{"id":1811,"date":"2020-08-03T09:06:07","date_gmt":"2020-08-03T09:06:07","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1811"},"modified":"2020-08-03T09:15:07","modified_gmt":"2020-08-03T09:15:07","slug":"man-o-war-kulta-masterclass","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1811","title":{"rendered":"Man O\u2019 War Kulta Masterclass"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Midwinter is, for me, usually a time to get into my favourite wines. New discoveries can wait until Spring, when I\u2019m out and about and poking into places for wines still to be found. An opportunity arose this month to do a little of both \u2013 mostly a chance to compare some iconic favourites to a couple of old world ones and even a brand new wine. Hosted at the Northern Club<\/em> \u2013 nice \u2013 by Atelier Nash<\/strong> in collab with Man O\u2019 War<\/strong>, this \u2018Kulta Series \u2013 Chardonnay masterclass\u2019<\/strong> was a match made in heaven.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Flight lists read like an extract of this infamous Top-10 list in my head (yes, I know) that I\u2019m asked about every week. But with a twist \u2013 the last three wines are two excellent Burgundies, and finally a new un-tasted wine from Man O\u2019 War.<\/p>

So we start off with a Blanc de Blancs sparkling and Bluff oysters. Classic. This match has been honed over centuries. The wine is bone dry, and I mean dry, not a hint of dosage or sweetness here at all, and a shivering acidity. I\u2019m a latecomer to bubbles, and it\u2019s still growing on me. I mean, who \u2018tastes\u2019 sparkling wine. Sure, we all drink it\u2026 but I like tasting wine \u2013 that we have with food, that we lose ourselves in. Anyone every get lost in a glass of bubbles? This. This however is a smart wine. The freshness, vitality and actual deliciousness of this is for real, and quite something.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s from the Kulta range and called Tulia<\/em> Method Traditionalle<\/strong>, and I\u2019d call it quite an ambitious wine. Readers will know that I think that our NZ sparkling can be our \u2018next big thing\u2019. This one is definitely a mark in the sand for whoever wants to be crowned the best of our best. No. 1 and Quartz Reef will be there for sure, but it\u2019s going to be a high quality contest.<\/p>

The wines are introduced by Duncan McTavish<\/strong>, the Man O\u2019 War winemaker, and David Nash<\/strong>, in a seated setting in a quiet room at the back of the Northern Club \u2013 the table laid with fabulous grazing platters and we\u2019re on the best of the stemware around \u2013 wine just tastes better from these Jancis Robinson x Richard Brendon glasses. Now, I\u2019m a fan of my Riedel glasses at home, but these light and perfectly balanced are frankly another step up.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u201cFlight One\u201d is a run through of three New Zealand Chardonnays that could reasonably be considered classics of the modern style. We\u2019ll be having conversations about this type of thing for our lifetimes \u2013 my list of favourite NZ chardonnays is subjective, liable to \u2018seasonal variations\u2019 and each to their own I say. At least tasting one against another in flights allows for assessments of style, crafting and discussion of such nuances as malolactic fermentation, new oak levels etc \u2013 for me, I can do this all night, hahaha.<\/p>

Pitted against these is the Valhalla<\/strong> from Man O\u2019 War \u2013 David introduces it as a \u201ccult\u201d wine and asks my opinion. Hmmm, I\u2019m on the spot but not sure if I\u2019d say it is that. To me, a cult wine is harder to get than something like a Valhalla. It\u2019s a great wine, and ten years ago developed a real following \u2013 it was a few people\u2019s go-to; and like the Grand Reserve or a Legacy, paved the way for what I colloquially call \u2018the new wave of NZ chardonnay\u2019 \u2013 big, characterful, flinty, textural beasties.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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So, we have, in order, the Valhalla \u201819<\/strong> \u2013 Kumeu River Mate\u2019s Vineyard \u201919<\/strong> \u2013 Villa Maria\u2019s Keltern \u201919<\/strong>, and Neudorf Moutere Home Block \u201917<\/strong>. Now, the 2014 Neudorf has had a 100-point score from Bob Campbell. Kumeu River Single Vineyard chardonnays are so good someone made a film about them. And the Keltern is not only one of only a handful of New Zealand vineyards that have slipped into our vocabulary as \u2018named vineyard wines\u2019, it\u2019s also our most-awarded winery\u2019s flagship chardonnay. Quite the line up.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Facts are I love all these wines, and the next 20 minutes isn\u2019t a hard ask. I do learn new info on a few of these \u2013 no malo in the Valhalla (I\u2019m surprised), and that people present regard the Keltern vineyard to be in a bit of a Hawke\u2019s Bay no-man\u2019s land (I don\u2019t!) These are superb wines, and we settle into comparing their virtues, fuelled by a little prosciutto, salmon and sourdough.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Valhalla is punchy and savoury on the nose, with a bright acidity, great concentration and an untypical level of pithy tannin profile to go with the big flavours and linear nature. Mate\u2019s new vintage is a beauty \u2013 the first for a while that I would happily drink on release. Purity of fruit \u2013 pear and citrus flower but also brooding and smoky. Villa Maria\u2019s Keltern is usually a big wine, and this new 2019 shows a whack of new oak, 50% malo, and is richly sweet-fruited. The Neudorf is perhaps the most \u2018complete\u2019 wine in this set \u2013 helped by the extra bottle age, and it\u2019s a highly structured wine. Lively, with a mineral tang and layers of complexity.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u201cFlight Two\u201d takes a slight stylistic turn in my opinion \u2013 with a nod towards the old world. First up is Prophets Rock Cuvee aux Antipodes Blanc \u201918<\/strong>; then bookended by the new Man O\u2019 War Kulta Chardonnay<\/strong> are two frenchies \u2013 Domaine Jean Marc Boillot \u2019Truffieres\u2019 2018<\/strong> from Puligny Montrachet; and Domaine de la Vougarie \u2018Clos Blanc\u2019 2018<\/strong> from Clos de Vougeot. Prophets Rock is a beautiful, fragrant chardonnay \u2013 crafted with a clarity and finesse, and possessing a creamy texture and subtle length.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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If the two New Zealand chardonnays here are \u2018burgundian-inspired\u2019, then sure enough the next two wines are not from NZ. I drink them anyway. The Boillot wine is, again, very mineral, a delicate balance, with a line of oyster shell right through it; but the Clos Blanc shows raw, refined power. A bold example with huge concentration. The Kulta is cut from a similar cloth – weighty and intense, particularly on the nose; but also a pithy, tannic undertow and finish. I reviewed this one specifically here: www.winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1799<\/a><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The Man O\u2019 War Kulta is more than just a range of wines \u2013 the concept is to bring people together around some special events, wine and get to peek behind the farm gate, and maybe hang out a bit at a special property. The website tells you more about what\u2019s involved, and I believe that Atelier Nash will be doing more events in future as well. This was a superb evening \u2013 an old school night of fun, conviviality and celebrations of great wines.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Midwinter is, for me, usually a time to get into my favourite wines. New discoveries can wait until Spring, when I\u2019m out and about and poking into places for wines … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1812,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1811","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine","category-wine-review-by-winefolio"],"yoast_head":"\nMan O\u2019 War Kulta Masterclass - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1811\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Man O\u2019 War Kulta Masterclass - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Midwinter is, for me, usually a time to get into my favourite wines. 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