{"id":2736,"date":"2021-01-06T23:41:53","date_gmt":"2021-01-06T23:41:53","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2736"},"modified":"2021-02-16T02:09:50","modified_gmt":"2021-02-16T02:09:50","slug":"hawkes-bay-tasting-through-the-regions","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2736","title":{"rendered":"Hawke&#8217;s Bay &#8211; tasting through the regions"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t<div data-elementor-type=\"wp-post\" data-elementor-id=\"2736\" class=\"elementor elementor-2736\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-88b4f70 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"88b4f70\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-faefde4\" data-id=\"faefde4\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-d7be049 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"d7be049\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Winemaker <strong>Hugh Crichton<\/strong> (one of the nominees for \u2018Gourmet Traveller New Zealand winemaker of the year 2020\u2019) was the winemaker who, along with <strong>Maxime Cavey<\/strong> from <strong>Hawke\u2019s Bay Winegrowers<\/strong>, took me through a presentation of wines from across the region when i visited in December 2020.<\/p><p>The location was the rather fabulous \u2018Urban Cellar Door\u2019, that Hawke\u2019s Bay Wine have set up on the corner of Warren and Heretaunga Streets in Hastings. Along with rotating feature wineries or groups presenting special themed tastings, a number of the wines on show, which are not usually available via cellar doors, will be available to taste or to purchase by the bottle.<\/p><p>Hugh introduces the tasting by telling me \u201c<em>One of the key aspects of Hawke\u2019s Bay wine is what the climate delivers for the wine styles. You can see it particularly in the Chardonnay, where we have that lovely combination of richness and definition. We get that rich concentration in the fruit, but because it\u2019s not too hot, by the time the fruit gets to the critical ripening stage, you start to get cooler nights that slows the development and retains acidity, which is critical for the wine style. We don\u2019t have to interfere too much in the vineyard and that shows that the variety has found it\u2019s natural place<\/em>.\u201d<\/p><p>The region has a maritime climate, which is particularly evident towards the coast. Out at <strong>Te Awanga<\/strong> with the cooling sea breezes, they keep acidity with the lower temperatures. <strong>Gimblett Gravels<\/strong> can be several degrees warmer. A weather graph shows records similar to Dijon, and although the wine styles can be similar &#8211; determined primarily by climate, with different soils types and practices in winemaking, viticulture will have an influence as well, of course. It shows that in Old World against New World terms, the climates can be similar, so if someone was wondering about New Zealand and wine \u2013 you can see on the graph how that comes about. And these days it doesn\u2019t mean that much \u2013 you can have \u2018New World\u2019 producers making wine in a more \u2018Old World\u2019 style than many of the producers there. If you look at how in Italy the younger generations have come through and inherited those old vineyards and labels, and done really modern things there.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-82cbc3b elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"82cbc3b\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-6a1c4b3\" data-id=\"6a1c4b3\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-f2a982d elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"f2a982d\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img fetchpriority=\"high\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"483\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Sacred-Hill-vineyard.png\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2737\" alt=\"Sacred Hill vineyard\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Sacred-Hill-vineyard.png 868w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Sacred-Hill-vineyard-300x197.png 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Sacred-Hill-vineyard-768x504.png 768w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-ddb9458 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"ddb9458\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-52c45ab\" data-id=\"52c45ab\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-8b11e0e elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"8b11e0e\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Hugh adds \u201c<em>I did a vintage in Bordeaux in \u201997 and I was flabbergasted by the technology used over there. I went round some pretty high-end Bordeaux producers, and it is amazing what is behind those beautiful Chateaux<\/em>\u201d.<\/p><p>Within what we know of as \u2018Hawke\u2019s Bay\u2019 are lots of sub regions \u2013 these in turn lead to variations in style across the region, and better ability to make great wine across a number of varieties. In the last vintage there were actually 39 varietals made in Hawke\u2019s Bay \u2013 not the five or six that most consumers would think! It does lead to a challenge to focus either people\u2019s minds, or the \u2018message\u2019 from the region. If it\u2019s said that \u2018Hawke\u2019s Bay does everything\u2019, then where is the key message in that? In a consumer\u2019s mind \u2013 \u2018everything\u2019 can equal \u2018average\u2019. There\u2019s one G.I. in Hawke\u2019s Bay, and then we have <strong>Central Hawke\u2019s Bay<\/strong> \u2013 obviously there is room to develop more. Gimblett Gravels falls outside of the G.I. because it\u2019s a trademark, and G.I.s are largely determined by political and social boundaries more so than soil type. Because New Zealand doesn\u2019t have too many rules and regulations set out hundreds of years ago, it can adapt quite quickly and be quite innovative.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-b6349be\" data-id=\"b6349be\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c51710c elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"c51710c\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>60% of the wines are coming from that central part \u2013 the <strong>Bridge Pa<\/strong> and Gimblett Gravels, and there are an increasing amount of people producing Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir from the right regions in Hawke\u2019s Bay, even though those are not varietals that springs to mind when thinking of Hawke\u2019s Bay. The majority of Hawke\u2019s Bay Chardonnay goes into still wine, as opposed to other parts of the country &#8211; Marlborough has about the same hectares planted in Chardonnay for example &#8211; where it\u2019s more of a sparkling base. Chardonnay is one of the big opportunities \u2013 where the region could be seen as one of the great Chardonnay producers of the world.<\/p><p>For the country&#8217;s red wines, other than Pinot Noir (and don&#8217;t forget, Hawke&#8217;s Bay makes some really good Pinot), Hawke\u2019s Bay is it \u2013 around 95% of the countries production. The Chardonnay selection box looks into the sub-regional variations with the breadth of winemaking styles evident from the 2019 \u2018vintage of a lifetime\u2019. Hugh adds: \u201c<em>The challenge for Chardonnay in 2019 was the picking decision. In a warm year you\u2019ve got the ability to pick late &#8211; because you can. It\u2019s often tempting to say \u2018it just needs a few more days\u2019 as look for richness, but then you can lose acidity. The <strong>2012 Legacy Chardonnay<\/strong> was a good example. I probably wouldn\u2019t have picked it, but it was very wet here \u2013 and it\u2019s turned out to be one of the greatest Chardonnays we ever released\u201d<\/em>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-2b45f11 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"2b45f11\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-802f7d8\" data-id=\"802f7d8\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-33d62b1 elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"33d62b1\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"735\" height=\"298\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-1024x415.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2739\" alt=\"Hawke&#039;s Bay Chardonnay selection\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-1024x415.jpg 1024w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-300x122.jpg 300w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-768x311.jpg 768w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-1536x623.jpg 1536w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Chardonnay-Collection-2020-image-2-2048x831.jpg 2048w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 735px) 100vw, 735px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-e5632a5 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"e5632a5\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-aafd0f7\" data-id=\"aafd0f7\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-2090a1e elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"2090a1e\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>The chardonnays are diverse in terms of where they are grown, but they\u2019re all heavy-hitters, in that it\u2019s taken longer for them to evolve.<\/p><p>The <strong>Church Road Grand Reserve<\/strong> was one that I felt for a few years \u2013 say the &#8217;14, &#8217;15 and &#8217;16s were a little out of balance, but the last couple of vintages I thought that it had been dialled back more \u2018into balance\u2019. Stylistically they are making quite complex wines that are quite clean. I remember people tasting the 2018 and commenting that they couldn\u2019t believe it was a Church Road Grand Reserve as it was quite a departure from the usual style. They are released relatively young for a big wine. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-d1634e6\" data-id=\"d1634e6\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-af9a46f elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"af9a46f\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Hugh comments: \u201c<em>Vidal were one of the early adopters of complexity in chardonnay as part of the \u2018Vidal wine style\u2019. It definitely integrates over time. The 2010 Legacy was very reductive and now drinking that you don\u2019t really see it. You can choose to keep it in \u2013 the Vidal approach was hand-picked fruit, pressed straight to barrel and naturally fermented \u2013 that\u2019s it. If that produces a more complex wine then that\u2019s a reflection of your vineyard. In fact, if anything, it\u2019s more hands-off with winemaking. You can reduction out by adding stuff, but my view was that I wanted to make this as naturally as possible. I was doing that from Day 1 at Vidal but it became a little bit fashionable. There\u2019s no right or wrong, If consumers like your style then you\u2019re keeping your market happy. That\u2019s my philosophy &#8211; rather than chasing styles. As long as reduction is just a component \u2013 you still need quality fruit, concentration, acidity and freshness and all those other components<\/em>.\u201d<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-29c21f0 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"29c21f0\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-ae6f761\" data-id=\"ae6f761\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-0c5fe79 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"0c5fe79\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>There was nothing wrong with the Vidal Chardonnays across the range \u2013 those lovely Reserve wines for example. But as you climb the ladder to Legacy you expect to find wines with more to them. And sometimes it can be that those wines are harder to love, as they\u2019re not simple, easy drinking wines that ask nothing of the consumer. It\u2019s a \u2018discovery\u2019 wine \u2013 there are things in there to find \u2013 a \u2019make you think wine\u2019. With Chardonnay there\u2019s the opportunity to go down lost of different paths, but the essential core will still be freshness and acidity and different fruit spectrums depending on where it\u2019s from. But balance, fruit purity and concentration are the hallmarks of Hawke\u2019s Bay chardonnay.<\/p><p>Te Awanga fruit is often characterised by the effects of cooling sea breezes \u2013 it can be a few degrees cooler at the coast. This keeps the acidity really fresh, but can also give an impression of salinity in the wines \u2013 probably your mind playing tricks with you as you know it\u2019s a coastal sub-region. <strong>Clearview<\/strong>, for example, have their soils tested and they aren\u2019t saline soils, so the perception \/ taste of saltiness or minerality is not coming from the terroir.<\/p><p>Great wines of the world age well and New Zealand Chardonnay has proven that it can age beautifully. These are the Chardonnays we tasted &#8211; all 2017 vintages:<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-fba45d1 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"fba45d1\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-cb0385d\" data-id=\"cb0385d\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-6b76e5a elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"6b76e5a\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img decoding=\"async\" width=\"400\" height=\"711\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Cellar-Door-Instagram-story-3.png\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2744\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Cellar-Door-Instagram-story-3.png 400w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBW-Cellar-Door-Instagram-story-3-169x300.png 169w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 400px) 100vw, 400px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-60f3969\" data-id=\"60f3969\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-c664cc3 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"c664cc3\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>Smith &amp; Sheth CRU Heretaunga Chardonnay\u00a0<\/strong>Intense, concentrated and upfront. Lemon, spice and almond on the nose. Great acidity with line and depth. Drying to the finish, like a grapefruit pithiness.<\/p><p><strong>Te Awanga Estate The Loom Chardonnay\u00a0<\/strong>Taut and firm, with good acid spine. Floral and ginger spiced aromas. Well balanced with peach and citrus and a touch of salinity in the finish.<\/p><p><strong>Clearview Estate Beachhead Chardonnay\u00a0<\/strong>Flinty notes of reduction with roast cashew and lemon sherbet. Nectarine, melon and generous seasoning of oak. Robust but complex wine. Mineral and a long, sweetening finish.<\/p><p><strong>Church Road Grand Reserve Chardonnay\u00a0<\/strong>Good dose of reduction upfront, but then well integrated and structured wine. Ripe and tropical \u2013 fig, melon, pineapple, marmalade. Biscuit and oatmeal \u2013 some new oak influence but lots of texture. Well crafted and built to last.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-31c5210 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"31c5210\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-100 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-9822468\" data-id=\"9822468\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-70eae12 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"70eae12\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Next up was Syrah \u2013 there\u2019s some real diversity across the region. You can see the pepper compound coming through, some more than others \u2013 keeping that in check is key to a good balance in Syrah. Beautiful fragrance \u2013 <strong>Trinity Hill<\/strong>\u00a0is known for this \u2013 really lifted, and lightness of colour. Winemakers are realising it\u2019s not always about colour. You can make great wines that have a lighter colour and Pinot Noir is an obvious one for that. Not too extractive and trying to concentrate things \u2013 keeping it more agile, perfumed, elegant, less alcohol and less oak. Hawke\u2019s Bay can make wines down that path rather than the richer, more brooding style, and there is perhaps a shift in direction.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-fbbcb3c elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"fbbcb3c\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-29705b6\" data-id=\"29705b6\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-b8dcfd3 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"b8dcfd3\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>Trinity Hill Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2016\u00a0<\/strong>Huge nose of bramble, spice and lilac blossom. Lighter colour but beautifully balanced and good concentration on palate. Red fruits and elderberry. Lightly peppery and with a mineral earthiness.<\/p><p><strong>Elephant Hill Syrah 2015\u00a0<\/strong>Ripe, with a roast almond, cranberry and plum aroma, lifted by pretty florals. Supple tannins. White pepper and anise to the back of the palate. Long, balanced finish.<\/p><p><strong>Pask Declaration Syrah 2014\u00a0<\/strong>Broad nose of dark fruits \u2013 damson and cherry. Bold with a deep complexity of flavours \u2013 darker with tar and espresso. Chewy tannins, with a black tea grip to them.<\/p><p><strong>Esk Valley Winemakers Reserve Gimblett Gravels Syrah 2014\u00a0<\/strong>Darker and brooding. Blackcurrant, blueberry with a gamey smoke to it. Phenolic \u2013 silken but with backbone, power and drive.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-cd04594\" data-id=\"cd04594\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-cb174cc elementor-widget elementor-widget-image\" data-id=\"cb174cc\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"image.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" width=\"468\" height=\"594\" src=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Esk-Valley-Syrah-2014.jpg\" class=\"attachment-large size-large wp-image-2740\" alt=\"\" srcset=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Esk-Valley-Syrah-2014.jpg 468w, https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/Esk-Valley-Syrah-2014-236x300.jpg 236w\" sizes=\"(max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<section class=\"elementor-section elementor-top-section elementor-element elementor-element-4e527f0 elementor-section-boxed elementor-section-height-default elementor-section-height-default\" data-id=\"4e527f0\" data-element_type=\"section\" data-e-type=\"section\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-container elementor-column-gap-default\">\n\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-c2fd4cd\" data-id=\"c2fd4cd\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-631ac48 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"631ac48\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p>Finally we moved on to what has been the Hawke\u2019s Bay trademark for years \u2013 big powerful reds: The cabernet \u2013 power, intensity, smoky, meaty, espresso, balsam, beautiful fruit purity \u2013 blackcurrant and aromatically perfumed. Well balanced tannins as well. <strong>Sacred Hill<\/strong> was velvety and textured with nice weight, sweet and sour, harmonious. Umami, bright, intense. <strong>Irongate<\/strong> is from a similar region and same year but quite different \u2013 in winemaking styles what they do with it. It\u2019s floral but also moss and bark. Merlot has serious structure if a little closed but needs time.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-column elementor-col-50 elementor-top-column elementor-element elementor-element-3f8613f\" data-id=\"3f8613f\" data-element_type=\"column\" data-e-type=\"column\">\n\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-wrap elementor-element-populated\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-element elementor-element-20af012 elementor-widget elementor-widget-text-editor\" data-id=\"20af012\" data-element_type=\"widget\" data-e-type=\"widget\" data-widget_type=\"text-editor.default\">\n\t\t\t\t<div class=\"elementor-widget-container\">\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<p><strong>Villa Maria Reserve Hawke\u2019s Bay Merlot 2016\u00a0<\/strong>Herbal, earthy, bramble aromas. With tight tannins, depth, integrated acidity and soft texture. Red-fruit crumble, vanilla, pastry flavours. Spicy, cedar oak.<\/p><p><strong>Babich Irongate Cabernet Sauvignon Merlot Cabernet Franc 2015\u00a0<\/strong>Mossy, plum, mint and herbs on the nose. Grippy tannins, tart acidity but with a complex, layered palate. Chocolate, mushroom, bark. Lighter, sweet, long finish<\/p><p><strong>Sacred Hill Special Selection Brokenstone 2015\u00a0<\/strong>Bright with floral nose. Herbal, with ripe black and red fruits. Intense but harmonious. Tannins integrating nicely, acidity and a silky texture all in balance. Sweet &amp; sour umami-like note to the finish.<\/p><p><strong>Vidal Legacy Cabernet Sauvignon 2014\u00a0<\/strong>Aromatic &#8211; smoky, balsamic, cassis &amp; mint notes on the nose. Power and intensity. Black fruited with bitter-sweet, mocha and chorizo underlying flavours. Good balance \u2013 supple tannins. Spicy, dry and long finish.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Winemaker Hugh Crichton (one of the nominees for \u2018Gourmet Traveller New Zealand winemaker of the year 2020\u2019) was the winemaker who, along with Maxime Cavey from Hawke\u2019s Bay Winegrowers, took &hellip; <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2747,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2736","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"<!-- This site is optimized with the Yoast SEO plugin v27.5 - https:\/\/yoast.com\/product\/yoast-seo-wordpress\/ -->\n<title>Hawke&#039;s Bay - tasting through the regions - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2736\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Hawke&#039;s Bay - tasting through the regions - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Winemaker Hugh Crichton (one of the nominees for \u2018Gourmet Traveller New Zealand winemaker of the year 2020\u2019) was the winemaker who, along with Maxime Cavey from Hawke\u2019s Bay Winegrowers, took &hellip;\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2736\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/wine.folio.1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2021-01-06T23:41:53+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2021-02-16T02:09:50+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2021\/01\/HBWG-Cellar-Door.png\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1261\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"525\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/png\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"10 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2736#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2736\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"David Walker Bell\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/8b8706e15ba32f9782222c431fa75d9f\"},\"headline\":\"Hawke&#8217;s Bay &#8211; 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