{"id":1667,"date":"2020-06-28T02:56:47","date_gmt":"2020-06-28T02:56:47","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1667"},"modified":"2020-06-28T18:57:49","modified_gmt":"2020-06-28T18:57:49","slug":"winemaker-series-sam-harrop","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1667","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Sam Harrop"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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Today’s instalment in our readers’ favourite series of interviews with New Zealand winemakers; takes us in the direction of Waiheke Island, where one of our Masters of Wine, Sam Harrop<\/strong>, is based. Intense and passionate on many subjects, we try to keep the subject to wine – for this chat at least..<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: I read your blog \u2013 it\u2019s excellent!<\/p>

Sam Harrop<\/strong>: Yes, I do a bit of writing. I find you have to be so disciplined. I\u2019ve got three full time jobs, two young kids; but writing is one of my passions. I have to sit down on a Saturday morning and nail it, alas I don\u2019t do as much as I should!<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I also read your biography \u2013 you sound like someone who has a business edge to their work. A lot of winemakers I\u2019ve met are quite artisan, or artistic \u2013 but you sound like you have the business acumen side too \u2013 is that a fair analysis?<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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SH<\/strong>: I\u2019ve made a career as a consultant out of trying to bridge winemaking and business. So many winemakers around the world are very much production led. Many of these winemakers are making wine styles for their own palates, without giving enough consideration to what their market might want.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: So, is that a New Zealand thing?<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: It\u2019s an extremely fragmented industry. And it\u2019s a low-profit industry, a very emotive industry. While NZ is better than most at looking to the market\u2019s needs, we still have to get better.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: I\u2019ve done a certain amount of work around \u2018art\u2019 \u2013 when I was in Bristol I met and talked to Banksy, and I\u2019ve seen the \u2019Shark in a tank\u2019 artwork. Why is it art \u2013 because someone said it was!<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: The boundary between art and craft is blurred. I prefer to use the term \u2018craft\u2019 when it comes to winemaking. It\u2019s been there forever in Europe \u2013 one generation to the next. The best of these winemakers, are true highly skilled craftsmen. New Zealand has a brief winemaking history, compared to the rest of the world and its really encouraging that there is a strong and vibrant fraternity of winemakers professionally embracing a craft ideology. Of course, the backbone of our industry is focused on commodity products and primarily out of Marlborough.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I was just down in Central, and I was surprised how small that was \u2013 you go to Bannockburn and it\u2019s forty small vineyards. But you go to Yealands in the Awatere Valley, and its vines as far as the eye can see, and mostly one variety.<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: But there is arguably a commodity business in Central for the cheaper Pinot Noir. Rabbit Ranch, Squealing Pig etc. There are decent sized wineries that are processing wine for different segments. There are businesses in Marlborough bringing in central fruit and using technology and scale to make more commodity like products from this region. There\u2019s nothing wrong with that and we can\u2019t lose sight of the fact that the craft sector of our industry has benefited from the trailblazing work of the larger producers. Without successful commercial operators taking their wines to the world stage, there would certainly be fewer smaller producers in New Zealand today.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The reason I wanted to bridge technical and marketing was because I saw an opportunity. When I started in the early 90\u2019s, very few wineries took a professional approach to marketing wine and selling wine. I worked at Villa Maria<\/em> and Esk Valley<\/em>, and then I went to work at Littoral Wines<\/em> in Napa Valley \u2013 a niche, boutique producer. Then I went to Rosemount<\/em> in the Hunter Valley \u2013 to get a broad experience in a number of segments – from one extreme to the other! After that I went and worked as a winemaker for the UK retailer Marks and Spencer<\/em>. I was there for seven years. I was spending 120-150 days a year travelling and while I made some wines with some of our supplier wineries, I was mostly blending, consulting and providing ideas as to how to improve their wine for our consumers. Small, medium and larger sized wineries, but with a real focus on quality \u2013 and importantly value – whatever the price point.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I did my Masters of Wine whilst I was there and qualified in 2003. In 2004 after 7 years at M and S, I decided to leave . I set up a winery in Roussillon \u2013 put my life savings into a little start-up with a school friend. It\u2019s now considered to be a top winery in Southern France. In 2004 I decided to consult to not only pay the bills, but I wanted to work on medium-sized wineries and in regions that were under performing but had great potential. I wanted to be able to add value and to help these struggling wineries, their regions and their communities succeed long term.<\/p>

At the same time, I became Chairman of the International Wine Challenge<\/strong>. I was there twelve years \u2013 I started a sake category! I co-wrote a book with Jamie Goode<\/strong>, called \u2018Authentic Wine<\/em>\u2019, made some really serious English still wines over that period in London, among other things. So, I\u2019ve done all sorts of things really.<\/p>

I came back to New Zealand in 2013 with my young family. Over this time, I started tasting the likes of Kumeu River, Clearview, Trinity Hill \u2018Homage\u2019, Ata Rangi, Dry River, Felton Road and many others. I was blown away by how much these premium wine styles had improved over the 15 years I had been away. Many of these wines were as good, if not better than, the very best of Europe. It changed my view of premium New Zealand wine, and inspired me into making my own Chardonnay and Syrahs – originally from Waiheke fruit. I then branched out and I\u2019m now making wines in Hawke\u2019s Bay. All the wines are single vineyard and I make around 8000 bottles a year – 9 different cuvees.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The project was about re-invigorating my passion to continue to learn and to provide a platform to express my winemaking ideology.<\/p>

I work towards expressing a true sense of place in my wines. I like to term this process \u2018sympathetic winemaking<\/strong>\u2019. For me SW is where intuition and methodology meet. Respecting the role of science, but also respecting the power of intuition in your efforts to reflect the vineyard in the glass.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: Any other beliefs that you have that you put into your winemaking?<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: I believe in adding yeasts. I want that control \u2013 that methodology. If you give up complete control of the most important part of the winemaking process \u2013 the fermentation \u2013 to an unkown yeast strain, it\u2019s hard to know what you are going to end up with.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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I have consulted to Lallemand<\/em> \u2013 the most dynamic yeast and bacteria producing company in the world \u2013 for many years and through this experience I have learned a great deal about the role of microbes in winemaking. I don\u2019t like to move my wines much. I try not to use much \u2018new and \/or toasty\u2019 oak. I believe in picking when the grapes are ripe, not over ripe (like so many in the market). I don\u2019t like to add anything to the wine that is unnecessary. I ADD SO2 to preserve and stabilise my wines, but I do not add much. Minimal, but controlled intervention is my motto. This is NOT natural wine (where the wine is left to pretty much make itself). If the wine is to reflect a place and to improve with age for many years, some level of control at critical points in the process – is needed.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: So, the wild yeast from the site might be at odds with your personal interpretation? But if the yeast is \u2018of the place\u2019 why not trust that?<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: Absolutely \u2013 that\u2019s fine, and I have made wines with spontaneous fermentations \u2013 but I don\u2019t call them \u2018wines of site\u2019, I call them \u2018wines of style\u2019. You know the flinty character you get in Chardonnays that have gone through a spontaneous fermentation? It comes from a struggling yeast. Now you can get that from a yeast that you\u2019ve inoculated with if you want\u2013 it depends how you manage the fermentation. What\u2019s the addition rate; consider the nitrogen levels; fermentation temperature etc; \u2013 all these variables are critical. A spontaneous ferment usually starts with an ambient yeast in the winery. Many talk of a yeast coming in from the vineyard \u2013 it is possible, but most of the studies show that the population of\u00a0Saccharomyces\u00a0cerevisiae\u00a0(the yeast responsible for fermenting wine to dryness, is not easy to find in the vineyard). They prefer to live in the winery.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The non-saccharomyces yeasts in the vineyard, vary considerably from year to year. The strains and the species present in any given year, will be impacted by the climate of the growing season. It\u2019s survival of the fittest. These non sacch yeasts can, and do add weight, high levels of esters and can provide more complexity to the aromatic profile. But note, that if sulphur is added at juice stage as it so often is, then a reasonable population of the non-sacch yeasts from the vineyard are killed and the ferment that starts from spontaneous means is likely to be from sacch yeasts that live in the winery, not the vineyard. Is the winery part of the terroir?\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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That\u2019s an interesting question! When I was studying for Masters of Wine, I went to many Burgundy tastings and the winemakers would say \u201cthe flinty character in their wines was terroir\u201d. My view for what it is worth, is that this is just not the case. It\u2019s a yeast-stress character, not an expression of site! \u00a0So, I choose a yeast strain that will do the job, give me a chance to reflect some of the aromas, textural aspects that I see when I sit in the vineyard and taste the fruit at harvest. I want the consumer to experience the unique characteristics of the vineyard, not the unique characteristics of wild or struggling microbe.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: As an experienced wine judge, how do you reconcile the awards you might give to certain wines that are so young.<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: It\u2019s such a hugely complicated and confusing world for wine drinkers. I reconcile it by saying \u201cthis is what\u2019s on the market, let\u2019s try to find the best wines submitted into the competition and to help consumers buy great wines, whatever the price, so you can get more pleasure out of this wonderful beverage\u201d. It doesn\u2019t mean the winning wines aren\u2019t going to get better! On the contrary. Most wines that win awards are going to improve with age. So\u2026. put them down in your cellar (if you are lucky enough to have one) for a few years to see how they improve.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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SH<\/strong>: Here\u2019s a question: What\u2019s your definition of Quality in wine? It could be price \u2013 higher price or lower price?<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: A satisfying taste?<\/p>

SH<\/strong>: Yes, that\u2019s the core one for me \u2013 it has to make you satisfied.<\/p>

I\u2019d add another one \u2013 it has to be fault-free. Which is of course linked to that taste, but it a wine should be technically sound. That\u2019s the most basic level of quality to me, but it\u2019s amazing how many faulty wines are in the marketplace. Another parameter I use to define quality is \u2018context\u2019. Where is this wine from? Who is the winemaker? How old are the vines? Soil type? Quality of the vintage? Having this kind of information can help you understand and appreciate the wine more. Ideology is another parameter some consumers \/ experts find important when assessing quality. What was the winemaking trying to achieve with his\/her winemaking? Like art theory, I guess. Not everyone is interested in the intellectual side of wine appreciation and for sure to most people the key factor is taste. Is the wine tasty? If you don\u2019t want to dig into these more philosophical notions of quality, that\u2019s ok, but I do think it\u2019s really important for all wine drinkers to be mindful when they consume. Wine is not just \u2018another\u2019 alcoholic beverage. It\u2019s a very special one and trying to be mindful when you consume, will hopefully allow you to enjoy the drinking experience more.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Today’s instalment in our readers’ favourite series of interviews with New Zealand winemakers; takes us in the direction of Waiheke Island, where one of our Masters of Wine, Sam Harrop, … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1668,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1667","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Sam Harrop - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1667\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Sam Harrop - 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