{"id":1163,"date":"2020-05-02T06:39:57","date_gmt":"2020-05-02T06:39:57","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1163"},"modified":"2020-05-02T06:47:36","modified_gmt":"2020-05-02T06:47:36","slug":"gary-crabbe-viticulturist","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/winefolio.co.nz\/?p=1163","title":{"rendered":"Gary Crabbe, Viticulturist"},"content":{"rendered":"\t\t
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A beautiful late summer afternoon in Bannockburn, WineFolio caught up with one of Central’s great characters – viticulture guru, Gary Crabbe<\/strong>. We stroll around the Bald Hills<\/strong> vineyard on Cornish Point Rd.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Tell me what this is all about \u2013 what are the keys things at play here?\u00a0<\/strong>It really starts from all the soils. These soils were crushed by the glaciers and broken down and made into a fine powder. You can actually see that glacial powder in the lakes \u2013 it makes the blue colour \u2013 a glacial flour almost. We don\u2019t have so much Quartz here (at Bald Hills vineyard) \u2013 that comes off the schist rocks and more prevalent along the Felton Road. This was an old river through here \u2013 and you can imagine the volume of water once the glaciers melted. But this is all wind-blown crushed-up glacial rock, blown down the lake.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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All of Cromwell is sitting on a big piece of sand \u2013 that\u2019s why it dries out, so you see Cromwell yellow and you go \u201cit\u2019s kind of rained?<\/em>\u201d. But the minute it dries out, it dries out really quickly; and it\u2019s the same issue here. What we need to do here is put life into the soil in order to hold the moisture and to promote the roots to go and explore.<\/p>

So my primary philosophy is – there\u2019s biodynamics \u2013 but I believe in the soil food web and we test all the soils to look for the life in it. The microbes, the nematodes; we even dig up and count our earthworms and all the rest of it.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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What we do is get a specific compost tea brewed by a lovely lady in Wanaka, and she will formulate the brew and we\u2019ll spray this on in springtime, to help explore the soils. All the goodies and microbes will get in there and down underneath. That will help the plants become more efficient and it will help raise the organic matter in the soil.<\/p>

That\u2019s the first step. Then we add lots of fish and lots of food for it, because the biological life loves fish. That\u2019s a great food for them. And we use molasses too, surprisingly.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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And seaweed too?\u00a0<\/strong>Seaweed I generally do foliar. Every spray I\u2019ll put some seaweed on it, and it just gets a little, but often. You can\u2019t dump stuff on, because it just won\u2019t hold \u2013 just washes through. Little and often. Every time we go for a foliar spray, we just put a little seaweed on, and continuously do that. We go through 300 litres. That\u2019s the idea to keep the leaves healthy, but I\u2019ve really got to get to that soil \u2013 get the life in the soil.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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There have been a lot of innovators here. Felton Road was an innovator, and there\u2019s a big network of organic growers and we work collectively. Talk about soils, cover crops and how we can grow without chemical inputs. That\u2019s what we\u2019ve been stressing.<\/p>

All we can do is keep lifting our game as best possible. There\u2019s a sense that we expect higher and higher standards and we\u2019re sharing amongst each other. I don\u2019t see anyone else as competition \u2013 the only competition is to make a better wine.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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We can run out of water here – when it\u2019s high 30s we actually don\u2019t quite have enough water. We\u2019re getting a little bit more from the council, but we\u2019re right at the edge of what we\u2019re able to do. So if I can get something in the soil to help the water holding capacity then I don\u2019t need to water as much; it becomes more efficient for the vines. It\u2019s a long term plan what we\u2019re trying to achieve.\u00a0<\/p>

But what we also do is we have an under-vine weeding system. What it is, is there\u2019s a slasher that comes and cuts underneath, and basically gets the majority of the weeds. A big problem is lucerne \u2013 this used to be planted in it. We can get to the mallow, but if you don\u2019t get every lucerne root, it comes back again. But it does help fix nitrogen, so it\u2019s a double-edged sword. It steals your water, but it gives you a bit of nitrogen.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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What do you think Climate Change has in store for us?\u00a0<\/strong>We\u2019re pushing ten days earlier I would think and I\u2019ve been here since the 90s. It\u2019s helping some of the cooler regions; but in 2018 when we had that intense heat we had the same GGDs as Hawke\u2019s bay. We harvested 3.5 weeks earlier. I fear if we have another year like that \u2013 we\u2019ll have Hawke\u2019s Bay Pinot. It\u2019ll be lighter in colour, didn\u2019t have the intensity that the cooler years have. \u201915 was a cool year \u2013 excellent \u2013 \u201917 the same. It used to be the hot years were the great years! Especially in the evenings there seems to be more heat, retained, and that\u2019s degrading our assets and our aromatic profile. That\u2019s a real concern. I do live in Gibbston \u2013 so maybe that\u2019s the right spot (just kidding).<\/em><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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I can adjust the amount of leaf cover on. If we have a hot year like that, I\u2019m going to leave more leaves on. It\u2019s a minor thing we can do. It worries me. The amount of water is finite. If I can get the soils in a good condition then I can use less water. I try to increase the carbon content of the soil because the soil is the best sink of carbon. If you are continuously growing and taking carbon out of the system and putting them into the leaves, then you\u2019ve got to put carbon back into the system. The soil is the best carbon sink you can get.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t

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\u00a0We\u2019re getting close to nets \u2013 normally we\u2019d be netted by now. We\u2019re two weeks behind this season. We have this heat now, but we had a very cool December and early January. Not massive bunches – this is quite small for us but then I\u2019m hoping that this year there will be some intensity in that.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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Is Central Otago Pinot now it\u2019s own thing \u2013 has it come of age?\u00a0<\/strong>We\u2019ll never be Burgundy. It used to be considered the benchmark and that\u2019s where you\u2019re going to set your standard by. But it\u2019s not \u2013 it\u2019s different. And the price should be based upon quality. I was over in Burgundy recently and it was so different that I couldn\u2019t feel it was in competition. We had a lot to learn, from an organic profile, marketing ideas and all the rest of it. But we\u2019re in a different game. There was harvesting in thunderstorms \u2013 the hand sorting of berries was amazing. They do have a lot to teach us, I believe. The sorting they do within the winery was quite extraordinary.<\/p>

I like the idea of letting the guys pick in the field – come 2.30 the days over and let\u2019s go to the winery \u2013 we\u2019re going to hand sort everything. I\u2019ve got a friend Michel Mallard \u2013 he\u2019s got a family winery in the Corton area – and they go through all the pickers \u2013 then it goes to the winemaker, and then it goes to the father. And the last, before it comes off the end of the conveyor belt \u2013 is the grandfather! That\u2019s quality control! And it\u2019s a connection.<\/p>

At Bald Hills we\u2019ve got Japanese owners, and they don\u2019t see things as a quick profit in this generation. They look at four generations down the line, and getting the right people.<\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t

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They give me a pretty good sense of freedom as long as I win them trophies!<\/strong><\/p>\t\t\t\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t<\/section>\n\t\t\t\t<\/div>\n\t\t","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

A beautiful late summer afternoon in Bannockburn, WineFolio caught up with one of Central’s great characters – viticulture guru, Gary Crabbe. 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