{"id":1622,"date":"2020-06-14T05:54:14","date_gmt":"2020-06-14T05:54:14","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1622"},"modified":"2020-06-14T06:15:27","modified_gmt":"2020-06-14T06:15:27","slug":"winemaker-series-jamie-marfell","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1622","title":{"rendered":"Winemaker series: Jamie Marfell"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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WineFolio is back amongst it with another in our most popular series where we meet New Zealand’s winemaking talent. Today, we’re reporting in from \u00a0Pernod Ricard, the home of Brancott Estate and Stoneleigh amongst others, to meet Chief Winemaker – Jamie Marfell<\/strong>. A note – this was from a visit to Marlborough pre-COVID-19.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WineFolio<\/strong>: We had time this morning, so went for drive over to Yealands. Wow \u2013 vines as far as the eye can see! But beautiful landscape too, and loved the drive around. Huge though! This looks like a big facility here though too?<\/p>

Jamie Marfell<\/strong>: We do lots \u2013 because we\u2019re across quite a few brands. We\u2019d be going about three million plus cases a year. We\u2019re still very strong domestically \u2013 the old Montana<\/strong> portfolio\u2026 we\u2019ve still got Stoneleigh<\/strong> and those brands that are still doing really well for us. Montana is still one of the largest brands in New Zealand \u2013 with Sauvignon Blanc and people still drinking Montana.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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It\u2019s funny that I\u2019ve got that old blazer here (on the rack is hanging an old school style blazer) because one of the guys here, Eddie Frost, retired last year. And that was his original jacket \u2013 back in the day we had one jacket to share! You\u2019d go to dinner and share the jacket.<\/p>

We\u2019ve got wines and spirits in our portfolio \u2013 including the likes of Jacob\u2019s Creek<\/strong>. We\u2019re in supermarkets, but we have a bit of fine wine as well \u2013 it\u2019s broad. In Hawke\u2019s Bay we\u2019ve got Church Road<\/strong>, then Marlborough and two hundred hectares in Waipara too. We\u2019re one of the largest producers down there. We\u2019ve got the Camshorn<\/strong> label which has taken off in Australia.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Ros\u00e9 is quite the business now too?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: Yes it is, and it\u2019s still growing \u2013 as a percentage of the business. It\u2019s interesting to see it grow \u2013 it\u2019s just sneaked past Pinot Gris I think. It\u2019s not trend, more like a solid category \u2013 sales of something like Jacob\u2019s Creek ros\u00e9s are through the roof. Sav Blanc has stopped growing so much \u2013 not flat-lining yet, and I\u2019m not sure if ros\u00e9 is taking away from it. It sits in that aperitif category \u2013 light, fresh, real vibrant, not too sweet or too dry \u2013 just beautiful, and a nice wine. We have blocks set aside to make rose. We\u2019re taking our red wines up to 23.5 to 24, but we\u2019re seriously looking at them at 21 to 22. Personally I\u2019d still want the alcohol to be around 12.5 to 13 \u2013 you need that alcohol sweetness that delivers. If you go a bit mean, the wines tend to be bright but without that textual interest. Most of our ros\u00e9s sit around the 4.5 to 5.5 grams of sugar; just off the palate \u2013 soft and bright and fresh.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Are you doing anything in the zero alcohol area?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: Globally it\u2019s a thing we\u2019re looking at at the moment, but we\u2019ve got nothing on the market right now. We\u2019re at that 9% but haven\u2019t moved into that zero alcohol space. Our cask wine sits at 5% and has done for years and years. We\u2019ve been tasting for the last 2-3 years, and watching the movement.\u00a0<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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But you\u2019ve got to be comfortable that you can produce something which is representative of Marlborough, and New Zealand and put our hand on heart and say \u2018this is just as good, if not better than the classic 13%\u2019. You could do a lot of damage to your reputation if you\u2019re not delivering that.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: I think Giesen are going to show me their 0% later today, it will be interesting to see what it is like.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you still make wine? Chief winemaker \u2013 its not all just meetings and spreadsheets?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: No, still heavily involved – think it\u2019s important. I go to vineyards \u2013 was out there this morning, and tomorrow we\u2019ll be out making decisions with the guys. I think it\u2019s important not to get yourself too far removed. I can\u2019t carry the title and then not do it. We also need to bring the young guys through \u2013 we\u2019ve got a couple of young winemakers in their 20s and we just need to feed as much information as possible into them. You have to see stuff. Taste stuff. It\u2019s hard to put a measure on how valuable that is. I\u2019m quite visual, so I like to see it, and talk about it.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: And do you see it as scientific or creative?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: It\u2019s always going to be a combination I think, because you lay the groundwork with the science \u2013 the testing of the fruit will give you an idea of what you\u2019re getting; but then the creative part of when you see it, feel it, touch it\u2026 there\u2019s always that aspect to it. It\u2019s like talking about terroir \u2013 people underestimate terroir.<\/p>

Also, the way we make wine here in Marlborough \u2013 the people, the age of the industry – has quite an influence in the style of wine we make. We\u2019re gifted with beautiful weather and great soils but the people side of it is really important. The innovations and how we make our wines is really important. You work to your environment, so in North Canterbury or Central \u2013 the way you make it is different. We do \u2018Last Shepherd<\/strong>\u2019 Pinot Noir, and it\u2019s quite a big Pinot Noir – about 15,000 cases, so it\u2019s a good size. But you actually have to be down there \u2013 see it, touch it and then talk to the people and understand how they\u2019re doing it. You get a feel and it\u2019s a different thought pattern about how you make Pinot Noir in Central Otago. And Waipara is completely different again.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: That\u2019s an almost European method of thinking about it. Rather than say \u201cI\u2019ll take this fruit and follow a recipe\u201d<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: I was just down in Waipara on Friday and a lot of our Pinot there is un-irrigated. It\u2019s been a bloody dry year there, so the berries are tiny. But the philosophy is completely different. Waipara is quite unique, and for us it\u2019s similar to Martinborough \u2013 we see the fruit from both, and they\u2019ve both got very similar styles. But don\u2019t underestimate the people factor \u2013 the creative aspect.<\/p>

WF<\/strong>: is there a point during the year where you just get \u201ca feeling\u201d?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: You look in the vineyards for the first time and think \u2018here we go\u2019. Once you get to veraison right now, you start seeing stuff and touching it. My Eureka moment is \u2013 and it brings me back to why we do this \u2013 just after ferment\u2019s finished when you kind of think you know what you\u2019re doing, and all of a sudden the wine gives back to you a little bit. Maybe it delivers more than you expect, and \u2018oh didn\u2019t see that coming\u2019? You get a kick out of what you\u2019re getting. You always like to think you make the right decision at the right time, to make the right wine. There\u2019s a lot of people though, and little things \u2013 like making sure the water goes on at the right time \u2013 that add up to the big picture stuff.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you have to make tough decisions in terms of what goes in where?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: No, not really. We know what we have to make, so basically you go by the numbers. I\u2019ve got a big spreadsheet that tells me \u2018you need to make so much Sav Blanc\u2019. Then you\u2019ve got all your tops and bottoms \u2013 top-end single vineyards, and wild-fermented for example. And we tend to make \u201cup\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Do you have plans for anything else like a real belter of a wine \u2013 for example Chris makes the \u201cTom\u201d over at Church Road?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: We\u2019ve got the \u2018Chosen Rows<\/strong>\u2019 Sav Blanc \u2013 that sells for $100. That\u2019s the top tier of Brancott. And we are about to release a top Chardonnay and Pinot Noir for Stoneleigh at the end of this year. \u2018Chosen Rows\u2019 was first done in 2010 and we\u2019ve thought about the Stoneleigh ones for the last four years. Interesting, Chris will be picking up an award we\u2019ve won for our bubbles at the Easter Show \u2013 because we\u2019ll all be working.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: What do you think Climate Change has in store for the New Zealand wine industry?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: I think we\u2019ll be less affected than most. The sea around us will be a buffer to some of it. Probably more seasonal changes than overall change in higher temperatures, and the dynamics will be more chaotic \u2013 more cyclones.. We kind of had that the last couple of years. I\u2019ve been making wine since 1990 and we just don\u2019t see this stuff \u2013 it\u2019s kind of weird. It could be the new norm, where we just have to be very aware. In New Zealand winegrowers, everyone\u2019s talking about climate change and sustainable wine \u2013 it\u2019s all part of it. We\u2019re weather experts you know! I don\u2019t think we\u2019ll be pulling out Sav Blanc and planting Semillon. Although \u2013 it might turn up back here \u2013 we might get it ripe for a change!<\/p>

We are still less than one per cent of the world\u2019s production. The world might change around us, which then affects our business. That might be a bigger factor to New Zealand. Even if, in Australia, it gets too hot to grow Chardonnay or even Shiraz any more \u2013 that has a big effect on us. The types of wines coming in might change; prices might go up – the dynamics might change. Five years ago, Giesen putting out a no-alcohol wine \u2013 they wouldn\u2019t have thought about it. All the wines from this winery here, in 2020, are completely vegan \u2013 three years ago I wasn\u2019t talking about being a vegan winery. People say \u201cSustainable \u2013 yes, Vegan \u2013 yes; so can you be 100% Organic?\u201d And we\u2019re like \u2018hang on!\u2019 But that\u2019s today \u2013 in ten years time it wouldn\u2019t surprise me.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF:<\/strong>\u00a0But New Zealand wine is in an exciting phase, so whilst you\u2019re in this development, you may as well feed some of those things in at in at the same time? If you were just standing still, you might say, well, no. But there\u2019s this massive growth. Central Otago Pinot, I think, now stands up there with Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc as, now, two great types of New Zealand wine. And I think the two next things will be Sparkling, and then, Chardonnay \u2013 that also become identifiably New Zealand iconic wine styles.<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: We\u2019ve been planting Chardonnay and focussing on it for four or five years. If you want to be taken it seriously as a brand, then you need a top Chardonnay. It\u2019s been a huge focus, and now we\u2019ve had Trophy-winning wines. The same with bubbles \u2013 we\u2019ve got Deutz Petit Cordon<\/strong>, and we haven\u2019t really changed much there in philosophy.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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The winery got quite heavily damaged in the earthquake. It\u2019s the oldest winery in Marlborough and a lot of the tanks were relocated from Auckland, and a large percentage of the tanks had some kind of damage after the earthquake. So, we\u2019ve rebuilt nearly the whole winery to a point where it\u2019s resilient for earthquakes. And the other thing is \u2013 Health and Safety said \u201cIf we had that earthquake during the day with staff around, we probably would have lost lives\u201d. Basically the tanks were collapsing; catwalks were collapsing on top of tanks. So in rebuilding it, we wanted to take that whole Health and safety risk out of it. We\u2019re doing away completely with catwalks. What we\u2019ve developed is Smart Tanks and taken away the requirement to go to the top of a tank. Put in automation in different forms, and that allows us to get to the top of the tank. Putting wine over the top, washing over the top, and additions over the top \u2013 everything you\u2019d normally do, but using technology.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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WF<\/strong>: Is one of the reasons that New Zealand wine has got so good, so quickly, because we use the technology?<\/p>

JM<\/strong>: We\u2019re moving to automated valves, to automate processes and minimal risk \u2013 so we can hook this up to crossflows for example, and it\u2019s all above your head, not under your feet. We\u2019ve got fixed lines everywhere with short hose lengths going up to a centre pivot, so to hook up a job and get it going takes one person. We\u2019ve also had to do things like re-do foundations, chop the bottom off tanks, and this is the first year we\u2019ve actually had everything working for a change. A fully fitted-out, operational winery, which has all the gear, the bells and whistles \u2013 it\u2019s quite exciting.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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With our large format oak \u2013 we\u2019ve got a lot of puncheons and lots of cuves. We use large format oak for our Sav Blancs \u2013 like our Rapaura series. Deutz Petit Cordon<\/strong>, we do fermentation in these. 100% of the Chosen Row<\/strong>s goes into this \u2013 hand-picked, whole bunch pressed, no sulphur, wild fermented in these. Our Rapaura series<\/strong> Pinot Gris goes in here \u2013 we\u2019re starting to push that more into the richer Alsatian style. All our Pinots are wild fermented now and most of our Chardonnay and Pinot Gris. We\u2019re doing bigger and bigger volumes; demand for that is amazing and growing. We\u2019ll have about 300 different ferments going this year.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

WineFolio is back amongst it with another in our most popular series where we meet New Zealand’s winemaking talent. Today, we’re reporting in from \u00a0Pernod Ricard, the home of Brancott … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":1624,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[7],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-1622","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-interviews-with-nz-winemakers"],"yoast_head":"\nWinemaker series: Jamie Marfell - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1622\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Winemaker series: Jamie Marfell - WineFolio\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"WineFolio is back amongst it with another in our most popular series where we meet New Zealand’s winemaking talent. 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