{"id":2288,"date":"2020-10-22T07:45:37","date_gmt":"2020-10-22T07:45:37","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2288"},"modified":"2020-10-22T08:03:10","modified_gmt":"2020-10-22T08:03:10","slug":"winemaker-series-nadine-cross","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2288","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series – Nadine Cross"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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We visited the home of one of Central Otago\u2019s premier labels \u2013 Peregrine \u2013 and toured the amazing, iconic building earlier this year, as the team were starting to ramp up towards vintage.\u00a0Definitely one for our list of people we needed to talk to was winemaker Nadine Cross<\/strong>, and she took us through the winery and then a tasting of the Peregrine range.<\/p>

WineFolio<\/strong>: It seems pretty calm in here today \u2013 what are you guys up to at the moment?<\/p>

Nadine Cross<\/strong>: Everything happens at this time of year \u2013 blending, getting ready for bottling, getting ready for harvest\u2026 we\u2019ll be bottling Pinot and Chardonnay, just finished blending all of those. Filtering next week, bottling the following week.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Is the fruit just from the vineyards around the winery?<\/p>

NC<\/strong>: We\u2019ve got a small amount of vineyards around us at Gibbston, and then we\u2019ve got Estate blocks at Bendigo, so I see quite a number of vineyards across the region. We keep all those blocks of pinot separate, and see all the components of everything. So we can taste with everybody and see all those blocks and talk about what we\u2019re looking to achieve, improve on, and what style we are getting. We\u2019re always tasting.<\/p>

And we get a feeling for how we\u2019re managing crop levels, canopy management and everything out there. We\u2019ve been organic for ten years on our Estate blocks and from 2017 the whole Peregrine range is certified organic. I\u2019ve been here nearly ten years and I\u2019ve seen great changes with vine age and health, and environment improvements with organics. Our experience also helps \u2013 our team is developing, with knowledge and site experience \u2013 knowing how things react – because every year is a challenge and you learn something different. It\u2019s never the same and we\u2019ve really improved.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you see the winemaking as more of an art, or is it a science?<\/p>

NC<\/strong>: For me, a little bit of both, but having that scientific knowledge which lets you then go with your gut feeling \u2013 your craft. It takes a lot of experience to do hands-off winemaking. It takes time to learn to do nothing. You\u2019re checking more \u2013 smelling, touch,\u00a0seeing \u2013 all of that is critical to knowing if you do have to step in. You have to have that knowledge. One example might be \u2013 that\u2019s the right fruit to do \u2018that\u2019 on. I go on my gut feeling a lot. Something like \u2018I know this flavour\u2019 so decisions to pick that quickly, and you know how that moves. Walking in a vineyard and doing the tasting \u2013 you get a certain feeling then. And also, too, when we\u2019re making the smaller wines \u2013 we may only have a couple of blocks of Sauvignon Blanc that we pick off \u2013 and do a couple of picks \u2013 and I\u2019m thinking about blending then \u2013 the different components then. Sometimes it\u2019s about getting it right in the vineyard, first.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Is the Peregrine Pinot Noir \u2013 the wine, I would say you are best known for \u2013 the most important wine that you make?<\/p>

NC<\/strong>: Yes, the Peregrine Pinot Noir is our most important wine. Two things \u2013 that\u2019s the wine that\u2019s most accessible to everyone, and I don\u2019t want to be making a whole lot of other wines that pull out the heart of that wine. But also, and more for me as a winemaker \u2013 it\u2019s more about making every wine that quality and style and that expectation.<\/p>

People might recognise us for Pinot, but, to me, all those Peregrine wines when I line them up\u2026they all have that quality, flow through with that elegance, minerality, freshness and structure. In Australia they see an enormous amount of Central Otago Pinot Noirs, and across the board the quality is excellent. We\u2019re all a little bit different but people have got a great choice out there. But sometimes it is the other varieties, where there\u2019s not so many people making them \u2013 so opportunities arise for us that we can get a Chardonnay or a Pinot Gris into a restaurant in Sydney. But then they love the quality for that wine, and then come to the Pinot. So, often, in the marketplace it\u2019s not our Pinot that might get in and listed first \u2013 it might be another variety and they can open the door. People might see 200 Central Otago Pinots, but how many Central Otago Chardonnays do you see?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Is Central Otago Pinot established enough now that it\u2019s its own thing?<\/p>

NC<\/strong>: I think it has been a process of learning for everybody. Now, we need to be proud of what we do. We are what we are, and the Peregrine Pinot is a blend of Central Otago \u2013 it\u2019s Bendigo, Pisa and Gibbston blend. We\u2019ve established a higher percentage of Bendigo in it as we develop, but it\u2019s what we think represents the best.<\/p>

Bendigo is exciting \u2013 there\u2019s probably not a lot of land left to plant; and it\u2019s a newer region, although our vines there are 18 years old now. It\u2019s a warm site and initially we got a different tannin structure out there, and more darker red-fruit profile. But I\u2019ve seen that change \u2013 we used to see a bolder, grippier tannin.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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But now as the vines have got older, and with organics, and better vine health; now we have a much more supple and velvety tannin structure. That lovely texture and richness to the wine; and in Pisa I\u2019m seeing much more forward, mid-palate \u2013 a lot less tannin and acidity. Even off Bendigo \u2013 we have four different sites at different elevations, and different clones even \u2013 and that has effects.<\/p>

We\u2019re seeing more structure in the fruit, and probably using a bit less new oak – but it\u2019s still an important component though. I like one-year old oak to be honest – one or two year old oak is really important. A good new barrel shouldn\u2019t look \u2018oaky\u2019 either \u2013 it should show depth and be supporting the fruit, not smothering the fruit.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: And you make \u2018The Pinnacle\u2019<\/em> wine \u2013 is that off a certain spot?<\/p>

NC<\/strong>: We don\u2019t make it every year. In seasons where we think we\u2019ve got something special we\u2019ll make a Pinnacle. Normally, that\u2019s a bit of a \u2018feeling wine\u2019 to be honest. It used to be \u2018best barrels\u2019 but that\u2019s not what it\u2019s about now. Since 2012 it\u2019s been a single site, or single block. In 2012 it was Gibbston 100% – that\u2019s what I felt; so it\u2019s seasonal and site-specific. In \u201914 and \u201916 and now \u201919 we\u2019ve made a Pinnacle and they\u2019ve all been from Bendigo. Those have been off different blocks as well. So maybe that\u2019s a sign of the times \u2013 we\u2019re seeing some exciting things coming out of Bendigo.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tRead our Peregrine Pinot Noir review >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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By now we\u2019ve walked through the Barrel Hall to the Tasting Room, and we\u2019re into their rather nice wines..<\/em><\/p>

NC<\/strong>: We\u2019ve done a ros\u00e9<\/strong> since 2012 and it\u2019s always been quite light in colour and a dry style. Before ros\u00e9 got super popular we were making this style. We haven\u2019t done a huge amount, and have made the same amount for the last five years. It came about because we were planting at Bendigo and it\u2019s a great thing for us to use our young vines for. So it\u2019s the fruit off our young vines, which is generally a lot more \u2018fruity\u2019 and floral in style; and can be picked early so we don\u2019t stress the vines. We keep that nice acidity you can see in the wine, the freshness, and I don\u2019t like picking up that tannin in ros\u00e9, so I don\u2019t do any skin contact. It\u2019s straight in the press, so the only skin contact time is as it\u2019s going through the press.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Often with those young vines, I\u2019ve got small berries, so a lot of skin ratio to juice \u2013 so have to be careful with what we\u2019re doing \u2013 settling, sulphurs and all the rest. Keeping that floral freshness and not extracting tannin and phenolics into the wine.<\/p>

Pinot Gris<\/strong> is the biggest volume of white that we make. All hand picked and we do lots of whole-bunch pressing \u2013 we want to keep that acidity and structure.\u00a0 About 15% goes into the old Chardonnay puncheons with a bit of lees contact there. The tank too will sit on lees for about 3 months post-ferment, as we want that mid-palate texture. We want balance \u2013 acid and sugar \u2013 but I do love that natural acidity that we get. That texture and that mouth-feel \u2013 it\u2019s almost like you were licking that schist rock from the vineyards. That sparkliness that you get with the really fine texture and the minerality. I like to think that we retain that in all our wines. It\u2019s an important wine for us \u2013 the public really love it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tWe review the Peregrine Chardonnay >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t
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We make a couple of Rieslings<\/strong> \u2013 the dry one, and make an off-dry one with about 20grams of residual sugar, and we do a Late Harvest Riesling<\/strong> as well. We do a dry Sauvignon Blanc<\/strong> as well \u2013 we get a bit of limeyness and fennel, savoury characters.<\/p>

Chardonnay 2018 \u2013 we planted 5 hectares of Chardonnay<\/strong> in the last ten years up at Bendigo \u2013 next to Quartz Reef. And we have another block up on the terrace, so a similar height to Prophet\u2019s Rock. It\u2019s been exciting and fun seeing that evolution of Central Otago Chardonnay; and I think it\u2019s the variety that we should watch out for.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\tOur guide to the Gibbston wineries is here >><\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/span>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/a>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t
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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

We visited the home of one of Central Otago\u2019s premier labels \u2013 Peregrine \u2013 and toured the amazing, iconic building earlier this year, as the team were starting to ramp … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2289,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2288","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series - Nadine Cross - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2288\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series - 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