{"id":2168,"date":"2020-10-05T08:27:58","date_gmt":"2020-10-05T08:27:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2168"},"modified":"2020-10-11T03:00:41","modified_gmt":"2020-10-11T03:00:41","slug":"winemaker-series-john-hancock","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2168","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: John Hancock"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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At the end of June this year, I sped down to Hawke\u2019s Bay to catch up with a few winemakers \u2013 old and new, and see how they had got on with the latest vintage under COVID restrictions, and talk about plans for the future. At the end of one particularly busy day, I settled in at John Hancock\u2019s place to see what he\u2019d been up to\u2026<\/p>

John Hancock<\/strong>: \u201cI didn\u2019t make any wine this year apart from Chardonnay. I did, but I sold it to Moana. Because I\u2019d got little bits of stock and I thought with COVID and all the rest of it I don\u2019t really want to be building up bottle stock. I\u2019ve learnt that lesson. You get excess stock and you\u2019re carrying the cost \u2013 storage and finance costs, it can be a killer.<\/p>

That\u2019s where Marlborough is lucky. I don\u2019t think they\u2019ve all got it right of course, otherwise they\u2019d all be doing really well. I think they\u2019ve undersold in a lot of cases \u2013 in terms of price. Take a look, I\u2019ve just seen today some of the en primeur from Bordeaux \u2013 the Sauvignons coming out and they\u2019re at least twice the price of New Zealand \u2013 and why? It would be interesting actually because I have no idea what sort of volumes of sauvignon and semillons might be out of Bordeaux\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: One of the things I\u2019m looking at in terms of \u2018themes\u2019 that I want to write about is how we buy and sell wine \u2013 what are the drivers?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Yes \u2013 why is someone happy to pay $9.99 for a ros\u00e9 and then someone else will pay $90?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: When I was at Terra Sancta and they told me they want to make the best ros\u00e9 in the world. We\u2019ll start here and make the best ros\u00e9 in New Zealand. So they\u2019re putting their oldest vines\u2019 grapes into ros\u00e9. I think it\u2019s called First Vines, and I wasn\u2019t sure if it was young vines \u2013 as in first crop\u2026 but no, it\u2019s their oldest vines.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: and what are they selling it for?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think it was $40 or $50?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Well you can\u2019t even sell top Chardonnay for that, so good luck to them. And you\u2019ve got to really earn it. Look at Homage \u2013 that\u2019s taken twenty years, and it\u2019s still only small quantities.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: They\u2019ve changed the label again. I did prefer the old, old label \u2013 back in 2010 for example.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: The Americans wouldn\u2019t live with that. Apparently they took the design of this label away from New Zealand and did it all in the States.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: and now they\u2019ve got a screwcap on it, so how\u2019s that going to go down in America?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Well I was always against screwcaps. Not to say that a screwcap might not be a better answer for the wine. But for the image and marketing point of view. It has to be cork.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well I was surprised. It caught me by surprise actually \u2013 I didn\u2019t realise it was on the cards.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: what did you think of the wine?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: The \u201918? Erm, it was really good. Quality. What you\u2019d expect.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: It\u2019s had some quite good write ups. Joelle reckons it\u2019s the best Homage yet. I haven\u2019t seen it so I\u2019m not really sure. It would have to be pretty good to be the best one.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s a very smart wine, but is it the best one they\u2019ve ever done? If I had to put the ones I\u2019ve had, just on this trip, side by side I\u2019d say that Rod McDonald\u2019s Trademark was as good, and Kate Radburnd\u2019s was perhaps the best. Hers was very complete and beautiful, already.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I\u2019ve tried the \u201917 Homage. Personally I was always against releasing that. Not that the wine\u2019s not good. But \u201917 was regarded as not a very good year. 2013 and 2015 would be good years.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I had a 2015 Gimblett<\/em>, and that was good. That\u2019s a clever wine.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I very much like The Gimblett<\/em>. Right from the first one which was 2005. That wine is one of the better value reds in the country. It\u2019s a $100 bottle of wine for thirty.<\/p>

WF:<\/strong> I went to a big \u2018Fine Wines of New Zealand<\/em>\u2019 tasting last year and that stood out. I\u2019ve still got the list where I was making notes, and it\u2019s got a big circle around it. Not just because of price. It just stood out.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Syrah, it\u2019s Hawke\u2019s Bay\u2019s best wine, probably. But man it\u2019s hard to sell. Tough gig.<\/p>

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WF: <\/strong>Isn\u2019t it more of a point of difference though than, say, a Bordeaux Blend \u2013 more Hawke\u2019s Bay specifically?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Maybe, but people aren\u2019t necessarily looking for a point of difference. I think they stick to the same. So a Bordeaux blend is much easier to sell than a Syrah.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s interesting \u2013 and that $30-40 market is so congested as well isn\u2019t it?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Always. When we first came out with those wines in 1998 was it? 1997 was the first vintage we made Gimblett Gravels wines. Those wines were the same price then as they are now. That says one thing, maybe. Perhaps we were overpricing it in the first place.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Let\u2019s try some of your wines!<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: sure \u2013 this is new \u2013 the \u201919 Ros\u00e9 – we\u2019ve just released it now. It\u2019s 100% Cabernet Franc, from Bridge Pa. It\u2019s from the same vineyard that produces that Pyramid Valley Cabernet Franc.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Is it? From the Howell vineyard<\/em>? How much Cabernet Franc is there around? I like it \u2013 on it\u2019s own.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: There\u2019s a bit. Trinity\u2019s got a reasonable amount. Grown well it makes a really good wine.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Beautiful colour. I hate those ones where it looks like someone\u2019s dropped a packet of lollies in it\u2026glowing pink. That\u2019s the colour a ros\u00e9 should be.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: That\u2019s how it is, it\u2019s not been messed with at all. And its actually machine harvested, straight into the press, squeezed out and that\u2019s it! Just on skins from the vineyard to the press, we don\u2019t hold it on its skins or anything. The previous one was hand picked and whole bunch pressed. And an almost identical colour. It didn\u2019t make much difference, except $700 a ton less. The new machines are great. At Moana Park we put in a sorting machine at the winery. It\u2019s not an optical sorter \u2013 one of those Pellencs \u2013 it\u2019s an engineering feat.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m not a big ros\u00e9 drinker. I\u2019m traditional, I like it in Summer, with food. In a restaurant, with a plate of fish. And people will comment on it \u201cI thought you were Mr Chardonnay?\u201d but I do like it in the right setting.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Well it\u2019s such a versatile wine. You can drink it on it\u2019s own if you want quite happily \u2013 and people obviously do, in substantial volumes. It used to be a 3 month thing \u2013 summer only, but now its spread much more widely than that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And I know people who drink it all day. Well, not ALL day obviously, but into the night. Whereas for me it\u2019s a lunchtime drink. Who\u2019s your market for it? It\u2019s a got a very pretty label.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: Well, who do you think? The Havelock North Ladies. In fact our two biggest outlets for that, and we don\u2019t have a lot. Deliciosa<\/em> in Havelock North does it by the glass and it sells. That\u2019s a great little place and all the winemakers tend to congregate there pretty regularly. And The Urban Winery<\/em> \u2013 they go through a couple of dozen a week.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think Aucklanders would like that too \u2013 especially with that label \u2013 that\u2019s a smart move having that on there.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: We call it Lillies<\/em> because we were looking at family history, and my great great great grandparents came out to Australia from Cornwall in 1861 I think it was. And the ship they came out on was called Lillies. And funny, as we were harvesting the stuff those lilys were flowering at the side of the road next to the vineyard.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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This is the 18 and the 19 \u2013 we\u2019ve still got a reasonable amount of the 18 left.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Different colours?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Yeah, part of that will be the hand-picked versus the machine picked again. You tend to get a little bit more colour with machine harvesting.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Really, well that\u2019s something I didn\u2019t know. I\u2019m surprised!?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: They\u2019re predominately stainless steel, a bit of barrel ferment. They\u2019re very similar.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I like the Moana Park Chardonnays, they\u2019re good \u2013 you make those as well? And they\u2019re so cheap!<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH: <\/strong>Yes, sadly. The new branding is Moana<\/em>, not Moana Park<\/em>, and they\u2019ve just come out with a couple of bubblies which have got the new label on it. They look quite good. A good step in the right direction.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And your label is Hancock & Sons..?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Yes, there\u2019s one upstairs, he\u2019s based in Wellington actually. And then there\u2019s the winemaker one. He works with Rod out at Hawke\u2019s Bay Wine company. And we get together and chew the fat about these and what we\u2019re going to do. These are both a blend of \u2013 in fact I think the \u201918 is all Clone 95 \u2013 the \u201919 is partly 95 and partly Clone 15. From Paritua in Bridge Pa. I think the \u201919 is going to develop quite nicely. That \u201918 is really only just starting to open up at all, now. Tried to get away as much as possible from that \u2018matchsticky thing\u2019. I didn\u2019t personally but a lot of people got a bit carried away with that I think. Hugh was one of them \u2013 those Legacy wines, a couple of them, the vintages were a bit extreme.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Those big monsters can be hard work, yes. But he really nailed his colours to the mast with that style didn\u2019t he? I mean, now it\u2019s considered the modern style; but back in day it was considered a fault, and you\u2019d have your wine thrown out for that.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Absolutely. And I\u2019m still inclined towards thinking that it is \u2013 to a degree \u2013 as well. Even though some winemakers encourage it, I think doing it a lot less now than they used to. Sometimes you have to take things to the extreme. I was the person in New Zealand who did full-on barrel fermentation before anyone else was doing it – certainly commercially. And we made the thing as big and brutish as we could \u2013 that was the whole idea. And then you tailor that, and wind it back until you get it to where it needs to be. Sometimes you can\u2019t do that without going to the extreme.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve had the Church Road Grand Reserves<\/em> for a few vintages now, and they\u2019ve definitely dialled that back. It\u2019s brought it more into balance in my opinion. These chardonnays of yours are nicely balanced too.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I have a tendency not to get the wines too high in acid. I like the Chardonnay to be nice and soft and round. Still with good pH, but not those high acids. One of the Aussie writers, said they\u2019d opened one of these Yarra Chardonnays that had been really pushed at the time by the critics, and they all thought it was bloody wonderful, and he said \u2018it\u2019s just gotten harder and harder – it hasn\u2019t improved at all\u2019. And they really chase that in the Yarra and Mornington Peninsula. People like Tom Carson who\u2019s a big buddy of Warrens\u2019 actually, and that pushed Warren down that way for a year or two.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Rule no.1 it\u2019s got to be delicious. For me, rules no.2 and 3 are probably balance and texture. Some people it\u2019s all they talk about is texture. Texture is the thing that gets it further down the line to greatness.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I totally agree.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: So how do you achieve really good texture in Chardonnay?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: With Chardonnay it\u2019s really the lees contact.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: So what do you think of these egg fermenters then? Because then the lees all suspended isn\u2019t it?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: Is it?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Well I don\u2019t know, I\u2019m a writer. Maybe it\u2019s all just some sort of witchcraft.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I\u2019m not interested.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: So you like your barrels?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Yes, and I\u2019m sticking with 225s. Not least because they\u2019re easier to handle than 500s or 600s, but it\u2019s traditional and I\u2019m a Burgundy person. I was lucky enough to work at Domain Prieur<\/em> under Jacques Prieur<\/em>. They\u2019re a small producer in Meursault who have something like eleven Grand Cru vineyards. From Chambertin down to and including a decent slab of Montrachet, so I really enjoyed that. Martin Prieur<\/em> worked all round the world, and every night after work he\u2019d pull out a whole bunch of wines and they wouldn\u2019t necessarily be Burgundies \u2013 they\u2019d be wines from all over the world. One night though was ten vintages of the Le Montrachet. That was a fascinating little tasting.<\/p>

Can\u2019t guarantee what this will be like, it\u2019s still very early days, but it has been filtered. It\u2019s knocked it around a little bit.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I was interested to try this, it sounded intriguing.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: There\u2019s only 4 barrels of it. We put out a little en primeur thing for it. 2 first orders \u2013 one was Kate, and the other was Rod McDonald!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s a big boy Chardonnay this one \u2013 really rich and textural. I can taste the new oak in it \u2013 it\u2019s got \u2018reserve\u2019 written all over it. Full Malo?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: No malo. But it has no malic acid. I use a yeast that degrades malic acid. Drops the acidity down. I like it. That what we started and always used in Morton in the early days. That Black label Chardonnay used that particular yeast. So this is not indigenous, uninoculated at all.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: So you\u2019ve tricked me there! And you built it this way. I would have said full malo. It\u2019s certainly creamy, textural. I love this wine \u2013 that\u2019s going to be a cracker. It\u2019s one of the nicest Chardonnays, that I\u2019ve not had before, in a long time. I think this will go very well. I like that it\u2019s luscious but then it\u2019s got that drying element at the finish. Very classy, it\u2019s lived up to my expectations.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: With the low acidity it almost tastes sweet, although it\u2019s definitely got no sugar in it at all. That\u2019s what I was after. I want a plush mouthfeel to the wine, not a screaming acidity. You need structure.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I do love me a Chardonnay. I have this list in my head of my favourites, and the problem is when you find a new one, that could be a contender.. then one of the others has to drop out. And they\u2019re like family \u2013 how do you choose your favourite child?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: With the Fine Wines of New Zealand \u2013 you have to have a bit of provenance, you can\u2019t just be a one-off. One of the criteria is you have to have a certain number of vintages \u2013 you have to earn a place.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I like that list. There\u2019s not much I disagree with on there. And if you started at the top and worked your way through you\u2019d be doing yourself a good turn there.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: This next wine is 80% Cabernet Franc Bridge Pa, and 20% Gimblett Gravels Cab Sav. This is the Howell Vineyard again.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I really liked the Cabernet Franc from Smith & Sheth that was from there. And I liked the Syrah too, really fresh and focussed \u2013 I know Mike Henley<\/em> was at Trinity, and a couple of those wines I can really see echoes of Trinity Hill in them, to me. I love this wine, but I do like Cabernet Franc a lot. I wish there was more of it around. And that bit of Cab Sav in there has really giving it nice structure, bit of tannin.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: The 2019 was planned to be 100% Cabernet Franc, and it looked good in barrel, but it\u2019s not been an easy sell. $30. Not easy. We\u2019re changing to silver on black for the next one, and moving to a Burgundy bottle.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I like the black on black label \u2013 very smart. It reminds me of that Pask Declaration label, which I think is good. Classy. Part of my background is in design, so I always look for what\u2019s on the label. And my tourism work is still my main focus. I know people are saying \u2018oooh tourism is going to fail\u2019 but I don\u2019t reckon it will be as bad as we think.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I\u2019ve got a gut feeling that none of it is going to be as bad as people said. Having said that, I see today that Qantas were laying off six thousand people? They got a massive spike in cases. People are just stupid aren\u2019t they?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: One positive is that it\u2019s go people talking openly about things they don\u2019t normally talk about. Even politics. I don\u2019t think there\u2019s enough rational discussion about that in New Zealand. And the more it\u2019s discussed, the more accountable the politicians will be held to. Also, with the COVID-19 pressures I thought it was important to come down to Hawke\u2019s Bay now, so that I can tell some stories ready for people to come out and visit in the Spring and Summer. Wine Tourism is a great thing to do when you\u2019re travelling New Zealand because a vineyard and a Cellar Door is a lovely place to spend an hour or two.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Moana has a nice little Cellar Door and they do pretty well there. They do encourage the buses, and it\u2019s no more than ten minutes from Church Road and Mission. The Puketapu Tavern is nice little country pub with good food.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Coming back to this Cabernet Franc, I like that edge of resinous to it \u2013 not in a bad way, slightly balsamic. It\u2019s got something of that green whole-bunch vibe to it. What do you think about that, because it can be polarising \u2013 the profile that whole bunch can add to a wine?<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: This isn\u2019t whole bunch, but probably quite a lot of whole berries. Destemmed but don\u2019t crush. I\u2019m not a big fan of it, that whole bunch thing. I\u2019m not sure for me that that\u2019s the direction. I definitely wouldn\u2019t have gone there for Homage. Warren\u2019s really keen on it. Quite a few of the Syrah producers around us are all fiercely in love with Jamet \u2013 a Cote Rotie producer and he does quite a lot of whole bunch.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: the theories I\u2019ve heard are along the lines of \u2018you either do it boots and all, or don\u2019t do it \u2013 you don\u2019t dabble\u2019. So don\u2019t use 15% whole bunch, which just makes that a feature of your wine. Do it 100%, and then it\u2019s integrated into the wine \u2013 it is the wine. Like using too much oak \u2013 we want balance. I\u2019d say that after Rule no.1 \u2013 Delicious! we want Balance and Texture?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: Absolutely agree. Balance being no.1.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Ooooh, no \u2013 delicious is always no.1!!! Balance and texture right there though. I haven\u2019t done any judging, but if I did, that\u2019s what I look for.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: Well it\u2019s never that black and white you know? It\u2019s an opinion \u2013 on that glass at that time. I met a guy at a wedding back in Australia in February \u2013 Mark Malouf<\/em> and he has this things called \u2018Wine worth writing about\u2019 and he has fabulous descriptors of the wines.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I find blind tasting very hard! I\u2019ll often go \u2018this is syrah\u2019 but I\u2019m not sure that it\u2019s not a Pinot! Because I find some are so close these days! And I never win those blind tastings or options things. I just second guess myself.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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JH<\/strong>: I tell you what, as you get older it gets more and more difficult. You just lose the edge. I don\u2019t taste anywhere near as well as I used to. I\u2019m Australian and in those early days, my early vintages were in Australia. My graduation year \u2013 I graduated at the end of 1973. I was one of the few guys in my year who didn\u2019t have a job the whole time I was at Roseworthy, and I basically fell into the best job of the lot \u2013 of anybody, because everybody else was already taken, and I worked at Leo Burings. They were the leading white wines producer in Australia, and a guy called John Vickery who was voted the winemaker\u2019s winemaker \u2013 the greatest of all time by the winemakers in Australia. And he was my first boss. I love Eden Valley. If I\u2019d have made a lot of money doing wine \u2013 not that anyone does \u2013 I\u2019d have gone back to Eden Valley. Not only the Riesling, but the Shiraz from there is bloody fantastic.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s interesting that when I was still there people didn\u2019t own vineyards on their own \u2013 they were part owners and had a little block of grapes on their farm. That was how most of it was. It wasn\u2019t just grape growing \u2013 they were farmers as well. And most of the vineyards were pretty small, apart from things like Yalumba in Pewsey Vale that was quite substantial. Significantly different from the Barossa floor.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: New Zealand still has lots of potential though, and hopefully Climate Change won\u2019t bugger up that long growing season that we have, and end up too hot and ripening too quick.<\/p>

JH<\/strong>: I guess the biggest issue is there\u2019s not that many areas where there\u2019s sizeable slabs of land for growing grapes. I think one of the last potential areas is central Hawke\u2019s Bay. When Frank Yukich<\/em> at Montana was looking to expand dramatically, and they had vineyards largely in Gisborne \u2013 Frank looked seriously at Central Hawke\u2019s Bay. And this is before Marlborough. When they applied to plant it, they had so much objection from the local farmers, and he decided it was all too hard and went to Marlborough. It\u2019s got really good potential, and it\u2019s quite a lot cooler than here. Frost is an issue, but it is in a lot of parts of the world.<\/p>

At Trinity we worked with a vineyard down at Porangahau \u2013 directly east of Woodville. Lovely Pinot and Sauvignon \u2013 the Sauvignon was great. It worked really well but it\u2019s just too isolated.\u00a0In the Trinity days, Colin Reynolds<\/em> who was a property developer flew us down there in a helicopter to have a look at Waitaki because he wanted to get a whole bunch of land. And I though \u2018this isn\u2019t for me\u2019 \u2013 I didn\u2019t get a good feeling about it at all. It didn\u2019t say \u2018buy me\u2019 to me.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

At the end of June this year, I sped down to Hawke\u2019s Bay to catch up with a few winemakers \u2013 old and new, and see how they had got … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":2169,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":true,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-2168","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: John Hancock - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2168\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: John Hancock - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"At the end of June this year, I sped down to Hawke\u2019s Bay to catch up with a few winemakers \u2013 old and new, and see how they had got …\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=2168\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:publisher\" content=\"https:\/\/www.facebook.com\/wine.folio.1\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:published_time\" content=\"2020-10-05T08:27:58+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"article:modified_time\" content=\"2020-10-11T03:00:41+00:00\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:image\" content=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/10\/AD7Q4462-1024x600.jpg\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:width\" content=\"1024\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:height\" content=\"600\" \/>\n\t<meta property=\"og:image:type\" content=\"image\/jpeg\" \/>\n<meta name=\"author\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:card\" content=\"summary_large_image\" \/>\n<meta name=\"twitter:label1\" content=\"Written by\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data1\" content=\"David Walker Bell\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:label2\" content=\"Est. reading time\" \/>\n\t<meta name=\"twitter:data2\" content=\"20 minutes\" \/>\n<script type=\"application\/ld+json\" class=\"yoast-schema-graph\">{\"@context\":\"https:\\\/\\\/schema.org\",\"@graph\":[{\"@type\":\"Article\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168#article\",\"isPartOf\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168\"},\"author\":{\"name\":\"David Walker Bell\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/#\\\/schema\\\/person\\\/8b8706e15ba32f9782222c431fa75d9f\"},\"headline\":\"Winemaker series: John Hancock\",\"datePublished\":\"2020-10-05T08:27:58+00:00\",\"dateModified\":\"2020-10-11T03:00:41+00:00\",\"mainEntityOfPage\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168\"},\"wordCount\":3966,\"commentCount\":0,\"publisher\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/#organization\"},\"image\":{\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168#primaryimage\"},\"thumbnailUrl\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/wp-content\\\/uploads\\\/2020\\\/10\\\/AD7Q4462.jpg\",\"articleSection\":[\"Winemaker Series\"],\"inLanguage\":\"en-US\",\"potentialAction\":[{\"@type\":\"CommentAction\",\"name\":\"Comment\",\"target\":[\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168#respond\"]}]},{\"@type\":\"WebPage\",\"@id\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168\",\"url\":\"https:\\\/\\\/winefolio.co.nz\\\/?p=2168\",\"name\":\"Winemaker series: John Hancock - 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