick skins and handled that well. We just said \u2018whoosh, let\u2019s get it in\u2019 \u2013 you don\u2019t want to push your luck, but it was intense. The Wairarapa is small enough and we have a lot of local pickers that live here and are keen. We don\u2019t have as many transient pickers as Marlborough or Central. One thing I love about being out in the regions is the diversity, and to some extent, the culture. It helps to visit &#8211; then you get an understanding.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Well I really love to come and visit. I think even some of the people who\u2019ve been around for a while, and might travel up to Auckland often themselves \u2013 it\u2019s still nice when someone comes to your patch, to take the time to make those connections. And it\u2019s my thing \u2013 even my wife, who is my favourite person to spend time with, isn\u2019t really interested \u2013 so I go off and do it my way.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: My partner, Mick, is more of a beer drinker but he\u2019s slowly getting involved in it. But if I have a group of friends round and they\u2019re all wine friends, he\u2019ll have to leave. He\u2019ll say \u201cyou guys, you don\u2019t know how intense you get, with these conversations about wine\u2026 lalalala and I\u2019m not even there, so I might as well leave!\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-b4508a2 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"b4508a2\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-6c40c10\" data-id=\"6c40c10\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-1b9321c elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"1b9321c\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>WF<\/strong>: My wife just tells me to shut up. \u201cDavid, stop talking about wine\u201d and I\u2019ll say \u201cbut Julia wants to hear about it\u201d and she\u2019ll say \u201cDoes she? Really?\u201d. So I get to come away and indulge my love of wine.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: Yep, it\u2019s pretty addictive. But I have to take time away. You can\u2019t have a big night and then get up at 4 in the morning for a hunt. It doesn\u2019t work.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Didn\u2019t really have the options to pursue that, growing up in the UK. It\u2019s pretty tame. New Zealand really is the land of milk and honey, literally.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: But we need to look after it more.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: This is nice. Classic Wairarapa \u2013 savoury and heaps going on. Has it got Abel in it? It\u2019s got that swagger to it?<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I think it\u2019s a bit edgy on the palate, but in a complete way. Tannins are a bit sassy actually \u2013 yeah! For the \u201919 we changed a little bit. We were making The Mediator, the Estate and the Select parcels, which is largely this wine.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-179d13e\" data-id=\"179d13e\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f690d22 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"f690d22\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Then for \u201919 we\u2019ve got The Mediator, the Estate as a premium wine, then just a very small, couple of barrels, bottling to go to Japan.\u00a0This one is more of a barrel selection of this site, than the entire place. There\u2019s a touch of reduction that bothers me on this wine.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: Doesn\u2019t bother me, I could live with that. As long as it doesn\u2019t harden up.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I think it\u2019s just the stage it\u2019s at. We normally bottle just before harvest, but for the \u201919 we decided we\u2019d just keep it in tank. We often get that with screwcap, it just looks a bit awkward, but give it a couple of minutes and it seems to move on. It\u2019s definitely a bit denser. We had terrible hail and flowering.<\/p><p><strong>WF<\/strong>: the \u201918 was much more generous. I liked the jazz that it\u2019s got. That\u2019s a cool wine.<\/p><p><strong>JR<\/strong>: I love how every vintage is different. Nishi makes sochu and it\u2019s very consistent. Trying to explain that grapes are a bit more finicky and variable, and seasonally we\u2019re going to have these changes depending on what conditions we get.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>When I dropped into Finer Wines recently and talked about a visit to Gladstone with Jim, he suggested a visit to Johner was essential, but that I should also definitely &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3366,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3365","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - 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