{"id":2700,"date":"2020-12-31T20:28:06","date_gmt":"2020-12-31T20:28:06","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2700"},"modified":"2020-12-31T20:37:20","modified_gmt":"2020-12-31T20:37:20","slug":"a-series-selling-wine-in-new-zealand-part-5","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2700","title":{"rendered":"A series: Selling wine in New Zealand \u2013 Part 5"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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A series of interviews and articles with a theme of buying and selling wine here in NZ. <\/strong>Part 5: <\/strong>The Sommelier. <\/strong><\/p>

As part of the \u2018Buying and selling wine in New Zealand\u2019 series of articles – I wanted to talk to a sommelier. As luck would have it, the opening of an excellent wine bar in one of the neighbouring suburbs gave me the opportunity to that as well as delve into the idea of a \u2018local\u2019 bar that serves as a focus and gathering point for the local population. I talk to Matt Aitchison<\/strong> in the new Stanley Road Wine Bar & Bistro<\/strong> in Milford.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: I\u2019m doing an article about \u2018What makes a Cult Wine?\u2019 as well as this series on \u2018Selling, and buying wine in New Zealand\u2019; which talking to yourself, is perfect for.<\/p>

Matt Aitchison<\/strong>: I\u2019m not sure I\u2019m necessarily into the Cult Wine kind of aspect personally. There\u2019s a few trends I would say happening at the moment. More towards the Biodynamic and Organic, and people are definitely trying to track those. What are you thinking about examples of cult wines?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m not looking for someone\u2019s opinion that Kusuda, for example, is a cult wine. More a thought on why that is? As a sommelier are there wines you\u2019d like to offer, but can\u2019t get?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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MA<\/strong>: It does come down to the fact that not everyone has heard of it, not everyone can get it. So it\u2019s exclusive. It\u2019s like major brands \u2013 they price it high, they make it rare. The rarer it is, the harder that people try to obtain those wines. But more in the private collectors realm of wine is where you have these conversations. Not retail and restaurant sales. We need to get wine to sell, and we need a few bottles of this and that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you have a Specials board where you\u2019ve literally got one bottle of something?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: I have had that in the past, but this is a new business and I\u2019m working on that. Probably next year \u2013 a Cellar list for example.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m often disappointed with wine lists in restaurants \u2013 I suppose I\u2019m a tricky customer. I\u2019m very New Zealand focussed and I like my whites more than reds. I had a look at your list.<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: What did you think?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Interesting. Some obvious choices, but some really interesting ones. And a few up and coming wines that I think are ones to watch. The Mahi Alchemy for example. Not one that\u2019s well known but a great Chardonnay from Marlborough. A Mahi Chardonnay was one of only two to break into our Top 10 tasting that weren\u2019t from Hawke\u2019s Bay. A lot of good New Zealand wines from Dog Point, Forrest and Rippon, for example, on your list.<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: this is an interesting project because I\u2019ve always worked in the City, but I\u2019m from the North shore. I worked on the Shore in the late 90s and knew that it\u2019s probably more conservative over here than it is over the bridge. I don\u2019t want to go too cool for school\u2026. and be empty. So I needed to have a few safeties on there as well as hopefully bring a few eclectic choices in.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s an interesting perspective to have. And whilst I\u2019m sure that people drink amazing wines at the French Caf\u00e9 \u2013 I wonder do they do so at Cassia?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: They do. You have to write the list for the project. So Cassia was a very specific project \u2013 you\u2019ve got to write a wine list for spicy food. And the food comes first. Here, it\u2019s more 50\/50. More of a conversation here as we had a consultant chef and it was built from the bones up. I definitely cater for the crowd, covering all bases. Interesting though \u2013 I put on a cheaper champagne option \u2013 Lanvin \u2013 as well as our normal Laurent Perrier. $18 price point and $25 dollar price point. And the $25 one is far exceeding the other one.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Champagne\u2019s an interesting one isn\u2019t it? You drink champagne, often standing up, at a do \u2013 but do you taste champagne? Do people know what their tastes in champagne actually are?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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MA<\/strong>: I do. And we also have to have a New Zealand Methode as well. Every restaurant I\u2019ve run in New Zealand has definitely had one or two by the glass. We\u2019ve got Maude Methode here, from Central Otago. It\u2019s nice and crisp and clean.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I love Maude, I think they are excellent across the board. Right from their whites to those new Single Vineyard Pinots.<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: I think kiwis are looking for a Methode \u2013 we\u2019ve become more \u2018local\u2019. People are supporting local and supporting New Zealand products definitely. Not just in what they\u2019re consuming but also in noticed in conversation too. We are the local place. People are avoiding the City, even. And then we wiped out the harbour Bridge, so that was an issue. But definitely during this COVID-19 situation \u2013 people have stayed in the suburbs. So the word on the street in the wine and restaurant industry is that the suburbs are booming. And then the City is struggling a little bit. Before this I was filling in with The Good Group hospitality in the CBD and they\u2019re right in the mecca of downtown. So we had all the construction outside for the 18 months I was there. The whole ferry basin has been a bit of a mess. Generally here though it\u2019s been very good. The local clientele is a mixed, interesting, eclectic bunch.<\/p>

Going back to the cult wines, it\u2019s definitely a conversation I\u2019ve had, and it comes down to the same names \u2013 like Bell Hill. At the French Cafe we had limited allocations for those as well as cult-ish wine like Pyramid Valley. Wine is so personal \u2013 everybody has a different palate and a different taste and sense of what they\u2019re looking for. I was at a blind tasting yesterday and it was amazing the different opinions that came out. We were all sommeliers and wine professional – and it was interesting to hear the different critiques of the same wines. Some people are more sensitive to reduction, and then there was a corked wine there. They knew it was corked when they served it. And it was 1000% corked. But the reduction. There were two or three of the four wines like that. Everyone\u2019s senses are just so unique.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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It’s a trend that people have gone away from Sauvignon Blanc, but I think it\u2019s something they will come back to. New Zealand has spent a lot of time concentrating on the export market and just making those sauvignon blancs \u2013 pristine, classic examples. And just mass manufactured them and exported them. And that\u2019s been a money maker for New Zealand. It\u2019s 80% I think of New Zealand, but wine in restaurants has definitely steered away from that because it\u2019s over exposed. In the \u201880s and \u201890s we were the same with heavy Chardonnays, and I think it\u2019s an over exposure to Sauvignon Blanc. Then people will get a bit more refined in their winemaking and we\u2019ll come back to Sauvignon Blanc \u2013 that will happen.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What do you think is the next thing for New Zealand?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: I\u2019ve tried a couple of Sauvignon Blancs that I\u2019ve really enjoyed, but I think Pinot Noir will continue to grow, and it is diversifying. It continues to mature, as we have the Central Otago, but also the Marlborough, Martinborough and Waipara ones, so there\u2019ll be more diversification and regionalisation \u2013 probably into appellations. Syrah is definitely growing, and Gimblett Gravels is still pretty young in the realm of things.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Natural wines are interesting, but have no longevity \u2013 as wines for a start \u2013 it\u2019s not the future. We have organics and biodynamics on the list for those who want it. There are bars and restaurants that focus on natural wines specifically where you can get \u2018cloudy wines\u2019, as I call them. People who I\u2019ve worked with \u2013 who are younger than me \u2013 are very much into the natural, organic, cloudy wines. For me I just want a wine to taste like wine. And from a sommeliers point of view, people just want to know \u2013 is it quality and is it delicious?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: do people specifically ask for a wine to go with something \u2013 is that still a thing?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: Yes, but it depends on the business model. French Caf\u00e9 for example is more degustation or a la carte and single dishes. Whereas here, or at Cassia for example, people are having and sharing multiple dishes at the same time. So you go for texture or feel for how the general suitability would be. You can be more precise if you\u2019re doing a la carte. I did fine dining both here and overseas for 13 years. It\u2019s pretty intense and high pressure.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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In Simon Wright\u2019s time at the French Caf\u00e9 and at Bennelong at the Sydney Opera House, where there were sommeliers, sub-sommeliers and waiter captains. Proper. It\u2019s really interesting because you get an opportunity in a higher-spend per head to sell a few more high-end wines to people who are really into it, which is great. I\u2019ve been in a few restaurants where the winelist is like a book, but sometimes it\u2019s hard to find a wine when you\u2019ve got a book \u2013 which is where the sommelier comes in. You\u2019re trying to enjoy dinner with your guests. So you might do your homework before, and pre-select your wines.<\/p>

For here, for a winebar, I didn\u2019t want it to intimidate \u2013 just a simple double-sided card. I didn\u2019t want a book \u2013 that\u2019s exactly what I didn\u2019t want. We may have a special list \u2013 we\u2019re looking at that. And every single dish and wine combination can be different. In a fine wine setting, with the dish in front of me, I\u2019ll come up with four options that I think will work. And I always test, test, test. And then you might find one flavour component clashes with something in the dish, and although you think it might work in your head\u2026 when you taste the wine and dish together it will be very clear whether it works or doesn\u2019t. You just know when it fits, because it sits. The theory and your experience is the same from setting to setting.<\/p>

I\u2019m quite analytical. Where some people are quite creative, I\u2019m more analytical. When I\u2019m writing a wine list it will take me three weeks, because I need to go through and make sure I\u2019ve got all my regions covered, varietals, styles, residual sugars\u2026 so it\u2019s a lot. Whereas some people \u2013 Sid Saharwat for example is much more creative. When he writes a menu \u2013 will literally sit down and write it in five minutes. For me, I need to look deep into the detail. I need to be 100% comfortable.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Do you get people who come here just for a wine?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: Absolutely. We open at 3 o\u2019clock in the afternoon Tuesday and Wednesday, and midday at the weekend. People will come in at 3 or 4 o\u2019clock in the afternoon and have a nice glass of wine. And people are open to suggestion which is good. They\u2019ll say \u2018I\u2019m just looking for an interesting wine\u2019 and they are happy to try something new or different. Or have a glass of prosecco.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Why would they do that rather then buying a bottle of prosecco and having it at home? I\u2019m interested in that, because I do find that a lot of socialising is at people\u2019s homes? Is it a pre-dinner thing \u2013 like before we go to a restaurant they\u2019ll come for a glass of wine?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: This is a much more social environment. In the afternoon, here \u2013 it\u2019s just a social catch-up. Normally in small groups, a table of six or four. Then we swing into dinner about six o\u2019clock. If someone\u2019s here at six they can stay for dinner, or some start arriving at 6.30pm for dinner.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: are you going to have extras \u2013 like events or themed nights?<\/p>

MA<\/strong>: We are set up for winemakers dinners and that kind of thing, and quite a few people are interested. The dining room is set up perfectly, and we have good audio that we plug in mics and so on. Around 45 seats which is ideal, and it\u2019s a nice room to speak to.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A series of interviews and articles with a theme of buying and selling wine here in NZ. Part 5: The Sommelier. 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