{"id":3235,"date":"2021-03-30T20:07:40","date_gmt":"2021-03-30T20:07:40","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3235"},"modified":"2021-03-30T20:19:36","modified_gmt":"2021-03-30T20:19:36","slug":"an-afternoon-at-askerne-wines","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3235","title":{"rendered":"An afternoon at Askerne Wines"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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After trying a succession of really good, and pretty smartly priced wines from the Askerne<\/strong> label in 2020 \u2013 including a viognier that took out the Trophy for Champion wine at the NZIWS, I made sure that a visit was on the agenda when I was in Hawke\u2019s Bay recently. I\u2019d also got my hands on a new Chardonnay for them (I know) and was very impressed with that \u2013 The Archer 2018<\/strong>, which I thought easily deserved a place at the top table of the region\u2019s best.<\/p>

The Cellar Door has recently been upgraded and has an ideal location just outside Havelock North<\/strong> and with a few other notable vineyards and wineries in the locale. It\u2019s a family-run affair and I was greeted by one of the younger members of the family and taken through the history and current wines. I do love to run into a \u2018junior\u2019 member of a wine family \u2013 someone who has clearly grown up with wine as part of their upbringing. Their passion is obvious, but it\u2019s so ingrained in their life that it\u2019s an unconscious and unguarded side of their personality. Laura<\/strong> is like an encyclopaedia of what\u2019s going on in Hawke\u2019s Bay winemaking! Such was my afternoon at Askerne, and I\u2019d highly recommend a visit if you\u2019re in the region.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: As you know, I\u2019m very impressed with the new Chardonnay you brought out and send me a bottle to taste. I think I described it as \u201ca wonderful addition to the top tier of Hawke\u2019s Bay chardonnays\u201d.<\/em><\/p>

Laura Loughlin<\/strong>: The story behind the Archer is that Kathryn<\/strong> is my Mother, and she had a dream about taking the best parcels and using them, in a really good year, to make a superior Chardonnay. We\u2019d identified back in 2013, when we changed our cropping \u2013 went from 4-cane to 2-cane, that there\u2019s some standout fruit. Her maiden name is Archer, and she loves Chardonnay. 2018 was a great year, and we\u2019re a little bit later at this site, so the rain didn\u2019t affect us as much as other blocks. This was the first year we had been able to say \u2018we\u2019re doing it\u2019 and it showed great promise the whole way through. Being the first year of The Archer it was very exciting but it needed time to develop and grow. Mum had tears in her eyes the first time it got a great review – that it was being recognised for what we hoped it would be.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mum and Dad looked for a parcel of land \u2013 and this had been used for growing asparagus. It was half the size it is now, but they bought the neighbouring orchard in 1999, and that\u2019s when they started growing red varietals. Over the years we\u2019ve played around with different areas and what works where. We are believers in giving things a go, and it\u2019s not like the big corporates where you\u2019d have an accountant looking over you. We always grew up with wine, we had little wine glasses and we\u2019d have the sweet wines.<\/p>

We\u2019re believers in making wines that we like, even though sometimes we think that they\u2019re not what the General Public likes? Semillon<\/strong> is an example, where it was once more of a \u2018buzz\u2019 wine. There are still Semillon drinkers around though. Our vines are right there outside the Cellar Door. Have you had much Semillon?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve had a bit \u2013 mostly Aussie Semillon. I was in a wine store in Melbourne<\/strong> and was asking about alternatives to Chardonnay, and the sales assistant took me over to Semillon.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u00a0I think it was Hunter Valley<\/strong> and he said \u201cthis is the current vintage \u2013 2009\u201d Hahaha! That\u2019s brilliant.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: Our Semiilon has got some white-fleshed nectarine type characters. It\u2019s quite light but it does have a textural creaminess coming through. It\u2019s partially barrel fermented and partially tank fermented. A great food wine. When we were doing a clearout in the warehouse recently I found a 1997 \u2013 and it was awful (laughs) Well, you\u2019ve got to try these things! It\u2019s funny where some wines you\u2019re just not too sure about, and then you leave it a day and it\u2019s great.<\/p>

We also do a Sauvignon Blanc\/Sauvignon Gris\/Semillon blend. We started doing this that\u2019s a little bit different. We\u2019ve got an interesting soil make-up here, with lots of different soil types. It\u2019s also partially-barrel and partially tank fermented. Really herbaceous in flavour and its quite acid forward but when you have it with seafood the acid really cuts through.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Our Viognier<\/strong> recently won the trophy at the New Zealand International Wine Show<\/strong>. It comes off the newer block that we have. I had the job of picking it this vintage \u2013 we decided it was safer to do the picking separately and your bin had to stay yours during picking. We were meant to do two picks, but we did the first one and the brix came back at 25, so the next day we were like \u201cright, picking again today!!\u201d Our driver for Viognier is about 24 brix to get those real apricot flavours, so this one is a little different to what we\u2019ve done in previous years. We\u2019re trialling having it slightly drier, and for 2020 it looks beautiful – I tried some of the wild ferment barrels. Viognier has been one of our \u2018golden stories\u2019 I guess. We\u2019ve had two trophies with it over the years, in 2016 and 2019 which we\u2019re really pleased with. It\u2019s underrated in New Zealand, and it\u2019s a fantastic food wine. I guide people into trying it and 99 times out of a hundred people like it.<\/p>

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WF<\/strong>: There\u2019s definitely still a burble of interest in it. A few comments I get are that people like to drink it as an alternative to the normal whites, ahead of Pinot Gris for example. I think it\u2019s lost that novelty factor now too where people didn\u2019t know it, know how to pronounce it..<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: It\u2019s more versatile as a food wine than Chardonnay. And I\u2019ve heard a lot of Chardonnay drinkers do enjoy it. De la Terre<\/strong> did a Chardonnay-Viognier in 2019 and it\u2019s a really cool wine.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Tietjen Witters<\/strong> from Gisborne do one. It\u2019s called CV, and it\u2019s a 50\/50 blend. I said \u201cWhy are you doing that?\u201d and they replied \u201cwell, try it\u201d. And it just works.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: Te Awanga did one as well as a \u2018One Off\u2019 in \u201918 or \u201919. I\u2019ve had it. For my palate I like it more than the straight Viognier, but that\u2019s very personal.<\/p>

We\u2019ve got two Gew\u00fcrztraminers<\/strong>. Well, actually we do a Late Harvest as well, so three. In \u201918 we had quite a low crop and we made two different styles of it, from two picks that proved to have really different characteristics. The Estate version is really in that fresh style where you have that orange zest, ginger and lychee coming through. Away from that Turkish Delight flavours. It\u2019s a variety that my Mother has always loved, and we\u2019ve also had good success with it over the years.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I like that. Without the distraction of the rose petal. It\u2019s there but that\u2019s not what it\u2019s all about. You said orange but I\u2019m getting something more like lemongrass, or that preserved lemon where it\u2019s a quite savoury type of citrus flavour.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: The Reserve Gew\u00fcrztraminer is from the same year. The first one you tried had 17.5 grams of residual sugar but it\u2019s got really balanced acidity. This one here has 15 grams residual sugar but it\u2019s got a lot more creaminess and Turkish delight flavours that go with the ginger spice.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Lovely floral nose. Hugely different in texture. That one is all about the feeling in the mouth isn\u2019t it? And really good spice to that one \u2013 that\u2019s got great personality. Sometimes gewurz I find just wide and flabby. I like the cr\u00e8me fraiche character at the back of that one.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: I love gew\u00fcrztraminer. If I\u2019ve had a long week, I think I\u2019m just going to mellow out with a glass of that. But also if you put it with the right food then I think it\u2019s one of my favourite white varieties. It does also scare a lot of people though. Looking from this side of the counter you see the reactions. From \u201cWow this is amazing\u201d right through to \u201cWhy is this in my glass, and why do you make it!\u201d. It\u2019s such a fascinating variety. Do you have much at home?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve got some quite good ones sitting on the shelf. I probably don\u2019t drink it as much as I should.<\/p>

We move on to trying some of their reds \u2013 I\u2019ve had some of these before, and Laura wants me to try the new \u2018icon\u2019 Syrah.<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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LL<\/strong>: Now \u2013 this is our 2018 Syrah, and then our 2019 \u2018Tere\u2019 Syrah. The \u201918 is our Estate wine, and has some lovely succulent fruit. It\u2019s smoky but it\u2019s got this real nice attribute to it that you don\u2019t need food with it. I love Syrah but sometimes it\u2019s just a bit much. I don\u2019t find you can just chill out with a glass of Syrah, but this one I actually can. 22 months in barrel that one.<\/p>

WF: (checks the Cellar Door pricelist) $23.90 for this. That\u2019s absolutely fantastic. You\u2019re kidding yourselves \u2013 that\u2019s a beautiful wine! Hahaha. I\u2019m actually laughing about that \u2013 that\u2019s a hilarious price for something this good. Is it from here, this site?<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: The conversations I\u2019ve had about pricing our wine!!<\/p>

Everything you\u2019ve tasted today is from here. That\u2019s from the old riverbed down the back. The story behind the other wine – the \u2018Tere<\/strong>\u2019 that is going to be the sibling of \u2018The Archer\u2019 – is that we live on Maungateretere Road, and in out initial plans for doing \u2018icons\u2019 there was an \u2018Archer<\/strong>\u2019, a \u2018Dr John<\/strong>\u2019 which will be a Cab Sav and looks like we\u2019ll be making in 2020.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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But when we came across this Syrah which had such complexity and balance, with smoky characteristics coming through that we thought this needs to be given the respect it deserves. We came up with the name \u2018Tere\u2019 which means \u2018fast\u2019 in maori and it\u2019s in recognition of the river currents \u2013 the river that created the soils that we have down the back. This wine has balance \u2013 smoky but integrated oak and lovely fruit.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m going to be troublesome and say I prefer the Estate. Possibly because I\u2019m sitting here, having the \u201cTere\u201d for the first time, and maybe if I was at home with them both open, sitting in my favourite chair, it might be different. The Estate is very easy to love. The \u2018Tere\u2019 is a bit more serious and you\u2019d need time with it.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: For Cabernet Franc<\/strong>, we do it in a good, or hot year, and we\u2019re quite proud of it. It\u2019s got really nice balance on the palate, and a lovely dark plum fruit character.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s a doozy as well. I love that bright cassis fruit, but then it\u2019s got an umami, mossy, iron-earth type of savoury\/mineral. Nice whack of spice. Did you say this is a \u201919, so quite new? It\u2019s got quite a heady, intoxicating perfume and sleek on the finish. Stunning.<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: Same price as the Syrah (laughs). Cabernet Franc is just such an under-rated drink. People will say \u2018I love a good Merlot or a ripe Cab Sav\u2019 and I always tell them \u2013 \u2018try the Cabernet Franc\u2019. There\u2019s not a lot of them out there and I think we\u2019re one of the few wineries who set out with the intention of making a single varietal one. These got bottled during Lockdown and we opened that and the \u201919 Reserve Red. And this just shone. I can still remember tasting it for the first time.<\/p>

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I\u2019ll get you to taste the 2019 Reserve Red as well, to go with the story. Merlot dominant with Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. It\u2019s very smooth for its young age. Dark and a bit of nice chinese spice flavours in there. I\u2018m interested to see how this integrates over time, considering it\u2019s very palatable currently.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Merlot dominant\u2026 in a good year, it\u2019s fantastic. It\u2019s so taken for granted now isn\u2019t it? I\u2019m looking at it from a consumer point of view and I\u2019m guilty of saying \u2018yes, this is an amazing wine.. but so? And? Why?\u2019 Like just being fabulous isn\u2019t quite enough any more? I like that wine, and it doesn\u2019t have that slightly over-rich, astringent, tar-like quality that I sometimes find in Hawke\u2019s Bay Merlot.<\/p>

Finally, as we\u2019re getting well into the swing of things now \u2013 Laura suggests something more unusual and produces a smaller bottle that immediately piques my interest.<\/em><\/p>

LL<\/strong>: This is nineteen vintages of Noble Semillon<\/strong>, it\u2019s under a Solera<\/strong> system.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: OK (blustering, laughs) so \u2013 did you know? I\u2019ve written on my website how I\u2019m the only person I know who thinks things like a Solera is cool, and how everyone I try tell about it just laughs at me and rolls their eyes. I have a minor obsession about Solera wines.. and they\u2019ll say \u201cWhat\u2019s it called, a solenoid?\u201d<\/em><\/p>

LL<\/strong>: We had tried an Australian wine \u2013 De Bortoli \u2018Black Noble\u2019<\/strong> and thought \u2018I wonder if we could do that?\u2019 Started putting some back each year.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s really complex isn\u2019t it?<\/p>

LL<\/strong>: Treacle, coffee, tar\u2026<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Black tea, caramel, lime zest. That\u2019s a special wine. I love things with hidden depths and flavour to find. My wife will kick me if I go to a Farmers\u2019 Market or somewhere like that and I\u2019ll ask to try the honey. And she\u2019ll say \u201cOh God, don\u2019t start..\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

After trying a succession of really good, and pretty smartly priced wines from the Askerne label in 2020 \u2013 including a viognier that took out the Trophy for Champion wine … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":3236,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-3235","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nAn afternoon at Askerne Wines - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=3235\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"An afternoon at Askerne Wines - 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