{"id":1898,"date":"2020-08-14T22:57:15","date_gmt":"2020-08-14T22:57:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1898"},"modified":"2020-08-14T23:26:18","modified_gmt":"2020-08-14T23:26:18","slug":"no-compromises-radburnd-cellars","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1898","title":{"rendered":"No compromises – Radburnd Cellars"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Driving away from Auckland in the first outing since we were allowed to travel (in the first set of COVID-19 restrictions) at the end of June – my first appointment in Hawke\u2019s Bay is to catch up with Jen Cho<\/strong> and Kate Radburnd<\/strong> at Radburnd Cellars<\/strong> in Bay View. Kate should need no introduction, with a f\u00e9ted career and a Hall-of-Fame reputation; but I was keen to see what she was doing now, with a new label of wines that had made some noise amongst my peers.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: I was just passing by Linden Estate<\/strong> on the way here and called in to see their new buildings \u2013 it\u2019s looking very flash up there \u2013 that Barrel hall \u2013 wow, it\u2019s like a cathedral!<\/p>

Kate Radburnd<\/strong>: Yes, they are very kind to us, because when we operate vintage we need the floor space to be empty, so all our barrels go up there to their gorgeous barrel hall, so they are very helpful to us.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I\u2019m surprised how collaborative the NZ wine industry is? Michael at Kumeu River<\/strong> was telling me about how they borrow Tony\u2019s kit from Soljans<\/strong> to help out with their Cremant sparkling for example. And I think that Sparkling, along with Chardonnay, could be a big thing for New Zealand.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: It\u2019s interesting you say that, because when I was at Vidal<\/strong> we made Methode, and when I went to Pask<\/strong> we did that and George let me have the gear from Vidal because they weren\u2019t using it \u2013 so that collaboration has always been there.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We etched our style where we left it on lees for about ten years, which was quite extraordinary. They\u2019re worth having a look at. We\u2019ve always loved Methode though \u2013 you talk about Chardonnay, and that early pick just gives it beautiful acidity and such a gorgeous base for all those styles.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Yes, and I talked to Clive at Nautilus<\/strong>, where they leave their non-vintage on lees for about 3 years, which I thought was quite a stretch for non-vintage \u2013 the quality is excellent. Then I saw Rudi at Quartz Reef<\/strong> when I was in Central in February. So some real potential about. I was also amazed just how much of a patchwork some of Central is \u2013 Felton Rd in Bannockburn is just a quilt of small vineyards. I do wonder if some of the bigger operators might muscle in down there.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: I think they subtly have been. And I think the absolute charm is the small operators producing these completely unique one-offs really. Their own individual businesses.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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KR<\/strong>: And that\u2019s what Radburnd Cellars<\/strong> is about \u2013 this venture is all about us being able to do what we want to do how we want to do it, with no compromises. One of the reasons I\u2019ve done so much judging over the decades, is because it keeps you in touch with all wine styles across all price points and it gives great context, to everything. We look at the New Zealand wine industry and Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot are well established, and we believe here in Hawke\u2019s Bay it\u2019s absolutely got to be about the top end. It\u2019s got to be about quality. Nothing to do with volume. We are never going to compete on price. So we\u2019ve just got to do it the best way we can. It\u2019s as simple as that. Here we are just trying to do everything \u2013 from picking, making, to packaging \u2013 the best way we can.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Did you feel you couldn\u2019t do that at Pask<\/strong>?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: My evolution as a winemaker is culminating in what we are doing here. And when I started off everything was about being as bold, and as punchy and impactful as we could. I think as I\u2019ve matured \u2013 which is now nearly forty years of making wine \u2013 everything couldn\u2019t be the more opposite end of the spectrum. It\u2019s all about subtlety, elegance, and about beautiful development.<\/p>

And, in fairness, the Declaration<\/strong> range at Pask was an absolute expression of what as a winemaker we could do. I had started that range many years before, and it had started off on that bigger, bolder path. And if I was perhaps still at Pask now, there would be a subtle change to what we were doing. But the absolute refreshing thing about starting here is that it\u2019s incredibly exhilarating to do it exactly as you want. With no encumbrance. That\u2019s what we\u2019re doing and I hope you\u2019ll taste some of the wines today, and they are quite different in style.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: How do you think it will go without having an entry level to your range? Are you planning on doing that?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: No, not currently. We\u2019re just making small parcels of really special wine. There is no fallback position. And that\u2019s where for us it\u2019s really important that we have fabulous relationships with our growers. It\u2019s all hand picked and hand sorted, so that if there were potential problems, that should have, and would have, been dealt with well before harvest time. Then I feel it\u2019s my responsibility that everything\u2019s got to translate to how we want it to be.<\/p>

For example Ian and Linda Quinn at Two Terraces Vineyard<\/strong> are perfect partners for us. They are perfect for me \u2013 inland and elevated sites. The time they both spend in the vineyard \u2013 they are absolutely dedicated and meticulous. It just aligns perfectly with what we are trying to do.<\/p>

Jen Cho<\/strong>: One of the interesting things is that when I joined, I asked Kate just what you asked \u2013 would we be looking to do a lower price tier?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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And Kate replied \u201cJen, why would I? I want to do the best I can \u2013 I don\u2019t want to spend time making everything else as well\u201d So our focus is very clear \u2013 to produce the very best. And that\u2019s a really nice environment to work within. Having that one purpose.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: And I\u2019ve learnt that. That\u2019s part of the evolution. We are not everything to everybody. We know that our market is much smaller.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think it\u2019s right for someone like yourself, with the respect you have, to be able to say that.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: Before we even started this business we did a whole lot of market validation work. And we spoke with industry people, colleagues, consumers, other winemakers\u2026 just to sort out where we were at. When you next see Kingsley<\/strong>, he did say that he thought we needed a bit of gold on our labels!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Did he? I thought it looks very Chanel?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: He loves gold, we have pursued \u2018understated\u2019 bravery, absolute simplicity.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Chardonnay comes from the Riverview vineyard<\/strong>. These are very old Mendoza<\/strong> chardonnay vines. Beautiful vineyard and lovely fruit. And the other vineyard is out at Bridge Pa \u2013 again old Mendoza, hand-picked.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s very burgundian!<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: Really? You don\u2019t think it\u2019s very New Zealand, very Hawke\u2019s Bay?!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It is as well. It\u2019s a sort of marriage of the two. Burgundy in ethos, but Hawke\u2019s Bay in personality. It\u2019s not just all about the fruit, for the sake of it. It\u2019s got that structure.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: I think Chardonnay is grown beautifully throughout New Zealand, not just in Hawke\u2019s Bay, but I tend to see, certainly from the Mendoza that I\u2019ve worked with over the years, that citrus backbone. Whether it\u2019s grapefruit, lemon\/lime, but we layer that with yeast contact and it just evolves beautifully over time.<\/p>

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We lease this winery, it was the old Wishart winery and had been empty for four years. So when I came in to make wine, I inoculated some as I just thought as it hadn\u2019t been used for ages.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I like that this doesn\u2019t have that reductive quality. It\u2019s quite pure, and ready as well \u2013 it\u2019s right there already.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: We\u2019re not looking for that reduction. We\u2019re looking for purity of fruit, and the backbone of all the wines we make is that lovely fresh acidity that will age beautifully. This is made as a food wine, to be enjoyed around the table.<\/p>

JC<\/strong>: We released this last August and it was tasting youthful, focussed and the citrus character was pulling through back then. But, boy in the last six months it\u2019s quite incredible the evolution! That\u2019s the beauty of this wine \u2013 it\u2019s made to cellar over five years plus, so over time that\u2019s going to be exciting.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s the best aged New Zealand chardonnay you\u2019ve had \u2013 something 15 years old maybe?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: That\u2019s a really good question, I\u2019d have to sit and think about that, but I wouldn\u2019t hesitate to say I\u2019ve seen 15 year old chardonnays that looked amazing. And I think we\u2019re better at it now \u2013 our viticulture is much better than it was in the 80s, and the technology helps.<\/p>

The chardonnay is 100% malolactic fermentation and it goes that through that quickly. I don\u2019t tend to let these wines sit until Spring to go through malo, so I inoculate and it goes through quickly. I like to get the wines sulphured early and still lees stir, but deliberately made to keep it quite contained. I love the concentration from Mendoza, those little chicken berries. We have consistently used the same fruit from \u201818 \u201919 and \u201920, and the only change is the addition of Ian and Linda\u2019s chardonnay from Two Terraces in 2020. Theirs is new, whereas the other two are 30-year old; so we\u2019ve got their young vines and we\u2019re really looking forward to continuing to work with them.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: What\u2019s that going to do to the mix?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: I\u2019ll bring you a sample out of barrel\u2026 again it\u2019s got beautiful acidity. This is Ian and Linda\u2019s \u2013 it\u2019s out of a one-year old barrel.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: This is just theirs? You\u2019ve kept it separate obviously?<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: Yes, and it\u2019s indigenous. I keep very single block separately as well, so I can see very enunciation. There\u2019s certainly a freshness to that!<\/p>

WR<\/strong>: Heck, that\u2019s going to be fantastic!! Pineapple, and richness..<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: What we\u2019re really after, and it will be interesting when we try this Syrah. It\u2019s that brightness of acidity that just really makes the fruit. I really believe the essence of New Zealand wine is the purity of fruit because we\u2019ve got this wonderful long, cool growing season. We can concentrate these flavours.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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That acidity brings it all together and makes it happen in the best way it can. I see that acidity and I can feel the fruit lifting.<\/p>

JC<\/strong>: the beauty of being so hands-on here and the parcels of fruit is that Kate knows exactly every single barrel. They\u2019re like different children. And the difference between each barrel is quite incredible when you taste them side by side. Could be the same parcel of fruit, picked at the same time, but one was wild fermented and the other was not. Being able to taste those differences to see what ingredients will go into the final blend is really interesting.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think it\u2019s interesting that you would take first year fruit \u2013 almost a \u2018brave\u2019 move to incorporate that into wine.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: Well, I really want to work with him. You just know when you meet someone if you\u2019re aligned in your thinking. I know they\u2019ll produce the best possible fruit they can for us. And we\u2019ll do the same in translating it into wine. They\u2019ve been an absolute asset of an addition to Hawke\u2019s Bay.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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KR<\/strong>: So \u2013 Syrah. This also comes from an inland, elevated vineyard for a later and slower ripening in the Dartmoor Valley, and the rest is from the Bridge Pa triangle. Much darker, denser, richer fruit, whereas the other vineyard has more of those red fruits. As it has aged in barrel, you see softer blueberry-ish notes develop. All of the oak we use here is 3-year seasoned French oak. So, very deliberately, what we are after here is something that Syrah delivers very well \u2013 and that\u2019s a length of flavour. They don\u2019t have to be big, extracted wines to have a mouth presence that goes on and on. And I really think Syrah does that beautifully.<\/p>

When we hand pick the fruit it gets chilled overnight so that it\u2019s nice and cold when we process it in the morning. It goes on the sorting table and gets any last little bits that we need to out. Then we\u2019ve got a Pellenc de-stemmer that\u2019s designed for hand-picked fruit, and it de-stems and gives us perfectly whole berries. We do a little bit of foot stomping on some it \u2013 not all of it. And in the old days I\u2019d be going for a hot ferment, adding tannin\u2026 but this doesn\u2019t really get above 26 degrees. It\u2019s just very gentle. We move the juice over the skins twice a day. This is still quite tight, but there\u2019s some lovely fragrance there which I like as part of Syrah. I think that will just blossom in the bottle.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: It\u2019s slightly Pinot-like. It\u2019s got that beautiful delicacy to it, despite the ripeness of the fruit. Earthy and savoury. It sounds like I\u2019m taking you away from the fruit \u2013 I\u2019m not at all \u2013 that\u2019s all there, but it\u2019s not all about that. There\u2019s something a whole lot more going on. Super juicy and heading in that blueberry direction. And not peppery \u2013 lots of exotic spice, but more cardamom, lavender or sumac and some glossy, balsamic notes. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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JC<\/strong>: An understated opulence. In 6 months time this is going to be very interesting. The chardonnay and this are obviously part of the same family. The style for Radburnd Cellars is very distinct.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: We\u2019ve got a few Hawke\u2019s Bay Syrahs lined up to try tomorrow, including the new Homage<\/strong>, and I think our style could be an outlier. I do think ours has a lovely elegance and it will blossom in the bottle.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: What is this? This is quite exciting too.<\/p>

KR<\/strong>: That\u2019s \u201919 Syrah. That\u2019s the two vineyards blended in there but it\u2019s still in barrel. And I\u2019ve got another couple of components that will go in there. It was a riper vintage. One of the things that we\u2019re saying as a business is that we are embracing vintage variation. Because it\u2019s small volumes and we hand-pick and we can do it perfectly – as in the way we want to do it. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Often the difference is showing vintage variation, and conditions. In the last vintage \u2013 which is our most full-on, impactful, busiest time, with everybody around. Well, the girls worked from home and I was here on my own, except for the days we process, when I could bring four people in to help. It was just so weird. The fact that we had lovely fruit helped enormously.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I can see that Syrah becoming a \u2018talked-about\u2019 wine \u2013 like some of the hard to get wines like Kusuda<\/strong> or Bell Hil<\/strong>l. Are you going to be in Duty Free \u2013 with that immaculate packaging?<\/p>

JC<\/strong>: We are more focussed on selling direct to consumers because we want meaningful relationships with our customers. However, we do work with some fantastic partners who understand what we do and support us in sharing our story to their customers.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\n\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\"Radburnd\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Driving away from Auckland in the first outing since we were allowed to travel (in the first set of COVID-19 restrictions) at the end of June – my first appointment … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1899,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1898","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nNo compromises - Radburnd Cellars - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1898\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"No compromises - Radburnd Cellars - 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