{"id":1764,"date":"2020-07-26T03:52:39","date_gmt":"2020-07-26T03:52:39","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1764"},"modified":"2020-08-15T05:03:23","modified_gmt":"2020-08-15T05:03:23","slug":"kumeu-river-2019-chardonnay-releases","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1764","title":{"rendered":"Kumeu River 2019 Chardonnay releases"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Sitting down to taste the brand new releases from \u201can exceptional Vintage of unsurpassed quality\u201d<\/em> at Kumeu Rive<\/strong>r this weekend \u2013 we\u2019ve been looking forward to the 2019s<\/strong> for well over a year now, and to be honest, making space in the cellar \u2013 lockdown helped! \u2013 for a few.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Everything at Kumeu River is made in a similar way \u2013 all hand-harvested, processed at the site at Kumeu, fermented using wild yeast, and most of the wines are put in oak barrels, with a varying degree of new oak. All go through 100% malolactic fermentation, and then aged on lees for about 11 months.<\/p>

Keen to taste the Rays Road Chardonnay<\/strong> \u2013 as when I first tried this \u2018new\u2019 single vineyard wine, I told Paul Brajkovich that my first impressions weren\u2019t great \u2013 that it didn\u2019t live up to the standard of the other single vineyard wines. The bar is set very, very high by Kumeu River, and I found this austere, minerally wine too acidic and closed to believe that it fitted with the other stablemates \u2013 here was a lean, mean Chablis chardonnay that wanted to kick a ball about with it\u2019s Cote de Beaune Grand Cru siblings, but simply didn\u2019t have the skills to make the team. <\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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From the limestone hillside inland at Ruakaka in Hawke\u2019s Bay, now being farmed without irrigation in an effort to drive the vine roots deep into the limestone to extract that mineral character. Fermented 20% in stainless steel, with the rest in older barrels, it shows a classic oyster-shell chalkiness, hazelnut and floral nose. On the palate it shows more of that distinctive flintiness but with a lime zest, chamomile and peach character. Acidity seems noticeably lower this year \u2013 softer and more approachable. Clearly one that\u2019s ready to age and soften in the bottle still though. I liked this a heap more this time! I\u2019d soften my approach so far as to say it \u201cfits in\u201d now. 93pts<\/strong>. One to watch.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The next wine is the one that has made the label\u2019s international reputation \u2013 The Estate Chardonnay<\/strong>. The single vineyards came later, but this wine has always been a selection of the best of the Kumeu sites. The 2019 features six sites and uses 20% new oak. Being made for over 30 years, but the Brajkovich family can\u2019t remember a better example \u2013 a chardonnay at the peak of its game. The \u201919 wine has a spring flower, roast cashew, spicy bouquet. Concentrated and slightly flinty with peach, lemon sherbert flavours, and a spritzy, lively acidity. 93pts<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Mate\u2019s vineyard has always been a single vineyard wine, but it was only in 2006 that the Coddington vineyard<\/strong> fruit was bottled as a single vineyard wine. It\u2019s a step up from the Estate, but still has a very ripe, peachy character, but with a deeper richness and sweetness. More nutty oak is evident, but in line with the overall flavour and balance. Not overblown as the fine acidity maintains an edge from being too generous. Drinking beautifully immediately. 93pts<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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Hunting Hill<\/strong> is always a very fragrant style, and so it is this year. With a distinctive lime blossom fragrance. Crisp and linear, with roast chestnut, peach and spicy cr\u00e8me brulee layers of flavours. I can see this on the table at Christmas with a roast turkey or crayfish bisque. A more delicate and pretty wine that really sits up, and almost dances across the palate. It\u2019s leaner and less showy than both it\u2019s Kumeu neighbours, but with a finesse that often makes it people\u2019s favourite. The persistant floral character keep going right through to the long, slightly quartz-like finish. 92pts<\/strong>.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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My favourite of the range has always been the Mate\u2019s Single Vineyard Chardonnay<\/strong>. Smoky and concentrated with notes of preserved lemon, biscotti and nectarine. A tautness to the palate, although overflowing with a richness of golden peach, nougat and poached pear. I\u2019ve described this as complex, almost chaotic in it\u2019s youth; but it\u2019s always one for the long haul \u2013 coming out just beautifully after a stretch of 7-8 years. This young one is more open than some first offerings of recent years, but still with a sense of brooding density \u2013 the nature of the Mendoza clone offering a lovely concentration but also a little tannin that can take a while to fully integrate. The rounded texture is already evident \u2013 lush and persistant. Elegantly oaked, and with a backbone of tense acidity, it\u2019s nevertheless an opulent, heady drop. 96pts<\/strong>.\u00a0Still my favourite\u2026 and this year by quite a bit.<\/strong><\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Sitting down to taste the brand new releases from \u201can exceptional Vintage of unsurpassed quality\u201d at Kumeu River this weekend \u2013 we\u2019ve been looking forward to the 2019s for well … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1765,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3,1],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1764","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine","category-wine-review-by-winefolio"],"yoast_head":"\nKumeu River 2019 Chardonnay releases - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1764\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Kumeu River 2019 Chardonnay releases - 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