{"id":3298,"date":"2021-04-12T03:01:33","date_gmt":"2021-04-12T03:01:33","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3298"},"modified":"2021-04-12T04:24:57","modified_gmt":"2021-04-12T04:24:57","slug":"lime-rock-central-hawkes-bay-pioneers","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3298","title":{"rendered":"Lime Rock: Central Hawke’s Bay pioneers"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Finishing up my exploits in Havelock North, and then travelling towards Wairarapa, it\u2019s an easy decision to call in at Lime Rock<\/strong> to meet Central Hawke\u2019s Bay pioneers Rodger Tynan and Rosie Butler, near Waipawa as I drive south. When I get here, Roger asks me what I’m expecting.. and I told him \u201cI\u2018ve been told that your Pinot is pretty good; that it\u2019s an amazing place; and that you\u2019re interesting people..\u201d<\/p>

Rodger Tynan<\/strong>: My background is in ecology, I worked in the Department of Conservation in Australia for twenty years. When we planted in 2001, we didn\u2019t want to rip any soil because we\u2019re on slopes, but also you destroy your soil structure by doing that as well. We\u2019re not organic, we\u2019re ecological. The worst thing you do on here is be biodynamic and plough it all up. You\u2019d have a massive erosion problem, plus you\u2019re destroying your soil microbiology, the fungal growth on plants that help the vines grow. This way if you do have any mealy bugs they tend to stay in the canopy. We used a water jet to do all the planting, and a lot of the plants are on their own roots, and that\u2019s pretty much how we planted the whole vineyard. Nearly killed us (laughs).<\/p>

Rosie\u2019s the winemaker. Been in the game since 1974. Used to work up in Gisborne for Montana, then was at Roseworthy and did the winemaking course there. That\u2019s where I met her. Met in the Roseworthy pub after a six hour Chemistry exam, as you do. I was either over here seeing her or she was coming over and seeing me, so eventually decided to move to Adelaide and worked with Brian Croser<\/strong> at Petaluma<\/strong> in the Adelaide Hills. He was making the Croser bubbly. Had a good few years there \u2013 13 years in Adelaide. I\u2019d spend a lot of time in the Outback as well. I\u2019d go away for two weeks at a time, camping out and looking at plants and animals which kept me pretty busy. Towards the end of coming up to 2000, the programme was coming to an end \u2013 we\u2019d covered just about every paddock of every pastoral lease in the Outback. It was time to look for something new. Rosie was keen to come back home, so we did.<\/p>

All the surrounding farmland is run by her brothers now, on both sides. We looked over the whole farm area and decided on this spot. North facing slope, close to a road, water that gets pumped up to a tank up there, and away we went. First vintage was 2004 and carried on since. It\u2019s mostly Pinot Noir, about 9 hectares overall. It\u2019s all handpicked, so during the 2020 harvest we just had one at the top, one in the middle, one at the bottom.<\/p>

In terms of vineyard management we just do one spray before budburst, the we don\u2019t have to spray again. It encourages things like clovers. We don\u2019t use much irrigation \u2013 the middle of the slope might get a bit because there\u2019s limestone goes through there.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We pick when it\u2019s right. So it might pick some of this on the top, then a different clone over there might be right, so we\u2019ll pick that. We just pick on ripeness really. On their own roots they just adapt to where they\u2019re growing. The ones you pick first, generally at the top can be more elegant, and the later ones at the bottom may be a bit more grunty. The top label, White Knuckle Hill<\/strong>, named after the steepest bit, we\u2019ve only done in 2013 and 2007. The tractor has taken off a couple of times down there.<\/p>

We were going to do a bit of champagne originally, but that got a bit hard. The facilities to do it weren\u2019t really available back then. The soil is limestone \u2013 a 3 million year old seabed. Crushed up barnacle shells, oysters and scallops. The main river is the Waipawa, and then the Manganuku down here which are quite good trout streams.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We\u2019re just finishing off shoot thinning at the moment \u2013 flowering is early \u2013 about two weeks earlier than usual. We keep a bit of grass as you go up to the vineyard and these trees are all natives – flowering hebes, which provide habitat for beneficial insects, and they migrate up into the vineyard along a pollen trail of the grasses and alyssum and stuff like that.<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: Do you get many visitors out here? Cellar Door traffic?<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: Yeah, the Cellar Door at the weekends. Depends on what\u2019s going on. Some weekends you might get hardly anyone, but generally you get a steady stream on Saturday afternoons and Sundays. We take people for drive up the hill. It\u2019s our point of difference. No-one else does it because there\u2019s nothing to see. Well it\u2019s usually flat earth. Fairly different from most of Hawke\u2019s Bay.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Certainly something to see from up there! And because of what you are well known for, do you get people who identify you more with Wairarapa than Hawke\u2019s Bay, given that\u2019s not something that Hawke\u2019s Bay is generally known for, but further south is?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Rosie Butler<\/strong>: We\u2019re individual. We\u2019re ourselves. It is a difficult story a bit. Because they like to tell their story of the big reds and Chardonnay. And we should have Chardonnay, but we don\u2019t. People do say our wines are a little bit like those of the Wairarapa but they\u2019re on stone, metal, and we\u2019re on limestone. We\u2019re higher altitude, and some say ours are more like Burgundy. We made a Chardonnay this year.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And a ros\u00e9 of course \u2013 that\u2019s a year round popular drink now.<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: Yes, we say it\u2019s an all year wine now. Things suddenly ramped up with the ros\u00e9 too.<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: We have three levels of Pinot, one of them is really an export label that goes to California, and it does well in restaurants.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: You mentioned you are individuals – are you doing something here that is unique?<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: There\u2019s Pukeora<\/strong> and they\u2019re on limestone, but they\u2019re winding down a bit now. Junction<\/strong> are on gravels of course, so we are fairly unique.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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RT<\/strong>: I don\u2019t know of any other vineyard owners or managers who\u2019ve got a background in ecology. We\u2019ve been looking at ecological processes right from the start, and that\u2019s something entirely new, really. I didn\u2019t have any viticulture training at all. Looking after the soil and not disturbing the soil structure. That all helps, thinking ecologically rather than viticulturally.<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: My background in winemaking goes back to 1974 when I started with Montana<\/strong>, but I was trained as a Medical Lab Technician. Did 6 years of that, and you see a bit through the years!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: is there anything else that you would like to do, or like to have done?<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: In retrospect we should have planted some Chardonnay. But 2001 when we put the vineyard in there was so much Chardonnay around anyway.<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: Actually I asked Kate Radburnd<\/strong> what are some good clones of Chardonnay, and I was thinking of Mendoza clones, but she said \u201cOh Rosie have you thought of Sauvignon Blanc \u2013 you\u2019ve got to have some of that!\u201d So we started with that. I see now that Mendoza is her favourite (laughs). We should have gone with it!<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: Why don\u2019t we start you on Gruner? New Zealand\u2019s best Gruner.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Yes, I heard that. Someone told me about it when I said that Gruner was one of the few wines that I don\u2019t really care for.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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RB<\/strong>: We don\u2019t have a lot of it. We only have 528 vines.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well I love that. I\u2019ve had Gruner before and literally spat it out. It was thin and acidic. This is rich and aromatic and textural \u2013 everything you\u2019d want in a white aromatic wine.<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: it\u2019s a lovely variety to pick. Lovely big, long bunches and all different ripeness which gives it more depth and character. It sells pretty well at the Cellar door, even when people have never heard of it. We make it fun, so we\u2019ll say \u201cIf you can\u2019t remember the name, you can call it GV, or Groovy Jetliner\u201d One woman said \u201cI\u2019m gonna call it \u2018Gunner\u2019 because I\u2019m gunner buy it, and take it home and I\u2019m gunner drink it\u201d. We make light of it and they remember it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s really nice. Good herbal nose and it\u2019s got a distinctive salinity to it. The drying in the finish is great too. I would happily drink that. I haven\u2019t had hundreds \u2013 don\u2019t get me wrong. This is probably the first of a handful I\u2019ve had that I like.<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: I was at Winetopia<\/strong> one time. We weren\u2019t showing so I was just there wandering around, and Jules Taylor<\/strong> have it \u2013 but they said it\u2019s very hard to sell.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: This is 14% alcohol as well \u2013 but it\u2019s still a very fresh style of wine, it\u2019s not heavy. Great acidity \u2013 got a clean line of acidity. That\u2019s my revelation of the trip so far \u2013 a Gruner that really floats my boat. Wow!<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: (opens the new 2020 bottling) \u2013 we just bottled this one. Roger said the last one smelt a little bit like the alyssum, with a delicate floral, but this one is good on the nose too. It\u2019s a thing \u2013 bottling.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m getting a bit of almond in there as well. Is some of it made in barrel?<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: One barrel. We like to keep it fresh. Do you see much difference between that one and the first one?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s a little lighter in touch, and fresher again \u2013 still quite bouncy. Good tension.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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RB<\/strong>: We\u2019ll go for the Pinot Gris<\/strong> next.. we\u2019re a little nervous about it. We\u2019d show you a \u201919 but we haven\u2019t any left, everyone just loved it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well it smells good! Compared to what some people prefer, I can go quite sweet on whites. I\u2019m also a big Pinot Gris fan, and I\u2019m aware there aren\u2019t too many of us!<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: We also want you to try the Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong>. We usually hold onto it for a bit, but we\u2019re keen to see how it is as well.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And did I see you\u2019ve got some older bottles for sale? I\u2019m a fan of older Savvy \u2013 ten years and so on, I like the flavours it develops. It\u2019s a bit like Pinot Gris \u2013 I\u2019ll talk to some people in wine, and they\u2019ll say \u201cOh well, I don\u2019t really drink that\u201d. Well I do, and I am prepared to taste and talk about it.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And not just because I\u2019m a writer, but I do like the best of those \u201ccommercial\u201d varietals like Sav and Pinot Gris \u2013 we shouldn\u2019t dismiss them.<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: This is the \u201915. The thing is, with our Sauvignon Blanc, is it\u2019s down by the river on the deep soils and it goes up on the slopes, so you get a mixture of different ripeness. It\u2019s just two cane, low yield – so it\u2019s not Marlborough savvy. It\u2019s maybe 5 kilo a vine, if that.<\/p>

We have three tiers of Pinot. The restaurants love it. It\u2019s the \u2018Kota\u2019 \u2013 it\u2019s shell in Maori. The vineyard is north-facing limestone slopes and some of the shells are the size of the bottle. We sold it first to the UK \u2013 to Majestic. Then we have the black label Pinot \u2013 our \u2018classic\u2019 and this one is a \u201914. And the top level has only been made twice \u2013 this is a 2013. \u2018White Knuckle\u2019 – it\u2019s a real identity \u2013 in the years after we had bigger bunches and got a lighter colour. I remember showing Rod McDonald<\/strong> the blend we were going to do and he looked at the colour and said \u201cwell it\u2019s not White Knuckle is it?\u201d<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: That \u2018black label\u2019 one has quite a bit of savoury character, balanced with a sweetness in the palate too. Dry, but lovely ripe fruit. Love the lighter colour to it. Doesn\u2019t have to be jet black to be tasty Pinot. It\u2019s a more elegant expression of Pinot. And the White Knuckle Hill is quite brooding, dark and complex. Do you win many awards and trophies?<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: The 2008 Pinot won the Trophy in Aussie for Pinot at the Australian Boutique Wine awards. You get a lot that are more fruit-forward that jump out at you. But we get 5 stars you know? We entered one lot in the Wine New Zealand magazine and we sent them three Pinots and got the Top 3. They couldn\u2019t believe it and they rang us up and said \u201cAre you sitting down \u2013 you\u2019ve just taken out the Top Pinot. Are you still sitting \u2013 you took out the second one as well\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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RB<\/strong>: Ours don\u2019t always shine out I don\u2019t think. But I think we\u2019re a different style.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s the future for you guys \u2013 did I hear the place is up for sale? You haven\u2019t got kids to pass it on to?<\/p>

RT<\/strong>: Yeah, it is. It hasn\u2019t been on the market really with COVID, as overseas interest couldn\u2019t come in anyway. We\u2019ve got one son who\u2019s more into fashion and things like that. There\u2019s no way he would do it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: but this is the sort of place that could get taken on and after a while you look back at it and think \u201cLook what they\u2019ve done with the place!\u201d<\/p>

RB<\/strong>: I hope so. We\u2019d like someone, with plenty of money, to build a Cellar Door right up at the top – Fantastic views!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Finishing up my exploits in Havelock North, and then travelling towards Wairarapa, it\u2019s an easy decision to call in at Lime Rock to meet Central Hawke\u2019s Bay pioneers Rodger Tynan … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3299,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3298","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nLime Rock: Central Hawke's Bay pioneers - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3298\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Lime Rock: Central Hawke's Bay pioneers - 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