{"id":14729,"date":"2026-05-16T09:18:07","date_gmt":"2026-05-15T21:18:07","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=14729"},"modified":"2026-05-16T09:18:07","modified_gmt":"2026-05-15T21:18:07","slug":"tasting-through-barrels-with-brett-bermingham","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=14729","title":{"rendered":"Tasting through barrels, with Brett Bermingham"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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On my trip to the Tasman region I caught up with one of the winemakers at Gravity Cellars<\/b>, Brett Bermingham<\/b>, and had the most enjoyable hour tasting through barrels, and having a mini blending session with the different Pinots that they work with in the winery. Normally I\u2019d put a catch up with a winemaker into the WineFolio \u2018Winemaker Series\u2019 but I didn\u2019t really interview Brett – it was very much a cruise around the barrels, with conversation as we went.<\/p>

As we venture down to the barrel hall Brett tells me: \u201cI can show you a few out of barrels – you\u2019ll definitely start to see the sub-regions. A journey through Central Otago, in Nelson!\u201d We start with a Gibbston Pinot.<\/p>

Brett reckons \u201cIt is really good to blend with a new block for our Central Otago program – Lowburn. The clones are 5, 667, 114 and 115, 10\/5 and Abel – a little half hectare of each. They are younger vines and if I was a betting man I think this will work its way through to the next wine up quite quickly\u201d.<\/p>

This sample is quite pungent – there\u2019s no holding back on this. A touch of reduction lurking in there, but also some very pretty aromatics and it reminds me of blood orange. There\u2019s also some savoury elements, good complexity and it is quite minerally. The \u2018M\u2019 word! I like the tart fruit upfront and then it settles down and floods the palate.<\/p>

They also take fruit from Bendigo – a vineyard I visited on my first trip to Central Otago. Brett says \u201cI\u2019m pleased we\u2019re making wines off that vineyard because I like all the Bendigo wines. From here we pretty much get mostly Clone 5. I\u2019ll show you a couple of the Clone 5s because they could almost be from different locations, but they\u2019re not! This first one is about 30% whole bunch. And I\u2019m a big believer in post ferment maceration\u00a0 <\/span>– you get extra layers of extraction (rather than alcohol).<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I mention that I\u2019d chatted to winemakers about post-fermentation soaks before, and doesn\u2019t that do something to the tannins as well? Brett explains \u201cYou do get a different tannin. You\u2019ve got the tannin macerating out during the plunging, that is coming from the skins. And then with ten days at post, you\u2019ve got the ethanol, and it\u2019s a different tannin. It can fill in the gaps sometimes. I\u2019m plunging less during ferment. But we have some concrete tanks up there that are amazing – they stay 30 degrees for days and days. And I taste it, taste it, taste it – then press it!<\/p>

This is a yeast called RC212 – which is the stalwart of New Zealand Pinot yeast. It has been problematic – sometimes it just doesn\u2019t like fermenting. But I learnt that if you feed it enough nutrients then it gets the job done. It brings a brightness to it. And the yeast we\u2019ll look at next is more about extracting tannin from the fruit\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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It seems so different that I have to ask – \u2018Are you sure that\u2019s the same fruit?\u2019 and Brett assures me \u201cYes. Crazy isn\u2019t it? In a cool year I\u2019ll use this yeast. I\u2019m really excited to show this to the other winemakers. We\u2019ve got about 200 barrels of Pinot and I need forty for our Goldfields which is our second label. I\u2019ll take this, which is about 24 barrels, and then we\u2019ll find some mates – maybe some Lowburn and some Gibbston. But we\u2019ll challenge that on the day. I do have some preconceptions!\u201d<\/p>

The next glass I get comes from Bendigo again, and using the same yeast as I\u2019ve got in the glass now. But now it is three different clones of Pinot. This mix gets a little bit less whole bunch – around 15%. The Clone 5 has a much broader tannin profile than the 155 and the 667. It feels so different.<\/p>

Brett is keen on his trials – he tells me: \u201cI\u2019ve got another yeast trial – I seem to have thousands, but I\u2019m pretty committed to it. This one is made by the same company of that one before, and it comes from just north of Pompeii? And it\u2019s called \u2018Volcano\u2019! You don\u2019t need any nutrients – you literally just pour it into the fermenter\u201d.<\/p>

I comment that \u201cThis one has a compelling nose\u2026 I could smell it all day!\u201d I like this one a lot. I notice that it is a Sylvain barrel that I would typically associate with Bordeaux. Brett confirms: \u201cYes, if you went on a trip to Bordeaux, you\u2019d see a lot of those. The burgundy barrels add sweetness, but these add structure. Try this – same wine, different cooper – Rousseau. I love these – mostly because Frederic Rousseau came out for ten years – knocking on the door, knocking on the door\u2026 until one day he said \u2018I will give you one!\u2019 He still comes out and tastes wines with us – it\u2019s a cool part of it\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I agree, because to me (with an outsider\u2019s perspective) it is an artisan, hand-crafted process – and to have that connection is important. Brett is keen to push further and tells me \u201cI\u2019ll show you some winemaking next. What I discovered is that if you take one of each\u2026 one plus one equals three. Because we have great options. If you only have a single vineyard you don\u2019t necessarily get that. I say \u2018If it tastes right, it is right\u2019. End of story. I mean that\u2019s the Champagne model, right?\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

One of the reasons I moved here was Chardonnay! What I want to show you is one wine that you wouldn\u2019t have seen going round with Sammy – the Waimea Chardonnay 2024. You\u2019re going to be the first visitor to have this.\u00a0<\/span><\/p>

Waimea Chardonnay is from old vine Mendoza, plus clone 548 which is the new selection from Burgundy. The total blend was about 8000 litres. All fermented in puncheon with 10% new oak. It tasted so delicious that three quarters of the way through malo I sulphured the wine, just to leave a bit of juiciness to it. I learnt that a couple of years ago – that retaining a bit of malic with this gives it more persistence\u201d.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Not wanting to sound like a stuck record, but I\u2019m also a fan of that. I like Chardonnay to have a bit of zip. I don\u2019t like wines that don\u2019t go anywhere or have nothing to say. I do note though that there seems, to me, to be less bad wines around than there used to be. Still lots that are just \u2018OK\u2019, but less genuinely faulty rubbish around now. Brett\u2019s last comment is \u201cThat\u2019s true. So, how did you enjoy that trip around the barrels?<\/p>

As far as I\u2019m concerned, it started off well, and then just got stupidly good. I am full of admiration for the vision you need to look at those parcels and individual barrels, and be able to see the blends in there. Adding an extra wine to the glass – it didn\u2019t just double – it took a step sideways and morphed into something else. My number one rule is \u201cis it delicious?\u2019 The art of the blend – it was a real eye opener.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

On my trip to the Tasman region I caught up with one of the winemakers at Gravity Cellars, Brett Bermingham, and had the most enjoyable hour tasting through barrels, and … <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":14730,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_jetpack_memberships_contains_paid_content":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[3],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-14729","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-writing-about-wine"],"yoast_head":"\nTasting through barrels, with Brett Bermingham - WineFolio<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=14729\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Tasting through barrels, with Brett Bermingham - 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