{"id":2979,"date":"2021-02-16T19:46:45","date_gmt":"2021-02-16T19:46:45","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2979"},"modified":"2021-02-16T20:06:31","modified_gmt":"2021-02-16T20:06:31","slug":"winemaker-series-jason-stent","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2979","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Jason Stent"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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I\u2019m a big fan of the rich, generous wines from Bridge Pa fruit, and I\u2019m pleased to make it over to Paritua<\/strong>, one of the mainstays of the region, for a session with Jason Stent<\/strong>, their winemaker at the beginning of December 2020. I\u2019ve been heard to extol the virtues of Cabernet Franc from this part of the world, and Paritua produce one in the Stone Paddock – and one in the Platinum range which is above Paritua. So they actually have three ranges – Stone Paddock, then Paritua and then the black label Platinum range.<\/p>

A lot of wines from the Bridge Pa triangle seem to be a lot better after a year in bottle \u2013 they seem to round out. I often find that wines that are intended to have a bit of character, finesse, even, can be a bit disjointed just after bottling, and at Paritua they try to bottle and then give them six months before sending them anywhere for reviews.<\/p>

Jason says \u201cI don\u2019t know why that is, because we don\u2019t beat the wines up as much as we used to in the old days. With crossflow filtration it\u2019s one pass, done and dusted in one day, and the usually a day or two later it goes straight to the bottling line. We think it\u2019s the best filtration method we\u2019ve used, and find it doesn\u2019t beat the wines up too much at all. It\u2019s good for Pinot Noir as well\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I mention that I spoke to winemaker Matt Connell about that \u2013 he seems to be the one with the machine that gets used a lot in Central Otago. He\u2019s also quite against \u2018whole bunch\u2019 \u2013 so we get our teeth into that subject as well.<\/p>

Jason: \u201cFor Pinot, I haven\u2019t really made any for ages. I think 2014 was the last vintage of Central Otago we made.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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And for Syrah \u2013 not off our soils. Mainly because of the clones we have. If we had \u2018Mass Selection\u2019 I\u2019d probably look at it, but we have \u2018Chave\u2019 and \u2018174\u2019. \u2018Chave\u2019 seems to naturally have a whole bunch-like character to it \u2013 a slight stalkiness and white pepper. And it\u2019s reductive enough, so I don\u2019t really want to make it any more, or polarising. For our wines we\u2019re probably looking for more generosity and aromatics rather than that almost bitter tannin I think you get with stalks. That\u2019s the joy and fun of making wine, you\u2019re always trying things and experimenting.\u201d<\/p>

Over the past couple of years, I\u2019ve likened it to a balsam, resinous kind of character \u2013 a green-black, almost black tea tannin to it. I find it interesting personally, as long as it doesn\u2019t become the wine. We agree that there\u2019s a few Australian wines where they\u2019ve gone 100% whole bunch, and it definitely seems that the pendulum has swung too far in one direction and it needs to come back. Back in the day, Bordeaux used to be a bit like that \u2013 it would take a long time to come round.<\/p>

We start to taste a few wines \u2013 starting with Chardonnay (of course, I know..)<\/p>

Paritua make a couple of Chardonnays. We start with the tank-fermented \u2018Stone Paddock Chardonnay\u2019. It\u2019s mostly \u2018B-95 clone\u2019 although there is a small portion of \u2018Clone 15\u2019 in there too. With the tank-fermented they will use a lot of lees stirring while it is in tank, trying to increase the richness. The bunches of B-95 tend to be very consistent in size, and the same with the berries, so you end up with quite a broad Chardonnay. I\u2019d say that it is probably the perfect clone for making a bubbly. It\u2019s got a richness and not just a pure fruit-driven style.<\/p>

We also taste the 2019 \u2018Paritua Chardonnay\u2019, which is 100% barrel fermented \u2013 about 90% in puncheons and then a few barrels – mostly \u2018Clone 15\u2019 which is basically Mendoza without the virus. Not a huge amount of this wine is made. In the past Paritua sold a lot of the white grapes off because they are predominantly a red wine brand, and a lot of their wine was going to only one or two markets. Only making what could be sold in New Zealand and the US. But things change, and are picking up now as a really good distributor comes on board.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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As Jason says – \u201cIt makes all the difference, absolutely. You get excited about sending them wines because they\u2019re keen\u201d.<\/p>

The Paritua Chardonnay has about 50% malolactic fermentation, and this vintage had about 40% new oak. The oak they like to use is medium toast, and a low impact tannin kind of oak. Jason comments that they are quite specific about the oak: \u201cIt\u2019s been dried in a specific way and usually two to three year drying age.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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We use the coopers where the options are that the way the oak is stacked a lot of the tannin is washed out, but not the aromatic component. And we don\u2019t have any toasted heads in our chardonnay, syrah or red barrels. It helps lift the aroma and I prefer that\u201d.<\/p>

The Paritua Chardonnay is a classic Hawke\u2019s Bay style. It\u2019s not gone into that super reductive style. They look to retain the fruit character, keeping that citrus and stonefruit that I think you get from Bridge Pa soils. It is quite warm there and heat is retained in the evenings which can drop the acid quite a bit – often the picking is done a little bit earlier than elsewhere in the region.<\/p>

Ten years ago they might have have been picking around 24 brix, but that\u2019s been pulled back as they try to aim for around 13% alcohol. That\u2019s picking around 23 brix but looking to pick on flavour. With their vineyards literally on the doorstep, that makes the job a good deal easier. Anyone can look at the numbers but the main factor should always be flavour.<\/p>

Our thoughts turn to vineyard management, and irrigation \u2013 it\u2019s been a funny few days of weather before I visit. Jason tells me about something new that\u2019s being trialled at Paritua. \u201cWe\u2019re trying different methods for irrigation \u2013 like deficit irrigation, where instead of irrigating every few days, or a few hours every second day, we use a machine and a leaf sample and monitor it that way\u201d.<\/p>

I pose the question (one of my classic ones\u2026 bear with me) whether the science has helped – that it\u2019s come along at a time when New Zealand wine is ready to take on the world?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Jason: \u201cThe thing with the irrigation system is that weren\u2019t not overwatering, not giving the vine water when it doesn\u2019t need it. Trying to keep the curve slowly going down on a nice angle. Not too sharp, not too high. We\u2019ll see when we\u2019ve had a rain event \u2013 the graph has a spike in it. The whole method of irrigating this way is so it\u2019s more like actual rain events.<\/p>

And we have the stream that goes through the property. \u2018Paritua\u2019 means \u2018the stream over the ancient river bed\u2019 or it can mean \u2018the stream from the ancient cliff\u2019. Over there in that white shed is also our frost fighting pumps. The stream is charged by a dam just up the road, and we can open a gate and flood the stream.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We have to do that about four hours before an event, and when we have a frost we spray the whole vineyard with water and as the water freezes it gives off heat to the vine and into the atmosphere. Every time we do it it\u2019s a case of putting on a millimetre of water every hour, so a ten hour frost event is like having 10mm of rain. But it\u2019s a really good tool and we\u2019re very lucky to have it. The original owners were worried about these power lines that run right across the vineyard, if we had to use helicopters. They had just bought this land after the November 2002 frost which was extremely late and wiped out most of the crops in Hawke\u2019s Bay. And they didn\u2019t want to use frost fans, because the fans didn\u2019t work in that event – there was no inversion layer. So they wanted to use water and there\u2019s a source right there, so it made sense\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I see Hawke\u2019s Bay as a \u2018fine wine region\u2019. For example, Central and Marlborough are very well known for one varietal each; but here there are several excellent types and styles. I see Paritua as a \u2018classic\u2019 Hawke\u2019s Bay label, making that \u2018Hawke\u2019s Bay style\u2019 of wines. Obviously that will have its cycle of popularity and what\u2019s in vogue. Paritua is now owned by a group of Chinese\/kiwi permanent residents and have continued to make the styles they\u2019ve always made.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Aiming for consistency along those lines and not following the latest fashions. They have won trophies and awards in the past but for them it is more about keeping to the style, and then taking the plaudits if they win a medal or a trophy.<\/p>

Jason sees it this way too: \u201cWe\u2019re not the cool kids on the block, but we\u2019re also not trying to be pretentious or anything like that. We honour what the grape gods give us every year and do the best we can with it. We are doing everything we can in the vineyard to achieve the best quality we possibly can\u201d.<\/p>

Paritua are in conversion to organics \u2013 heading towards being fully organic after next year. Looking after the soil and the vines \u2013 with a desire to see those vines to still be productive in a hundred years time. Anecdotally, what they are seeing is that the vines are looking healthier and are more resilient when conditions are trying. It has taken its toll a little on crop level during conversion but it is bouncing back. A lot of the vineyard was being run organically as an experiment anyway, but they finally bit the bullet in 2017.<\/p>

We find three more wines we can have a look at \u2013 starting with the \u2018Paritua Scarlet\u2019, a blended red that\u2019s merlot-dominant. This 2018 is a nice bright wine. Quite light in colour but with plenty of character. Purple-blue fruit notes and some nice spice in there. More spice than pepper. Elegant and lithe on the palate – with merlot I\u2019m used to that baking spice note, but I get a bit of charred red capsicum, or fennel in this one. Jason thinks it\u2019s possibly because, in that wine, they use a Cab Sav clone called \u2018LC-10\u2019 which can have a bit of a jalapeno, chilli element to it. He adds \u201cAnd there is a lot of wild fennel in the vineyard \u2013 maybe with the flowers flying around, you might get an influence in the vines. Over the other side we\u2019ve got a whole lot of gum trees and if there\u2019s any oil in the air, with a northwest wind, that could get into the vineyard. We see it in the chardonnay if anything, because that\u2019s the closest\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Paritua tend to pick pretty ripe – the \u2018Scarlet\u2019 is 14%. It seems that with the different types of irrigation, physiological ripeness is starting to show at lower sugars, so it is possible that over the next 5-10 years the wines may be sitting around 13.5%. The intention is always to still pick on flavour, even if some years are a bit higher in alcohol. All their fruit is grown on the estate. What goes into the \u2018Stone Paddock\u2019 range is typically just cropped a bit heavier \u2013 around 2.5-3kg per vine depending on the varietal.<\/p>

Talk turns to the future, and what we think will be the next thing for Hawke\u2019s Bay. I tend to think that Syrah would be the one, but Jason has other ideas.. \u201cI think Albarino could take off. It\u2019s really easy to grow and it\u2019s somewhere in between Riesling and Chenin Blanc, in flavour profile. It\u2019s a really nice drink and I think we could do it really well here. Redmetal down the road does a really awesome one and a few people are doing quite nice ones.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s nothing like what you get from Portugal or Spain, but it does have some of those characteristics where it\u2019s got lovely acidity, nice easy drink, when it\u2019s chilled it\u2019s still aromatic and generous. We probably need to do a bit more Syrah, to get a bit more critical mass out there. We could push Cab Franc more \u2013 as a single varietal, or a dominant part of a blend. Syrah is one of the most difficult varietals to get the irrigation just right. It grows like a triffid \u2013 you leave on the Friday and come back on the Monday and you\u2019re like \u2018what happened here?\u2019\u201d<\/p>

We move on to \u2019Red\u2019 – their blend, that I\u2019ve loved in the past. Again, it is merlot dominant \u2013 as a rule it tends to be. I\u2019m of the opinion that there\u2019s nothing wrong with Hawke\u2019s Bay Merlot. It\u2019s so good that it has been taken for granted. And just perfect for a blend, to hang the other elements off. We both agree that Cabernet Franc is the glue that holds it all together. Because aromatically it just lifts the Cabernet note, and lifts the plumminess of the Merlot.<\/p>

The \u2018Red\u2019 has 40% new oak, and Paritua do all the red wines\u2019 malolactic ferments on skins, with some pretty long macerations. Typically anywhere from four to five weeks, from the time of crushing to the time of pressing. It gets crushed, occasionally with some cold soaking – but most of the time, it is allowed to sit overnight, then, the following day, it gets inoculated. Not too many wild fermentations, although Jason does note that he gets the best results with Malbecs in a wild ferment and \u201ctypically we want to get the reds going as quickly as possible. We\u2019re a pretty small team and vintage can start to drag on\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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As I\u2019ve said to a few people on my travels around – my no.1 rule is \u2018delicious\u2019. How you get there is not as important to a consumer, but how quickly it\u2019s achieved \u2013 that can be important. Increasingly, I think people are looking for wines that are accessible, and not having to be put away for cellaring for a decade before they can be drunk. And I wonder if that sense of \u2018immediacy\u2019 is a reflection of the times we live in \u2013 with people wanting their needs met instantly, but also the weird year we just had, where people aren\u2019t looking 20 years into the future, but are concerned with \u2018right now\u2019?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Jason has a think and has the final word on this: \u201cThe thing that we\u2019ve been seeing a lot is some of the wealthier people, who are living a great life now, aren\u2019t looking to put wines down for ten or twenty years and drinking them in the future. They want to smash them now\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

I\u2019m a big fan of the rich, generous wines from Bridge Pa fruit, and I\u2019m pleased to make it over to Paritua, one of the mainstays of the region, for … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2980,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2979","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Jason Stent - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2979\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Jason Stent - 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